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GARDEN' I NG* 
eiFFIGULTIES 
SOLVED 




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Gardening difficulties solved.Expert ans 



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Plants need a complete food. During the growing season 
Soluble Manures should be used ; in winter, slow-acting, Insoluble 
Manures can be provided for the plant's future use. The pro- 
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gardeners sometimes get unsatisfactory results. 

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Recognising that the ideal garden of one per-son maybe widely different from that of another, 
the author has appealed to many and diverse tastes. The following are the subjects of a few 
of the chapters — Roses, Carnal ions all the Year Round, Sweet Peas, Garden Planning, A 
Garden of Flowers from Seed, Gardening in Walls, A Garden of Heather, Flowers that are 
Fragrant, The Fruit Garden, The Dutch Garden, The Paved Garden. There are full 
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GARDENING DIFFICULTIES SOLVED 




THE MOUNTAIN CLEMATIS (CLEMATIS JtONTANA) ON A COTTAGE 

IN YORKSHIRE. TO PRUNE, CUT OUT 8t)J[E OF THE OLD SHOOTS 

AS SOON AS THE FLOWERS ARE OVER. 



Gardening Difficulties 

Solved. Expert Answers 
to Amateurs' Questions 



, Edited by 

H. H. THOMAS 

Author of " Little Gardens,'' "Sweet Peas and How to Grow Them,' 
etc. etc. 



WITH NUMEROUS ILLUSTRATIONS FROM 
PHOTOGRAPHS AND SKETCHES 



CASSELL AND COMPANY, LTD. 

London, New York, Toronto and Melbourne 
1910 




ALL RIGHTS RF-SEHVED 



PREFACE 

It is commonly acknowledged that the Questions and Answers 
columns of a gardening paper contain information that is in- 
valuable to its readers generally. The questions are asked by 
amateurs and answered by experts. The replies are useful 
not only to the actual inquirers but to all amateurs, for the 
trials and troubles of one inexperienced gardener are very 
similar to those of another. Thus the suggestion that a care- 
ful selection of Questions and Answers fi-om the columns of 
The Gardener would be welcomed in book form was not 
made without good grounds. This suggestion prompted the 
preparation of "Gardening Difficulties Solved." 

The information given in the following pages is practical 
and to the point, and, it is hoped, will meet all ordinary 
difficulties that confront the possessor of a garden. The 
questions have actually been asked by amateurs, so that the 
troubles they voice are real. Since conditions of climate 
influence gardening work to a considerable degree, the district 
from which each question was sent is indicated. 

H. H. T. 

January, 1910. 




The Finest Blooms in the World 

TO those who have pride in a beautiful garden the Sweet Pea 
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CONTENTS 



CHAPTER PAGE 

1. The Beginner's Guide to Rose Growing ... 1 

2. Carnations in Winter and Summer . . 39 

3. Sweet Pea Difficulties Made Clear . 48 

4. Flower Garden Trials and Troubles . ,04 

5. The Greenhouse Gay ... 79 

6. All about Chrysanthemums . . . 95 
T. Failures with Bulbous Flowers — How to Avoid Them" . 103 

8. Grape Growing in Greenhouses 110 

9. Fruit Growing Problems Solved .... 121 

10. Trees and Shrubs 140 

11. Home Grown Vegetables ... . .149 
Index .... 158 



1 

1 ; 

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Face First Matter] 



GARDENING DIFFICULTIES 
SOLVED 

CHAPTER I 
The Beginner's Guide to Rose Growing 

Time to Plant Roses 

Q. When should Roses be planted? I have been advised that 
various times are the best, and should be glad to know definitely. — 
E. S., Bucks. 

A. The best time is during the last week in October and the first 
two weeks in November. If, however, the ground is very wet the 
Eoses should not be planted but laid in a shallow trench, the roots 
being well covered with soil. This is commonly spoken of as 
"laying in" or "heeling in." In such circumstances the Eoses are 
planted when the soil is dry enough to be dug without sticking 
together in big lumps. Eoses may be planted from the end of 
October until the end of March, or in northern counties until the 
middle of April. It is better to plant later in ground that is in 
suitable condition than to plant early in ground that is saturated. 
If Eoses in pots are bought they may be planted at any time up to 
June, for there is no need to disturb the roots to any appreciable 
extent. They are, however, more expensive than Eoses lifted from 
the open ground. 

HoiRT to Plant 

Q. How shall I proceed to plant Eoses 1 Is it necessary to use 
manure at planting time 1 — J. K. L., Romford. 

A. The chief thing to do is to dig the ground at least 2 feet deep. 
Eoses are not successful in badly tilled ground. Well rotted farm- 
yard manure is the best stuff to dig in the Eose beds before planting, 
and it should be mixed in the lower 12 inches, so as not to be in 
direct contact with the roots at first. If this cannot be had, basic 
slag, applied at the rate of 8 oz. per square yard, may be used. It is 
best to prepare the ground two or three weeks before the Roses are 
B 



2 GAKDENING DIFFICULTIES SOLVED 

put in, so that it may settle down to its normal level. Put in the 
Roses so that the junction of stock and scion is covered with 1 inch 
of soil. 

It is most important («) to cut oflf all bruised and broken ends, (b) to 
spread out the roots to their full extent, (c) to work the soil well 
amongst them, and {d) to make the soil quite firm by treading. Do 
not put all the soil in and then make firm, but tread down each 
spadeful as it is put in. The uppermost roots of standard and 
climbing Roses should be about 2 inches below the surface ; t}ie 
stake is put in before the soil. It is of great importance to make 
standards firm and to secure them to a stake or other support. 
Otherwise they get blown about and loosened. 

Replanting Roses 

(,). I am desirous of replanting some Rose trees in a fresh position 
this year. The trees have borne a very good supply of blooms and 
appear to be strong. When would be the best time to undertake 
this 1 and should the trees be pruned before or after they have been 
transplanted t — Unimus, Surrey. 

A. The best time to undertake the work of replanting your Roses 
would be in the latter part of October or early November. As you 
dig up the trees, cut back the roots a few inches with a sharp knife, 
and look well for suckers of the wild stock on which they are budded. 
If any are seen, cut them off at the point of origin. The growths 
should be cut back to about 15 or 18 inches from the base. Dip the 
roots at once in some thin mud, and cover them with soil in a shady 
place until you are prepared to replant. Choose fine weather for the 
replanting. The plauts will take no harm heeled in for a week or 
two provided the soil is well trodden about their roots. 

Planting Sweet Briar for Hedge 

Q. Will you advise me as to the distance apart at which I should 
plant Sweet Briar Roses to form a hedge 1 Also whether the Pen- 
zance Briars are as sweet smelling as the Common Sweet Briar 1 — 
A. 0. C, Altrincham. 

A. If you are planting a single row, a distance of about 2 feet 
should be allowed between the plants of common Sweet Briars, and 
2J feet for Penzance Briars. If a wide hedge is desired then plant a 
double row thus . - . ■ , the plants 18 inches apart. The Penzance 
Briars are very sweet in foliage, but not quite equal to the common 
Sweet Briar. They are, however, most lovely when in bloom. 




Photo. : W. J. Vasey, AMnridon. 

A GATHERING OP BED AND YELLOW EOSES. 



4 GARDENING DIFFICULTIES SOLVED 

Pruning Hybrid Perpetual Roses 

Q. I have a collection of Hybrid Perpetual Roses, but the pruning 
has been neglected. Can you advise 1 — U. J., Uitchin. 

A. These are easily divided into three sections representative of 

their vigour of 
growth, namely 
weak {e.g. A. K. 
Williams) ; mod- 
erate {e.g. Mrs. 
John Laing); 
vigorous {e.'j. 
Clio). They 
should be pruned 
according to their 
growth — the 
stronger the 
shoots are, the 
less severe prun- 
ing they need. 
Pruning encour- 
ages growth, so 
that to cut back 
a vigorous shoot 
hard results in 
the production 
of three or four 
equally strong 
growths with 
fewer flowers. 
Broadly speak- 
ing, the vigorous 

BUSH OF HYBRID TEA" ROSE BEFORE SOrtS are CUt 

PRUNING. back to within 9 

inches or 1 foot 
of the base of the previous year's growth. Those of moderate 
growth may be cut back to within 6 inches, and the weak growers 
to within 2 to 4 inches of the base of the previous summer's growth. 

Pruning Hybrid Tea Roses 

<J. How far back should I cut my Hybrid Tea Roses at pruning '( 
—X Y. Z., Henley. 




BEGINNER'S GUIDE TO ROSE GROWING 5 

A. These are essentially the Koses for the garden, especially for 
the town and suburban garden. They should only be moderately 
pruned. The strong growths may be left 1 foot to 18 inches in 
length, or even more if large bushes are desirable. Shorten the side 
or lateral growths 
to within 2 to 3 ■ / 

inches of the f 

main shoots. The 
weak growing ' ' 

Hybrid Teas re- 
quire more severe 
pruning ; Liberty 
and Mildred 
Grant are exam- 
ples. 

Pruning Tea 
and China 
Koses 

(^. I a m i n 
doubt as to the 
proper method of 
pruning Tea and 
C h i n a K o s e s. 
Please advise. — 
H. W; Sussex. t 

A. These Roses 
often suffer rather 
severely from } ' '• 
frost except where ; 
well protected or .- 
in sheltered po- the s.vmb plant as it appears after 
sitions. After the pruning. 

injured shoots 

have been cut away from the plants, these usually need little further 
pruning beyond removing weak growth near the base, and perhaps 
shortening a shoot or two to preserve the balance of the bushes. 
When the plants have been well protected, the strong growing sorts 
may be cut back to within 9 inches or 1 foot of the old wood, weak 
growers to within 2 to 4 inches. Often the frost does all the pruning 
that is needed. 




GARDENING DIFFICULTIES SOLVED 




TEA ROSE BEFORE PRUNING. 




THE SAME PLANT AFTER PRUNING. 



Pruning Neisly 
Planted Roses 

Q. Will you 
kindly say how 
and when I should 
prune climbing 
Roses planted in 
November 1 — P. 
M., Basingstoke. 

A. There are 
two courses open 
to you in pruning 
your climbing 
Eoses which were 
planted in au- 
tumn. The third 
week in March 
you can shorten 
them either a little 
or much. Leav- 
ing the shoots 
nearly full length 
or half length you 
will doubtless get 
a certain number 
of blooms the first 
summer, but the 
plants will make 
unsatisfa ctory 
growth. If you 
cut down all the 
shoots on each 
plant to within 3 
or 4 inches of the 
ground you will 
get no flowers 
from them the 
first year (or prac- 
tically none), but 
they will make 
shoots 6 feet and 



8 GARDENING DIFFICULTIES SOLVED 

more in length. These shoots will be vigorous and well ripened, 
will bloom profusely the next year, and will lay the foundation of a 
good plant. 

Pruning Rambling Roses 

Q. I have just (November) received some Kambler Koses from a 
nurseryman ; they all have four or five branches or shoots ranging 
from 3 to 5 feet long. After planting, should these be cut off, or left 




IN PRUNING ROSES WEAK 
AND DEAD WOOD AS AT A 
IS FIRST CUT OUT. THE RE- 
MAINING SHOOTS ARE THEN 
PRUNED AS SHOWN AT B. 



THINNING OUT A ROSE THAT 
IS CROWDED WITH WEAK 
AND USELESS SHOOTS. DO 
NOT PRUNE AT B, BUT CUT 
BACK TO A. 



for the winter and pruned in the spring % and when pruning, how 
much should be removed ? The names of the sorts are Lady 
Gay, Crimson Eambler, and Longvvorth Rambler. — A. B. P., 
Sout}iaw2'>ton. 

A. If you have planted the Ramblers against some support, it 
will not be advisable to prune them until spring ; then cut back to 
within 3 or 4 inches of the ground. If planted out as free bushes 
cut back now to prevent swaying about in gales. Climbing and 
rambling Roses that are established are pruned as soon as the 



BEGINNER'S GUIDE TO ROSE GROWING 9 

flowers are over. Pruning takes the form uf cutting out some of 
the oldest growths — those that have bloomed. The finest fiowers 
are produced on one year old shoots, i.e. those of the previous 
summer's growth. 

Pruning Crimson Kambler Rose 

Q. My plants of this Rose have made rampant growth. How do 
I prune them, and when ? — Amateur, Feltham. 

A. It is best to thin out the old flowering growths as soon as 
they have finished flowering, and in the following March to shorten 





SHOVFING HOW A NEWLY 

PLANTED BUSH ROSE IS HARD 

PRUNED. 



THE SKETCH B 
SHOWS HOW IT 
IS PRUNED, AND 
C IND I C A T E S 
THE DIRECTION 
NEW SHOOTS 
WILL TAKE. 



A STRONG YOUNG HYBRID 

PERPETUAL ROSE IS SHOWN 

AT A. 



the side growths. As your plant has made very little progress this 
season, all that can be recommended in the way of pruning is to cut 
clean to the base all thin, weakly growths, retaining the best. This 
should be done now (September). 

Pruning Mar6chal Niel Rose 

Q. A Marechal Niel Rose in my greenhouse has made vigorous 
shoots during the summer. How should these be pruned, and when 1 
— Ignorant, Faversham. 




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BEGINNER'S GUIDE TO ROSE GROWING 11 

A. The strong healthy growth made during the summer should 
not be pruned very much, if at all, for Marechal Niel produces its 
flowers on the wood made the previous year. Hence to cut away 
this growth would mean the loss of many flowers in the coming 
season. The Rose should be well thinned of all weak shoots in 
winter, whether new or old, but the best of the past season's shoots 
should be retained and left as long as possible. Marechal Niel is 
greatly benefited by summer pruning, say about the end of July or 
as soon as summer flowering is over. This consists of cutting back 
those shoots which have flowered to within 1 foot or so of their base. 
Young growths then develop, and it is .these which, when well 
ripened, make the best flowering wood for the next season. 

Roses That do not Droop 

Q. Do any of the following Roses droop their heads when in 
bloom ? I have a Suzanne Marie Rodocanachi, which droops owing 
to the weight of the bloom, and I do not want any like that. Are 
the following as good as I can get in their respective colours ? 
Capt. Hayward, Madame Ravary, General McArthur, Betty, Dean 
Hole, Madame A, Chatenay, Pharisaer, Prince de Bulgarie. — Novice, 
Battersea. 

A. A few sorts that come nearly to your standard of perfection 
are Pharisaer, Princesse Mertchersky, Dean Hole, Lady Battersea, and 
Joseph Hill. Most of the varieties you name carry their blossoms 
erect, save Betty. This Rose is inclined to droop somewhat, but not 
to any extent. 

Rose for North Wall 

Q. Will you tell me what Rose I can plant on a wall with a cold 
north exposure? It gets very little sun even in summer. Would a 
Gloire de Dijon do I—Fir Tree, N.B. 

A . You might plant any of the following : Gloire de Dijon 
(creamy yellow), Reine Marie Henriette (red), F61icit6 Perpetue 
(white). Bouquet d'Or (yellow shades). 

Roses for Shady ISfall 10 Feet High 

Q. I have a wall 10 feet high which gets the sun about three 
hours in the afternoon. What Rose can I plant here ? I want one 
of good form and with high, pointed centre if possible, and, above 
all, free and continuous blooming. I am not particular as to colour, 
but should prefer a yellow. Bear in mind mine is a town garden. 
I also want to get five pillar Roses to give a succession of bloom. 



12 GARDENING DIFFICULTIES SOLVED 

assorted colours and of good form. I already have Crloire de Dijon, 
Gruss an Teplitz, Lady Gay, and Crimson Eambler. Also a good 
white Rose. Would Madame A. Carrifere suit me in this case 1 I 
should like to know why it is not advisable to buy bundles of Roses 
at auction sales. — Anxious, Fulham. 

A. The variety of Rose that you would like for the 10-feet wall 
would be Kaiserin Friedrich or Bouquet d'Or. Either should grow 
in the somewhat shaded aspect, if you prepare a good deep hole for 
the roots. Five good pillar Roses would be Climbing Caroline 
Testout, Ards Rover, Conrad F. Meyer, J. B. Clark, Fran9oisCrousse. 
Madame A. Carrifere would be a splendid Rose for your proposed 
trellis. It is not specially beautiful in form, but is such a good 
grower that we could not recommend a better. A more perfect 
bloom would be Climbing K. A. Victoria, and we believe it would 
grow with you. Do not buy pot plants, but get good specimens 
from the open ground. They could be obtained for the price you 
name, Is. 6d. each. We should not advise you to buy Roses at 
auction sales for the simple reason that you have to take what is 
given you, and usually they are the leavings after the season's sales. 
Moreover, the plants are allowed to stand about and the roots 
become parched up. 

Six Roses for Exhibition 

Q. Will you tell me the names of six Rose varieties for showing 
purposes ? — W. F., Nairn. 

A. You will find the following good, reliable sorts to grow. Dean 
Hole, Frau Karl Druschki, Mrs. John Laing, Mrs. W. J. Grant, 
Ulrich Brunner, Madame Jules Gravereaux. The latter is a very 
strong grower, but prune it down to the ground each year, and it will 
produce some enormous blooms. 

Roses for Hedge 

Q. I am anxious to plant a Rose hedge, and would be glad if you 
would tell me which of the following would be the most suitable. The 
hedge would be about 30 feet long, and unfortunately much exposed 
to north-west wind. Rosa rugosa, alba, rubra, Conrad F. Meyer, 
common Sweet Briar. Please suggest any more suitable, and give 
advice as to distance apart to plant, and pruning. — A. 8., Slackbtirn. 

A. If you desire a tall hedge, you could not do better than plant 
Conrad F. Meyer or the charming Penzance Briar Anne of Geierstein, 
which has rich crimson blossoms. But, possibly, as the hedge would 




A PILLAR OF ROSE DOROTHY PERKINS. THIS IS A SPLENDID 
ROSE FOR BEGINNERS. HERE IS ITS CULTIVATION IN A NUT- 
SHELL. PLANT IN WELL DUG SOIL IN NOVEMBER ; CUT DOWN 
TO WITHIN 6 INCHES OF BASE IN MARCH. IN SUCCEEDING 
TEAKS CUT OUT A FEW OP THE OLDER GROWTHS AS SOON 
AS THEY HAVE BLOOMED, 



14 GARDENING DIFFICULTIES SOLVED 

be much exposed to west winds, you would prefer a hedge growing 
to about 5 feet high. This could be secured with Rosa rugosa, the 
red and white forms, and also mingled with them Blanc double de 
Courbet and Mrs. A. Waterer. The common Sweet Briar is deli- 
ciously fragrant, but you obtain little or no blossom. A Rose that 
makes a really beautiful and continuous flowering hedge is Gruss an 
Teplitz, a rich scarlet crimson sort and very sweet. If you cared to 
do so, you could blend a white Rose with it, e.g. Madame Alfred 
Carrifere. The two are very free and continuous in their blossoming. 
Plant from 2 to 3 feet apart. In March cut the plants back to about 
3 feet from the ground. If not so tall as this, do not prune at all. 
The second year cut down to ground one or more of the oldest 
growths, and repeat this every spring ; then j^ou ensure a good base. 
Just a trim over will suffice for the other growths. Be careful to 
plant in well trenched soil in November. 

Ppeparing Briar Stocks 

Q. What will be the best mode of procedure in order to have a 
stock of rooted Briars for budding Roses on in summer — Tea 
Roses to be grown in pots 1 Residing in a rural district, I have 
access to plenty of wild Briars to obtain cuttings. How shall I take 
them, and how must they be treated ? — K A. W., Somerset. 

A. Strong cuttings of the common Briar may be taken any time 
during September and October. Have them 9 inches long, and 
select only strong, well ripened wood ; cut close to a joint at the 
bottom, and remove all the buds except three at the top. Plant in 
rows 2 feet apart and 6 inches apart in the rows, burying the cuttings 
half their length or more in the ground, and press the soil very firmly 
about them. A mulch of leaf mould or old manure between the 
rows will be useful. They will hardly be strong enough for budding 
the next summer, unless strong cuttings are taken and they are watered 
in dry weather. The usual plan is to leave the cuttings one year to 
get well rooted. Transplant at wider intervals in autumn, and bud 
the next summer. There is not much gained by budding before the 
stocks are well rooted and strong. 

Selection of Standard Roses 

Q. Will you give a selection of eight Roses for standards, two 
pink, two red, two white, one yellow, and one other ? Wanted for 
garden decoration, good form, and sweet scented. Have already got 
The Bride, Joseph Hill, Madame Abel Chatenay, Hugh Dickson, 




Sff. 







16 GARDBNIN-G DIFFICULTIES SOLVED 

Ulrich Brunner, Viscountess Folkestone, La France, and General 
Jacqueminot. Would November planting be suitable for this 
district ?—.S. B., Lonilun, S.E. 

A. The following have a good vigorous habit of growth, and are 
fragrant : Pink, Madame Jules Grolez, Gustav Grunerwald ; red, 
Commandant Felix Faure, Charles Lefebvre ; blush white, Augustine 
Guinoisseaii, Clio ; yellow, Madame Kavary ; and Pharisaer, a good 
blush to make the eight. Plant in November. 

Best Cream and Best Yellow Roses as Half Standards 

(). I should be glad to know of the best ten cream and yellow 
Roses to grow as half standards out of the following selection : 
Gloire Lyonnaise, Marie van Houtte, Florence Pemberton, Madame 
Falcot, Francisca Kriiger, Madame Jules Gravereaux, Madame 
Hoste, Madame Ravary, Rubens, Madame Pernet Ducher, iladame 
Jean Dupuy, Madame Berard, Dean Hole, Hon. Edith Gifford, 
Souvenir de Pierre Notting, White Manian Cochet.— C. .S". H. S., 
Shrewsbury. 

A. Of the list submitted we would recommend the following ; 
Gloire Lyonnaise, Marie van Houtte, Madame Falcot, Florence 
Pemberton, Madame Jules Gravereaux, Madame Hoste, Madame 
Bavary, Madame Pernet Ducher, Souvenir de Pierre Netting, 
White Maman Cochet. 

Twelve Roses for Cold Garden 

Q. Would you give me the names of a dozen Roses, hardy and 
strong, for a cold garden 1 The wind is keen. I have tried several 
dozen and find many weak ones fail. — G. Bate^, Derhyshirc. 

A. The following varieties should grow well if you have the soil 
deeply dug : Conrad F. Meyer, Madame G. Bruant, LTlrich Brunner, 
Caroline Testout, H. Schultheis, John Hopper, Boule de Neige, 
Margaret Dickson, Dr. Andry, (Jruss an Teplitz, Madame I. Periere, 
Augustine Guinoisseau. 

Crimson Rose for Shady Spot 

Q. Kindly give me the name of any crimson Rose other than 
Crimson Rambler that will grow in rather a shady place and quickly 
cover a fence 8 feet high. — Bourne End. 

A. Either Hiawatha or Heine Olga de Wuitemberg would be the 
sort to plant for quick growth. The lirst named is perhaps the best 
and its lovely clusters of single flowers are always much admired, 




ROSE LADY GAY IN A GARDEN IN THE SUBURBS. 

THE SAME CULTURAL TREATMENT AS OUTLINED ON 

PAGE 13 IS APPLICABLE, 



18 GARDENING DIFFICULTIES SOLVED 

Roses for Suburban Garden 

Q. My garden is in a London suburb. I am anxious to take up 
Eose growing. Will you tell me how to prepare the ground, and 
give list of suitable varieties? — Ealing. 

A. The trenching or double digging is carried out as follows in 
October : Mark out the soil to be trenched in 1-yard lengths, or if 
the borders are narrow, or the plot of ground a circular bed, the 
principle will apply, that is, to move the top soil to the depth of the 
spade, and with a five tined fork well fork up the lower soil to the 
depth of the fork. This soil is not brought to the surface, but kept 
where it is. All that is done is to mix some good manure with it. 
If you cannot procure farmyard or other good manure, then use basic 
slag at the rate of 8 oz. to 1 square yard. This material can be ob- 
tained of any horticultural sundriesman. Having put the lower soil 
right, add some bone meal to the top soil at the rate of about 3 lb. 
to a wheelbarrowful of soil. It will be all the better if the soil is 
allowed to settle down before planting, which should be done, if 
possible, by the middle of November. Be careful to choose fine 
weather for planting. Trim the roots fairly hard back and plant 
very firmly, treading the soil about them as tightly as possible, but 
leave the surface soil loose. A few good sorts to commence with are 
Caroline Testout, Hugh Dickson, Frau Karl Druschki, Gustav 
Grunerwald, Lady Ashtown, Mrs. .John Laing, ^Madame Eavary, 
Prince de Bulgarie, Madame Jean Dupuy, General McArthur, 
Joseph Hill, and Viscountess Folkestone. If you have a spot where 
you could grow a good large bush plant Conrad F. Meyer, and should 
you desire one or two for arches or trellis we recommend Dorothy 
Perkins, Tausendschon, and Hiawatha. 

Roses for Heavy Clay Soil 

Q. What would you suggest as the best six or eight Koses 
suitable for a rather heavy clay soil ? I prefer H.T.'s or Teas to 
H.P.'s, but would act as you suggest. Can you also tell me if you 
would recommend J. B. Clark as a good garden Eose t If not, the 
nearest H.T. to this colour. — Pkroso, Herts. 

A. Eight good Eoses for your garden would be Caroline Testout, 
Frau Karl Druschki, Madame Jean Dupuy, Madame Jules Grolez, 
Prince de Bulgarie, Viscountess Folkestone, Marie ^'an Houtte, 
Laurent Carle. We cannot recommend J. B. Clarlc as a good garden 
Eose, although splendid at times. We much prefer Hugh Dickson. 
This is really the best crimson Eose for iiny garden. 



''#^\-^<'k;--'«>|| 







♦ * 






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«^«» 



4 ^%y^r'-^y 






4 'V 








20 GARDENING DIFFICULTIES SOLVED 

Roses -with Long Pointed Blooms 

Q. Would you be good enough to name half a dozen Hoses for 
the garden that produce long, pointed blooms, double, and of good 
habit, etc. ? — J. L., Cardiff. 

A. The following are excellent varieties possessing this qualifica- 




BLOSSOMS OF THE EXQUISITE HYBRID TEA ROSE BETTY, SOFT 
SHADES OF ROSE AND Y-ELLOW. GOOD IN AUTUMN. 

tion. Frau Karl Druschki, Lady Battersea, Pharisaer, Dean Hole, 
Madame Hoste, White Maman Cochet. 

Sweet Scented Roses 

Q- Please give the names of any Koses similar in colour to or better 
than Madame Abel Chatenay, and sweetly scented. Also the names of 
two or three very dark Roses that are scented, and suitable for 
growing in this neighbourhood. — ^I. Saiinderf, Wimbledon. 




BOSE CONRAD P. MEYEE, A VERY VIGOROUS AND VERY THORNY 
JAPANESE BRIAR ROSE WITH LARGE AND FRAGRANT PINK BLOOMS. 
A MAGNIFICENT ROSE. THRIVES IN HEAVY SOIL AND PARTIAL 
SHADE. CUT OUT A FEW OF THE OLDER GROWTHS IN SEPTEMBER. 




a 
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ta a 

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BEGINNER'S GUIDE TO ROSE GROWING 23 

^1. Few if any Roses can'comiiare with Madame Abel Chatenay as 
an all-round variety, but we can recommend the following as being 
really good and fragrant : Mrs. David Jardine, Madame Segond 
Weber, Elizabeth Barnes, Betty, Lyon Rose. The following very 
dark Roses are scented : Charles Lefebvre, Abel Carrifere, Jubilee, 
Louis Van Houtte, Xavier Olibo, and Pierre Notting. 

Bright Coloured Roses 

Q. Kindly give me names of Roses— real good Hybrid Perpetuals 
— of the beautiful, full, deep colour of Duke of Wellington and A. K. 
Williams. I do not want bluish reds at all— just the pure deep glow- 
ing colour mentioned above. I have tried many of the so-called 
(catalogued) crimson and deep scarlet, but when they bloom they are 
often disappointing. Out of thirteen varieties — which I hoped from 
description to be near the same colour — only the above two pleased 
me.— i^. G., Bolton. 

A. You are asking for Roses that do not exist. We could name 
some brilliant colours, but they have no special beauty of form ; indeed, 
some are very thin. We do not know how you can find fault with 
such a superb Rose as Charles Lefebvre or General Jacqueminot or 
Duchess of Bedford. Such Roses need to be established a year or 
two to see them in their real beauty, and you are expecting too 
much the first season after planting. A few sorts that we think will 
please you are Commandant Fiilix Faure, Comte Raimbaud, Hugh 
Dickson, Duke of Edinburgh, Duke of Teck, Thomas Mills, and from 
the H.T.'s Charles J. Grahame and General McArthur. Frangois 
Crousse and Ards Rover are also two brilliant colours, but these are 
very vigorous, although they may be grown as free bushes. 

Hybrid Tea Roses for Planting in Masses and for Shonr 

Q. I enclose a list of dwarf H.T. Roses [ have just marked, and 
should be glad to know if you think them a good lot for bedding, 
and also if suitable for local show. Mrs. W. J. Grant, Countess of 
Derby, Dean Hole, Earl of Warwick, H. Armjtage Moore, Joseph 
Hill, Lady Ashtown, Laurent Carle, Madame Abel Chatenay, 
Madame Melanie Soupert, Monsieur Paul Lede, Mrs. D. McKee, Mrs. 
Harold Brocklebank, Richmond, W. E. Lippiatt, William Shean, 
Madame Hector Leuilliot (climber), Frau Philip Gedaldig. Is it 
possible to transplant successfully during November, Hybrid Tea, 
Roses (bush and standard) budded this summer on cutting Briar 
—E. W. W., London Suburb. 



24 GARDENING DIFFICULTIES SOLVED 

A. Yes ; these may be transplanted in November, and they will 
be tolerably successful, but we do not advise this being done if it can 
possibly be avoided, as you would obtain nothing like the vigour 
from the buds you would if the stocks were not disturbed. The list 
you give is a very good one, and you will not be far wrong in plant- 
ing the varieties named. There are a few good show Roses which 
you might add, such as Mrs. Theodore Roosevelt, Madame Jules 
Gravereaux, Florence Pemberton, Madame Segond Weber, Lyon Rose, 
Princess Mertchersky, and Yvonne Vacherot, that would be 
immensely useful to yod for exhibition purposes. 

Roses for Pergola 

Q. I have just put up a pergola in my garden in Hertfordshire, 
and should be glad to know of a good selection of varieties to plant. 
I want chiefly Roses that give good quality blooms. — E. IV. W. 

A. The selection given below, when established, cannot fail to 
make a very beautiful feature of the garden. For a pergola to look 
really well it is necessary that there should be a certain simultaneity 
of flowering of the various sorts planted. As you wish to confine 
your pergola to Roses we name a few fast growing sorts that should 
be planted at intervals, say of about 8 yards. For east side the 
following rapid growers are recommended, Dorothy Perkins, 
Hiawatha, Edmund Proust, White Dorothy Perkins, Blush Rambler, 
Delight. For the west side, F^licite Perpetue, Mrs. F. W. Flight, 
Crimson Rambler, Lady Godiva, Madame Alfred Carrifere, Minne- 
haha. Plant about four varieties of the following in between each 
set of two fast growers in the order named herewith. For east side, 
Waltham Climber No. 1, Climbing Caroline Testout, Monsieur Desir, 
Climbing La France, Aimee Vibert, Conrad F. Meyer, Kaiserin 
Friedrich, J. B. Clark, Alister Stella Gray, Climbing Captain Christy, 
Ulrich Brunner, Madame Jules Siegfritd, Reine Marie Henrietta, 
Climbing Frau Karl Druscbki, Reve d'Or, Madame Wagram, Boule 
de Neige, Ella Gordon. On the west side, Gloire de Dijon, Gaston 
Chandon, Climbing K. A. Victoria, Climbing Mrs. W. J. Grant, 
Madame I. Periere, Crepuscule, Ards Rover, Nova Zembla, Madame 
Berard, Francois Crousse, Climbing Devonieusis, Climbing Pride of 
Waltham, Zephirine Drouhin, Gloire Lyonnaise, Lady Waterlow, 
Duchesse dAuerstadt, Hugh Dickson, Madame Hector Leuilliot, Dr. 
Rouges, Mrs. Paul. The above selection is made primarily with the 
object of providing a glorious show at one time, although they will 
give Roses throughout a long period. 



BEGINNER'S GUIDE TO ROSE GROWING 25 

Six Darkest Roses 

Q. Please name tlie six darkest red Roses for the garden. — W. E., 
Bixhop Aiichland. 

A. The following are good reliable sorts : Prince C. de Rohan, 
Abel Carrifere, Louis Ricard, Baron de Bonstetten, W. E. Lippiatt, 
Charles Lefebvre- 




ONE OF THE NEWER ROSES, H.T. 
BLUSH, ORANGE ROSE IN CENTRE. 



MRS. SOPHIA NEATB, 
VERY PINE IN BUD. 



Roses for North Border 

Q. I should be glad to know which are the best Roses to plant on 
a border facing north. — Deborah, Berks. 

A. Most of the Rugosa or Japanese Roses would grow well on 
this border, and we can recommend the following : Conrad F. 
Meyer, grown as a pillar Rose ; Blanc double de Courbet, Madame 



26 GARDENING DIFFICULTIES SOLVED 

Georges Bruant, iSlercedes, Eose k parfum de I'Hay, Mrs. Anthony 
Waterer, Chedane Guinoisseau, and the single pink and single white 
Rugosa for their lovely and showy fruit. The Tenzance Briars would 
do well in this border, and the Hybrid Briar Una would be a beautiful 
object. Some of the Hybrid Chinese and Hybrid inacrantha Roses, 
such as Chenedale, Charles Lawson, Paul Ricart, Lady Sarah Wilson, 
Mrs. 0. G. Orpen, Lady Curzon would be fine, but let them be grown 
as pillar Roses, or if not, give them plenty of space, say 4 feet each 
way, so that they develop into good large bushes. The following 
would also make more variety : Magna Charta, Heinrich Schultheis, 
Boule de Neige, Clio, Madame Eugfene Fremy, Cheshunt Hybrid, 
Gruss an Teplitz, Pink Rover, Crimson Globe (Moss), Celestial 
(Maiden'sBlush), Madame Hardy (Damask). 

Fragrant Climbing Roses for House Wall 

Q. I want to plant a good climbing Rose, sweet scented, to cover 
a house wall that faces due south. The forecourt is of cement, but I 
have a hole some 2 by li feet already made. What variety do you 
advise 1 Shall I plant in November, and how shall I prepare the 
soil 1 Also, I want a few quick climbers, sweet smelling if possible, 
to grow on poles at the back of bed 15 feet long facing due south ; 
what shall I get and how many ? I also want a few Roses to plant 
on a lawn facing north ; will you recommend a long flowering variety ? 
—E. W. II., Forest Gate. 

A. In such a district as Forest Gate you require a good vigorous 
variety, and as you desire a sweet smelling Rose we think Gruss an 
Teplitz one of the best for your purpose. This is scarlet. If you 
prefer a creamy white, then plant ^ladame Alfred Carrifere. Some 
good quick climbers for poles would be Hiawatha, Rene Andre, Blush 
Rambler, Dorothy Perkins, Conrad F. Meyer, Noella Nabonnand, 
Zephirine Drouhin. Some good perpetual flowering Roses to plant- 
on lawn facing north would be Hugh Dickson, Mrs. John Laing, 
Ulrich Brunner, Mme. Abel Chatenay, Grace Darling, Gustav Gruner, 
wald, Madame Jules Grolez, Commandant Felix Faure, La France, 
Augustine Guinoisseau, Charles Lefebvre, Prince C. de Rohan, 
Benateur Vaisse. 

Rambler Rose Dying Off 

Q. Would you tell me the reason for a Crimson Rambler dying 
off] The wood is going yellow and the leaves go yellow also and 
fall oft". It was planted in clay on light soil against the root of an 



BEGINNER'S GXTIDB TO ROSE GROWING 27 

old dead Pear tree. I have other Jiamblers in the garden which are 
doing well. I enclose one or two leaves. — //. H. N., Ilornsey. 

A. It may be that the plant has cankered at the junction where 
it was budded, but we think most probably the cause could be traced 
to its roots being in uncongenial soil of insufficient depth. We 
advise you to have a larger hole dug out in autumn, taking care that 
the soil is moved 3 feet deep and as much in width and breadth. In 
returning soil mix with it some good manure, and after the soil has 
lain for about two or three weeks replant your Rose, or, better still, 
procure a new one on its own roots. These Roses are readily pro- 
curable in this way now, and they are much superior to budded 
plants. 

Roses Failing 

Q. I enclose two cuttings of two different trees. Can you tell me 
the cause of their getting in this condition ? I planted twelve in a 
bed 6 feet square in March. The bed was a new one ; 2 feet of soil 
with 9 inches of stones under, and manure just below the roots, and 
well manured on top. All of the trees are in the same state more or 
less. I got the trees from a reputable firm. They have a fairly 
sunny aspect. — E. D., Bolton. » 

A. Your soil is probably too light for Roses, and you may have 
given the bed too much drainage. The specimen growths sent 
appeared as though the plants had been burnt up. Perhaps you did not 
plant them firmly enough. Eoses need to be planted very firmly, 
and it is a good plan to go over the plantation a week afterwards and 
press the soil again with the heel. It may be the plants had been 
frozen at the root ere you received them, or perhaps you did not 
prune them. Rose plants should be cut back hard the first season 
after planting, to within 3 or 4 inches of the ground. 

Climbing Roses Failing on West Wall 

Q. On a wall facing west of a house I have recently taken there 
are three Rose trees trained, Crimson Rambler, Hiawatha, and Gloire 
de Dijon, the lower parts of which are nearly bare, and the remain- 
ing leaves all affected by apparently the same disease. I enclose 
specimens. Your advice would be esteemed. — Rosey, Salisbury. 

A. AH the Roses have suffered from red spider, a pest that 
'frequently attacks wall Roses. Crimson Rambler is notoriously 
addicted to this when planted against a wall, the very worst position 
for it, and it has probably given it to the others. We should advise 



28 GARDENING DIFFICULTIES SOLVED 

you to remove this Rose to the open garden in the autumn. Good 
syringing upon the under side of foliage will stop the pest as much as 
anything, and plain water should be frequently employed ; but at 
intervals of about ten days syringe with a solution of liver of sulphur 
made by dissolving 1 oz. of the sulphur in 10 gallons of water. 

Roses on Wall Flowering at Top Only 

Q. Roses planted against a wall have grown up immensely tall, 
and only have leaves and blooms high up, because there was a thick 
growth of other plants low down— i.e. up to 5 or 6 feet. These are 
now removed, and the long, bare stems of the Roses look very 
miserable. Had I better cut the Roses back and these bare stems, 
leaving them, say, 3 feet high ? — M. de A'., Essex. 

A. Cut down the oldest stems of the Roses to within 2 to 3 feet 
of the base in March. Bend down the remainder in a horizontal 
direction, fastening them to the wall. This should induce them to 
break into growth also near the base, after which you can cut off the 
tops. Give the plants a mulching of manure as soon as pruned. 

Artificial Manures for Roses 

Q. I am unable to obtain farmyard manure. What is the best 
artificial fertiliser to use 1 — E. J. K., Caterham. 

A. What is known as Tonks' manure is an excellent preparation, 
and should be applied in February at the rate of J lb. to 1 square 
yard of surface. It is compounded as follows : Superphosphate of 
lime, 12 parts ; nitrate of potash, 10 parts ; sulphate of magnesia, 
2 parts; sulphate of iron, 1 part; sulphate of lime, 8 parts. It 
should be well hoed in or lightly forked in . 

Dried Blood as Manure 

Q. I shall be glad to know whether, 1, this manure can be suc- 
cessfully used in the growth of Roses, and if so, whether, 2, it should 
be incorporated with the soil when trenching?— .dmn^t-ur, S. Wales. 

A. This is a very useful stimulant for all crops, but should only 
be applied during the growing season. Apply about 1 oz. to the 
square yard at intervals of two weeks, from May to July, forking or 
hoeing it into the surface soil. 

Half-inch Bones for Roses 

Q. Will you enlighten me on the following ] I have been told 
that if .i-inch bones are mixed with the soil in which Roses are to be 



30 GARDENING DIFFICULTIES SOLYED 

planted, it makes them produce superabundance of roots and little 
top. Also that it produces Hiildew, which works from the roots 
upwards. Is this so 1 — F. JJ., Ijjswich. 

A. There is'no truth in the assertion that bones are injurious to 
Roses, in fact it is the other way about, as you may see if you turn 
out a pot Rose in which bones have been mixed with the soil. 
Every little rootlet will quickly lay hold of the small particles. 
Half-inch bones are more durable for outside planting. We should 
advise about 1^ lb. to 2 lb. to 2 bushels of soil, or say, two handfuls 
for each plant, well mixing it with the soil. There should be farm- 
yard manure applied at the same time if possible. Both standards 
and Ramblers benefit by the application of ^-inch bones. 

Basic Slag and Kainit for Roses 

Q. I have been told that these are good for Roses, but am ignor- 
ant of the manner of using them. Can you help 1 — J/am of Kent. 

A. Basic slag, being nearly half free lime, would be an excellent 
dressing for land rich in organic matter. The basic slag contains 
from 16 to 18 per cent, of phosphoric acid, and the kainit about 
12 per cent, of potash. Do not apply more than 8 oz. per square 
yard of the basic slag, and 2 oz. to 3 oz. of kainit. The mixture 
should be dug in as deeply as may be done without injury to the 
roots, and the earlier in the winter this is done the better will be the 
effect the following season. In the spring, where the basic slag and 
kainit have been used in the winter, you may apply a dressing of 
2 parts superphosphate and 1 part sulphate of ammonia, pointing the 
mixture very lightly into the soil or hoeing it in, 2 oz. to 3 oz. being 
applied per square yard. 

Rambler Roses and Others from Cuttings 

Q. Please tell me the correct time to take cuttings of Sweet Briar, 
climbing Polyantha, and Wichuraiana Roses. What kind of shoots 
should be taken? I am told that some Roses besides Gloire de 
Dijon will flower with little or no sun. Could you kindly name 
them ? I have struck various Teas in water. Will the above kinds 
answer thus 1 — Enquirer, Shrewshury. 

A. The best time to put in cuttings of the Rambler Roses and 
other hardy kinds is early in October. Good, well ripened growths 
are best. Those that have flowered the same year make up into 
very good cuttings. You could first take oflF the laterals that bore 
the blossom, if possible securing a heel or piece of the old wood, and 



BEGINNEES GUIDE TO ROSE GROWING 31 

cut this through with a sharp knife. The cuttings should be about 
8 inches in length. Sometimes these laterals will make two or three 
cuttings. Use the strongest wood you can get, providing it is not 
soft and pithy. Plant them in the open garden on a piece of well 
dug soil, and let the rows be about 12 inches apart, and the cuttings 




IF CUTTINOS OP ROSES ARE INSERTED IN A FLOWER POT 

FILLED WITH SANDY SOIL IN LATE SUMMER OR EARLY 

AUTUMN, THEY' WILL FORM ROOTS IN A FEW WEEKS IF 

PLACED UNDER A HANDLIGHT IN A GREENHOUSE. 



about 4 inches apart in the rows. They should be put in almost 
their full depth, merely leaving about -^ inch above the soil, and be 
careful to tread them in very tightly. It is a good plan to put a 
little sandy soil for the ends of cuttings to rest on. Most Hoses 
prefer sunshine, but the Scotch Eoses will grow in the shade, also 
the Kugosa or Japanese tribe. We should not advise you to strike 




A ROSE CUTTING TWO MONTHS AFTBR INSERTION'. IT WAS 

TAKEN IN AUGUST AND TREATED AS DESCRIBED ON THE 

PREVIOUS PAGE. THE ROOTS MAY BE SEEN. 



BEGINNER'S GUIDE TO ROSE GROWING 33 

these Kambler Koses in water, as it would be too late in the year for 
this method of rooting them. They would strike very well in water 
the same as Tea Roses, but you would need to put the cuttings in 
in July in the greenhouse. 

Spraying Koses for Mildew 

Q. My Roses are now (September) covered with mildew. What 
can I do to cure them 1—S. E. T., Reading. 

A. Towards the end of summer, when the leaves of Roses are 
white with mildew, people are anxious to know what they can do to 
check the disease ; but it is then too late to save the plants from 
disfigurement. The white part seen on the leaves is the fruiting 
stage of the fungus, which has already been on the plant for 
a considerable period. If, however, preventive measures are taken 
early in the year, the fungus does not obtain a firm footing. An ex- 
cellent time to spray for mildew is early spring, just as growth is 
commencing. The spraying ought to be done twice or thrice, at 
intervals of a fortnight. Bordeaux mixture is one of the most 
suitable preparations to use. It can be prepared as follows : 
Dissolve 3 lb. of copper sulphate in warm water, placing the 
mixture in a barrel holding 22 gallons. In another vessel slake 
2 lb. of fresh burnt lime, and make to the consistency of a creamy 
whitewash ; then strain through canvas into the barrel of sulphate 
solution, make up to 22 gallons with water, stir well, and apply as a 
fine" spray to every part of the branches. If this spraying is per- 
severed with, very little mildew will appear later in the year. 

Climbing Roses for Unheated Greenhouse 

Q. Please name the best six climbing- Roses for small, sunny, 
unheated greenhouse.— //. E. J., Walthamstoiv. 

A . The following are six good climbers for this purpose ; Bouquet 
d'Or, Cheshunt Hybrid, W. A. Richardson, Franijois Ciousse, Climb- 
ing C. Testout, Climbing Frau Karl Druschki. 

Climbing Roses for Heated Greenhouse 

Q. I am about to plant two climbing Roses in my conservatory to 
cover the wall. The house is a leanto, facing north-east, the floor 
bricked. Would it be best to take up a few bricks and plant in the 
earth or plant in tubs ! The sorts I intend planting are Niphetos and 
Marechal Niel. Please tell me how to treat them.— Scale, Witter- 
sham. 



34 GARDENING DIFFICULTIES SOLVED 

A. Unless you can prepare holes fully 3 feet deep and as much in 
width, and fill them with good soil, we should advise you to plant 
the two climbing Roses in tubs. Procure extra strong pot grown 
plants, and in transplanting be careful only to remove crocks and a 
little of the soil on the top edges. Soak the ball of soil in a bucket 
of water for a few minutes before planting. With these pot grown 
plants no pruning is needed the first year. 




KOSE LITTLE PET GROWN IN A FLOWER POT. 

Soil for Potting Roses 

Q. Can I use ordinary soil from the garden borders for potting 
Roses 1 — Eiir/uirer, Blackhenth. 

A. A potting soil for Roses should contain a fair amount of 
turfy soil. The garden soil sent is anything but this. It might 
be used in a small proportion with loam, otherwise we should 
not advise you to take much trouble in storing it. Try to procure 
the top spit from some pasture land, and stack this with alternate 
layers of cow manure ; then in twelve months you will have some 
good compost in which you can grow some grand Roses. 

Roses for Christmas 

Q. I am about to build a greenhouse. What is the earliest time 
for Roses to flower, as I would like some for Christmas 1 Please 



BEGINNER'S GUIDE TO ROSE GROWING 35 

name six best Roses for early forcing. Would pots be best for forc- 
ing Roses as I would like to use tliem 1 — C. W. C, Warmlck. 

A. Roses can be had in bloom by Christmas. The plants should 
be in pots and well established. Try your nurseryman for two year 
old plants that have not recently been repotted. These would give 
you the best results. Sometimes there are nursery sales where 
you could procure suitable plants. The six best sorts for early 
forcing would be Liberty, Madame Abel Chatenay, Richmond, 
Madame Ravary, Madame Hoste, Mrs. W. J. Grant. You must 
allow about three months between the starting of the Roses and 




ROSE MME. N. LEVAVASSE0R (CRIMSON), AN EXCELLENT A'ARIETY 
FOB GROWING IN POTS IN THE GREENHOUSE. 



36 GARDENING DIFFICULTIES SOLVED 

their blossoming, therefore you should obtain the plants in Sep- 
tember, and prune them lightly by the last week of that month. 

Bush Roses in Pots 

Q. Kindly inform me how to treat bush Koses in pots (just 
finished flowering in greenhouse) from now (May) up till the time of 
flowering in greenhouse next spring. — (/. If., Colchester. 




.#*s 



BOSB AENXfHBN MULLEB (ROSE-PINK), AN ADMIRABLE 
ROSE FOR THE GREENHOUSE. 

A. The plants that have jnst -finished flowering should be 
placed outdoors on a bed of ashes, covering the pots with ashes up 
to the rim. Take care they do not become dry, and keep all flower 
buds pinched ofi'. In September the plants should be repotted into 
a size larger pot if the pots are full of roots, but if not very well 
rooted merely top dress them. Tliis is done by removing about 1 
inch or so of the top soil, then sprinkling a little Clay's Fertilizer upon 
the soil, and filling up the space with fresh soil, such as good loam 



BEGINNER'S GUIDE TO ROSE GROWING 37 

and well decayed manure in equal parts. Keep the plants outdoors 
on the ashes until November, then place them in a sheltered spot 
until Christmas. At this time they should be pruned, cutting back 
the current season's growths to three or four buds. The plants may 
then either be placed in the greenhouse or in a cold frame. If in 
the greenhouse commence with a temperature of about 45° at night, 
increasing to about 50° by day. As growths develop the temperature 
may be increased up to 65° by day, about 10° less by night. 

Koses for Forcing 

Q. I am anxious to have a few pot Roses in bloom in my green- 
house in spring. How do I proceed l^H. E. 8., Utourhridge. 

A. The best results are always obtained when the plants have 
been established in their pots a year, but plants from the open 
ground, if potted up early in October and placed at once in a cold 
frame, may be put into a gentle heat about February and will yield 
some very good blossoms. If you elect to do this you should make 
a selection from the Hybrid Perpetuals and Hybrid Teas, and for 
your guidance we would name the following as being suitable : Frau 
Karl Druschki, Caroline Testout, La France, Mrs. John Laing, 
Captain Hay ward, Mrs. W. J. Grant, Liberty, Madame Ravary, 
Ulrich Brunner, and Duke of Wellington. Procure plants on the 
Briar, and when obtained trim over their roots a little and cut off 
all foliage, and reduce the length of the shoots to about 18 inches. 
A compost of 3 parts good loam, 1 part well decayed old manure, 
and some J-incli bones, about 3 lb. to a barrowful of compost. Mix 
all vrell together and keep in an open rainproof shed. Use either 7- 
or 8-inch pots, and be careful to pot very firm. If weather is dry 
after potting give them a watering with a fine rose can and put 
plants on a bed of ashes in the frame, but keep the lights off night 
and day until frosts threaten. 

Mar^chal Niel Rose in Greenhouse 

Q. In December I planted a Marechal Niel Rose in greenhouse. 
This has made four strong shoots, one 12 feet long and three some- 
what shorter ; these I have trained on separate wires about 6 inches 
from roof ; should the points of these be pinched out now (July) 1 
There are also side shoots growing from these four ; should they be 
stopped ? Kindly advise me. — J. M. P., Southend. 

A. Your plant has made very good growth. As to what you cut 
away depends upon the condition of the growths. If well hardened 



38 GARDENING DIFFICULTIES SOLVED 

only a few inches of extreme ends of all shoots need be removed, but 
if the shoots are soft and sappy then cut away 2 or 3 feet of each. 
There is yet time for the growths to ripen if you just pinch out 
the points and give as much air as possible, at the same time keep 
dry. About the early part of the year is soon enough for this Rose to 
start into new growth. Gut back the side or lateral growths in 
January to one or two eyes from main growth. 

Various Roses in Town Grsanhouss 

i^. I have two glasshouses, one is a cold hou^e 7 by 8 feet, and 
about 10 feet high, a leanto ; the gla.ss comes to within 6 inches of 
the ground. I should like to grow some Roses in it. No Roses will 
grow outside. There is a disused chemical works at the back, I 
suppose that is the reason, and also being near the city.— J. K., 
Glasgoic. 

A. You are of course heavily handicapped in being near a large 
city and also near chemical works. Still you should be able to grow 
some good Roses in the cold greenhouse if yoa provide the plants 
with good soil to root into and afford them liquid manure in 
the growing season. Under glass there is always a tendency for the 
Hydrid Perpetual Roses to run to wood instead of flowering. You 
must check this by pruning very sparingly. Treat the plants more 
as pillar Roses or as climbers. You could easily put Bamboo canes 
about .5 to 6 feet high in the tubs and tie growths loosely to them, 
then in pruning merely shorten back to one or two eyes the side or 
lateral growths that eventually appear. Caroline Testout would be 
much more serviceable than Victor Hugo. Instead of J. B. Clark we 
would advise you to plant Hugh Dickson, and if you could find 
room for a yellow plant Madame Ravary, which gives such delightful 
buds. 



CHAPTER II 
Carnations in Winter and Summer 

Perpetual Flowering Carnations Out of Doors 

Q. Are perpetual flowering Carnations of any value for growing 
out of doors ? — E. J. W., Hampton. 

A. Yes, they are invaluable. If put out in May tliey bloom all 
the summer, until October in fact. They are most accommodating. 
Plants that have flowered in the greenhouse throughout the winter 
will bloom out of doors the following summer, if planted out in 
May. They are put out in ground that has been well dug ; they 
need no attention beyond watering during dry weather, staking and 
an occasional application of artificial manure, this being sprinkled 
round about the plants and hoed in. 

Perpetual Floisering Carnations in Greenhouse 

Q. Can one grow Perpetual Flowering Carnations in an unheated 
greenhouse ? — X. Y. Z., Bude. 

A. No ; they need an average winter temperature of 55° ; that is 
to say that the thermometer must not fall below 45° in cold weather, 
while during sunny days it may rise to 60° or higher. When the 
latter temperature is reached a little air should be given. 

Perpetual Flowering Carnations from Cuttings 

Q. Is it diSicult to raise them from cuttings ? — Adrian, Snanage. 

A. No ; providing the material in which the cuttings are inserted 
is warmed. They are rooted most successfully in fine sand (silver 
sand is perhaps the best). Boxes some 3 or 4 inches deep are filled 
with sand, the cuttings are dibbled in and made as firm at the base 
as is possible. The boxes are then placed on the hot water pipes. 
It is wise to have the boxes prepared- a few days before the cuttings 
are put in so that the sand may get warm. If the sand is watered 
before the cuttings are put in, probably little more will be 
required. However, the sand must not be allowed to get really dry- 
The best cuttings are those taken from towards the base of flower- 
ing stems. They are put in preferably during January, February 
and March, although they may be inserted until June. The box 

39 




"as 
s z; o 

^ a; " 



C ^ X' 
'^ 5^ y. 




CARNATIONS IN WINTER AND SUMMER 41 



containing the cuttings is covered with a piece of glass ; this should 
be turned over every morning to allow the moisture that gathers 
to disperse. 

About Tree or Perpetual Floisering Carnations 

Q. Will you please advise me as to tree Carnations ? I received 
them in April, just out of thumb pots, the plants being 3 or 4 inches 
high. I potted into 60's in rich soil rather too tightly, I think, 
because the foliage grew somewhat crinkled. However, they got 
over that, and in July I potted on into 48's and 32's (according to the 
condition of the 
roots), this time in 
the Chrysanthe- 
mum compost with 
an extra liberal 
allowance of mor- 
tar rubbish, and 
ramming less hard 
than I do the 
Chrysanthemums. 
Some threw up 
stems for blooms, 
but these I pinched 
back close, and all 
are now (August) 
healthy and well 
on boards in the 
sun. The growths 
are 10 to 12 inches 
long, and pots full 
of roots. Kindly 
advise whether I 
shall be right to 
give similar treat- 
ment to that which 
usually suits Chry- 
santhemums. — J. 
I. P., Lewisham. 

A Yes- you when the cuttings abb well rooted and 

olinillfl trpnt tJiP potted OPP, THE TOP OP THE GUOWTH 

HUUUlU uieai lue IS PINCHED OUT TO INDUCE OTHER SHOOTS 

plants as regards to form. 




42 GARDENING DIFFICULTIES SOLVED 

potting and housing in the same way that is suitable for Chrysanthe- 
mums. But, of course, it is not advisable to ram down the compost 
too firmly. Some feeding will be necessary when the flower stems 
commence to run up. Leave space for top dressing. You were 
rather late in potting ; the final potting should be done in June. It 
is a mistake to stop the shoots at the time of potting. 

Winter Carnations 

Q. How should Perpetual Flowering Carnations be grown so as 
to provide flowers from October until April t — J. J., Bristol. 

A. Briefly, this is the method of treatment. Cuttings are inserted 
in January as already described. They will be rooted in C weeks. 
They are then potted in small pots, turfy soil with plenty of sand 
intermixed, being used. It is wise to give little or no air for a week 
afterwards, so as to help the plants to root quickly in the fresh soil. 
The plants are kept in the greenhouse until early ]\Iay. They are 
then put out of doors, or else in a cold frame ; the latter is pre- 
ferable, because heavy rains can be kept ofiF. They need all the 
fresh air possible. The pots are plunged to the rims in ashes, 
whether the plants are out of doors or in a frame. They must be 
given larger pot.'? as they need it, or in other words as soon as well 
rooted. It is usual to repot in April, and again finally in June, 
flower-pots of 6 or 7 inches diameter being used on the latter occa- 
sion. Use a soil mixture of turfy soil 2 parts, and old manure, such 
as that from a mushroom bed, 1 part. Failing this, use 1 part soot and 
I inch bones, 3 parts turfy soil. In September the plants are 
brought into the greenhouse and will begin to bloom in October. 
Probably no fire heat will be necessary at first to maintain a night 
temperature of 45° to 50°. The question of "stopping" or pinching 
out the points of the young shoots is an important matter : the 
object is to make the plants bushy. The first stopping becomes 
necessary in April when the plants are potted for the second time. 
The top of the little plant is pinched out, only some five joints being 
left. Several shoots will develop. These must also be stopped 
when about 3 inches long. Stopping the shoots should cease at 
the end of July. It is most important to keep the soil moist through- 
out the summer : this is accomplished by watering thoroughly where 
the soil appears to be getting dry. During the winter the plants 
need far less water than in summer, but the soil must still be kept 
moist ; an occasional sprinkling of fertiliser should be given, say 
every three weeks. 



44 GARDENING DIFFICULTIES SOLVED 

Twelve Good Perpetual Carnations 

Q. Can you give the names of 12 good varieties'? — Anxious, 
Birmingham. 

A. New sorts are being brought out everj- year now. The follow- 
ing are some of the best of those in commerce : Britannia, red ; 
Enchantress, pink ; Afterglow, rosy-cerise ; Jessica, white with red 
marking ; Mrs. Burnett, salmon-pink ; Rose Pink Eachantress, 
rose-pink ; Winsor, silvery-pink ; Victory, scarlet ; White Perfec- 
tion, a beautiful white ; Eoyal Purple, purple ; Mrs. Lawson, cerise- 
pink ; Harlowarden, dark crimson ; Black Chief, dark crimson ; 
Aurora, buff shade. 

Preparing Beds for Border Carnations 

Q. I am about to buy a collection of good varieties of Carnations. 
How should I prepare the ground for them ? — jVemo., Brighton. 

A . In order that this plant may bear up well in a hot, dry season, 
the soil should be dug deeply. As your soil has only six inches of 
good soil and thin clay below, we should advise you to have the 
ground dug 18 inches deep, taking care that the clay is kept at the 
bottom. A layer of manure should be put in the bottom and 
another layer 6 or 8 inches below the surface. Having so trenched 
the land you could then mark out the paths and put the soil on top 
of beds. You must look out for wireworm, as this pest is very pre- 
valent in old pastures. Give the soil a dressing of Vaporite or Kilogrub 
as you plant. We think for this season we should keep the plants in 
their pots during the winter, seeing that the soil is not ready- 
When the soil is prepared in good time then we prefer to plant 
out the rooted layers in October. A cold frame is a good place to 
keep the plants, and they are not afraid of cold and some frost. 
Keep the lights well tilted during wet weather ; in fact, the hardier 
they are brought up the better. A little lime added to the soil when 
trenching would be an advantage. Well rotted manure is best to 
use. A dressing of well rotted manure to the surface after planting 
is very helpful. 

Best Scarlet Border Carnation 

Q. Please say which is the best Scarlet Carnation.— 11'. P., 
Romford. 

A. The best Scarlet Carnation is Cardinal (Douglas). There is 
another one of this name. Twelve good Carnations for amateurs : 
Agnes Sorrel, Benbow, Charles Martel, Cardinal, Daffodil, Helen 



CARNATIONS IN WINTER AND SUMMER 45 

Countess of Radnor, John Pope, Lara, Miss Ellis, Miss Willmott, 
Trojan. 

Border Carnations from Cuttings 

Q. Will you please tell me if it is possible to grow Border 
Carnations from cuttings 1—E. D. S., Swansea. 




CARXATION ELIZABETH SHIFFNBR (OR ANGE-YELLOW), 
THE FINEST NEW BORDER CARNATION. 

A. Some people like to root border Carnations, and especially 
the Clove section, from cuttings, and October is the time to begin. 
They may be inserted in a sandy compost either in pots or boxes and 



46 GARDENING DIFFICULTIES SOLVED 

after being watered should be placed for the winter in a cold frame, 
which, being kept always close, preserves the leaves from flagging. 
Many of the Pinks also may be rooted in the same manner, the best 
cuttings being those broken off with a heel— piece of old stem. 
Mule Pinks should be treated similarly: some of these, of which 
Napoleon III. may be mentioned, require to be renewed annually 
from cuttings. 
Twenty-four Carnations that are Really Fragrant 

Q. So many Border Carnations are scentless, that I should be 
glad to learn of two dozen really fragrant sorts.— Z/e^em, Berby. 

A. Mr. James Douglas recommends the following as being 
fragrant varieties : Agnes Sorrel, Banshee, Beauty, Bella Donna, 
Bertie, Boadicea, Burn Pink, Castilian, Charm, Chloris, Countess of 
Paris, Cupid, Enid, Floradora, Helen Countess of Radnor, H. J. Cut- 
bush, Mr. W. Incledon, Much the Miller, Narses, Pink Beauty, 
Queen of Scots, R. Berkeley, Tantallon, Twilight. 
Best 12 Self and Fancy Carnations and 12 Picotees 

Q. I should be glad to know which you consider to be the best 12 
Self-coloured Carnations, the best 12 Fancy Carnations, and the best 
12 Picotees ?— B. 0. W., Bexley. 

A. Self-coloured Carnations : Daffodil, W. H. Parton, Cassandra, 
Miss Shiffner, Sir Bevys, Hildegarde, Isinglass, Benbow, Lady Her- 
mione, Miss Willraot, Mrs. E. Hambro', Francis Samuelson. Fancies : 
Argosy, Horsa, Monarch, Liberte, Lady Ardilaun, Merlin, Ivo 
Sebright, Richness, Yeoman, Professor Cooper, Banshee, Eony 
Buchanan. Picotees : Dalkeith, Mrs. W. Heriot, Hesperia, Childe 
Harold, Duchess of Roxburghe, Lady St. Oswald, Gronow, The 
Pilgrim, Lauzan, Daniel Defoe, Gertrude, Amy Robsart. 

Carnation Attacked by Belworm 

Q. Will you kindly hold a post mortem on enclosed corpse of 
Carnation, and announce result? The flower stalk looked gouty. — 
jS". J/. K; Sutton. 

A. The portion of stem was swarming with stem eel worm (Tylen- 
chus devastatrix) and its eggs. The full grown eelvvorm is about Vr inch 
long, and in appearance resembles a tiny eel, with both ends pointed, 
the hind end specially so. The refuse of infested plants should be 
burned, and the place whence they have been uprooted, in the case 
of Carnations, soaked with a solution of formalin (formaldehyde 
40 per cent,), 1 fluid oz. to 5 pints of water, in order to destroy the 



CARNATIONS IN WINTER AND SUMMER 47 

pests in the immediate vicinity of the diseased root, as well as where 
it has been. After this treatment, and in the course of a fortnight or 
three weeks, the ground may be dressed with basic slag and 6 oz. of 
kainitper square yard, forking into the ground about 6 inches deep, 
and leaving until February, then fork over the ground a spit (10 to 
12 inches) deep, breaking up well. Shortly afterwards, and before 
sowing seeds or setting plants, apply a top dressing, to be lightly 
pointed or raked in, of a mixture of 2 parts superphosphate and 

1 part sulphate of ammonia, applying 2 lb. of the mixture per rod, or 

2 oz. per square yard. As a further precaution against eelworm and 
other ground pests, the ground may be dressed with Vaporite. 

Diseases that attack Carnations 

Q. Can you give me a few notes on such diseases as commonly 
attack Carnations, together with preventives and remedies ? — U. T. J., 
Hereford. 

A. Several diseases cause sad work with Carnations, particularly 
mildew, green fly, eelworm, wireworm, spot disease of the leaves, 
and earwigs. If your plants are grown indoors a great deal may be 
done to prevent disease by giving suitable cultural conditions. A 
rather dry atmosphere is required, with free ventilation without 
draughts. Mildew may be kept in check by dusting affected plants 
with sulphur^ In the case of spot disease the worst of the leaves 
should be removed and burnt, and the remainder dusted with 
sulphur. Plants that are very badly affected ought to be burnt; 
plants affected by eelworms ought also to be burnt. Green fly 
may be kept in check indoors by fumigating, and outdoors by 
syringing with soft soap water into every 3 gallons of which J pint 
of paraffin has been well mixed. Wireworms often cause serious 
injury by boring through stems and roots. They may be caught 
by trapping with pieces of Carrot or Potato placed 1 inch or so 
beneath the surface. These traps ought to be examined each 
morning and the wireworms destroyed. Earwigs may be trapped 
by placing small pots partly filled with dry moss amongst the 
plants. Earwigs will get in amongst the moss for shelter, and may 
be caught and destroyed. 



CHAPTER III 

Sweet Pea Difficulties Made Clear 

Selection of Sweet Peas 

Q. Please say how you would improve on the following collection 
of Sweet Peas, most of which I have already got. 1, Zephyr ; 2, 
Crimson Paradise ; 3, Evelyn Hemus ; 4, Paradise Ivory ; 5, Paradise 
Carmine ; (!, Constance Oliver ; 7, Elsie Herbert ; 8, Olive Ruffell ; 
9, Mrs. Charles Foster; 10, Helen Paradise ; 11, Gladys Burt ; 12, 
Edna Unwin ; 13, Clara (Jurtis ; 14, Arthur Unwin ; 15, Master- 
piece ; 16, George North Improved; 17, Mrs. H. Bell; 18, Etta 
Dyke ; 19, ^Nlarjorie AVillis ; 20, Syeira Lee.— 7i. O., Ellon. 

A. The list of varieties is a strong one. I should add Douglas 
Unwin or Prince of Asturias for a maroon ; ilrs. Hardcastle Sykes 
or Princess Victoria for a blush ; The Marquis or Tennant Spencer 
for mauve ; and Helen Pierce for a veined blue. These will make 
up two dozen. 

Manure for Sweet Peas 

(J. I have prepared 2 -feet trenches for growing Sweet Peas next 
year, and have mixed with the soil, which is fairly rich, a good 
supply of j-iuch bones. In my yard I have a well which receives 
the drainings from the stables of six horses. Would the sediment 
and the liquid be safe applied now (November) 1 And what quantity 
should be used ? Would you advise letting it remain on the ground 
until spring or digginj; in at the time applied ? Would the result 
from this be equal to stable or cow manure?— i/. J. F., Portsmouth. 

A. On the whole the ground would benefit by the contents of the 
well ; the only drawback is that it may tend to make the soil slimy. 
If you have left the ground rough and lumpy you may safely put the 
stuff on direct, otherwise you should mix it with ashes before apply- 
ing it. You might put it on 2 inches thick. Leave it on the surface 
before turning it in. It could hardly bo so good as stable manure, 
because it >vould produce less humus ; still, it has got to be disposed 
of somehow. The best plan of all would be to use it on ground to 
be planted with ( ireens, and employ stable manure and chemicals for 
the Sweet Peas. 

48 



SWEET PEA DIFFICULTIES MADE CLEAR 40 

Sweet Pea Buds Falling 

Q. I wonder if you can tell me what causes my Sweet Pea buds 
to fall off just as they are coining out. The plants look perfectly 
healthy, but all the first flowers have been taken in this way, 
leaving the stalk on just as if the buds had been picked off. I 
enclose you some stalks, one of which has a bud just falling. — .S'. J., 
Oxted. 

A. The earliest buds often fall, and little anxiety need be felt as 
the later ones are not affected. The cold wet weather of which we 
have had so much this summer is no doubt responsible for the 
flowers falling. If you have been overdosing them with manure the 
buds would naturally fall. 

Prepaping Ground for Sweet Peas 

Q. I wish to grow Sweet Peas on ground which is of a very heavy 
nature ; about 18 inches down there is a kind of blue clay, which is 
sticky when wet — it is like cutting soap. I propose going down 
about 2 feet, putting in road grit and manure, mixing well. Should 
I be doing right in incorporating with the manure, etc., basic slag, or 
would lime do as well 1 If so, in what proportions should I use 
either, or both 1 Should kainit and lime be applied when preparing 
ground, or is it best to put on top of ground and hoe it in after 
trenches are filled ? — In Doubt, Enfield. 

A. Do not bring the clayey subsoil to the surface, but thoroughly 
break it up and leave it below. Apply the basic slag at the rate of 
4 oz. per square yard and mix it with the soil about 9 inches below 
the surface. Apply lime at the rate of 8 oz. per square yard, and 
put it on the surface. Both should be applied in the autumn, but the 
lime one month after the basic slag. Four ounces of kainit per square 
yard may be mixed with the latter and applied at the same time. 

About Stopping Sweet Peas 

Q. Is there any advantage in snipping off the tops of Sweet Pea 
plants when a few inches high ? — Doubtful, Harroiv. 

A. When Sweet Peas grow to the height of about 3 inches and 
are then stopped, it has the effect of making the plants break out 
from the base. Thus the Sweet Peas become bushy, producing more 
growths from the base than would otherwise be the case. Pinching 
back, provided it is not carried out to excess, also induces an 
increased formation of roots, which is an advantage, especially to 
floriferous plants like Sweet Peas. Plants which have been pinched 
E 



50 



GARDENING DIFFICULTIES SOLVED 



do not ultimately attain the same height as plants which are not 
stopped, that is providing other conditions are equal. At the same 
time, if the plants are stopped once only in their lifetime the 
difTerence in height is not very great. This method is chiefly 
advisable with "weakly plants. 

Gro-wing Sweet Peas in pots 

Q. Please give concise directions for growing Sweet Peas in pots 
to bloom from April to June. — E. W. 8., Southeni. 




THIS SWEET PEA IS OP THE A ARIETY DOROTHY 

BOKFOBD, AND WAS GROWN FROIW ONE SEED SOWN 

IN A MIDLAND GARDEN. 



52 GARDENING DIFFICULTIES SOLVED 

A. Seeds are sown in September, 5 or 6 seeds round the edge of 
a 5 inch wide flower pot. Keep in a cold frame until December, 
then bring in greenhouse. Temperature should not exceed r,0° 
without sunheat. Neither should it fall below 40° in cold weather. 
Use a fairly light soil, turfy soil two thirds, leaf soil and sand one 
third. In January the plants will be only about 6 inches high, but 
with a little sunshine they will grow rapidly, being by then well 
rooted. Keep the soil fairly moist. More water will be needed as 
growth becomes more vigorous- Give a little air when the ther- 
mometer registers .5.")° under the influence of sunshine. Occasional 
applications of Clay's Fertilizer much diluted may be given from 
March onwards. 

Sweet Peas Killed by Pea Mould 

Q. Can you tell me what is the matter with the Sweet Peas I 
send you 1 They hav6 been quite a failure. — K 0. H., Wal-iaU. 

A. The plants are quite dead at the roots, reduced to the con- 
dition of thin rusty wire, and the leaves are all dried up, browned, 
and more or less dead. They have been destroyed by the Pea 
mould (Peronospora trifoliorum var. viciae). Wet weather favours 
the fungus. With better weather the plants should improve, as the 
fungus is not only an early affection, but is also retarded by fine dry 
weather. .The ]ilants may possibly be benefited by watering with 
a solution of iron sulphate, i oz. to 1 gallon of water, using this 
along both sides of the row, but not over the plants, and if these 
have the rootstems sound it is likely they may recruit, otherwise 
there is very little hope of betterment. You may use the sulphate 
of iron solution once a week, and as a general fertiliser for Sweet 
Peas a solution containing i oz. each of superphosphate of lime 
and kainit (high quality), and |- oz. each of nitrate of soda and 
iron sulphate to 4 gallons of water. Of course, this must not be used 
where the iron suljjhate solution is employed, and it is advisable to 
alternate this with lime water, adding a tablespoonful of soot to 
each gallon of lime, forming the soot into a paste previously so that 
it can be readily mixed. All the diseased plants, as they go off, 
should be pulled up and burned, not leaving any part of the haulm 
in the ground, not even portions of leaves. 

Sinreet Peas in Same Spot Year after Year 

Q. My garden is so small that I shall be compelled to grow 
Sweet Peas in the same place year after year. How am I to treat 



SWEET PEA DIFFICULTIES MADE CLEAR 53 

the soil ? Will any system of manuring be successful, or must 
I have fresh soil for each crop ?— C. L. S., Surrey. 

A. It is advisable, though not really necessary, to remove a 
portion of the soil and replace it with fresh. Trench the ground 
3 feet deep, and put in some vpell rotted manure, and also a dressing 
of superphosphate at the rate of 4 oz. per square yard. The plants 
would derive much benefit from a dressing of superphosphate at the 
rate of 2 oz. per yard run of row while they are growing. Keep the 
powder from the haulm. 

Pig Manure for Sweet Peas 

Q. Will you be so good as to give me your opinion of pig manure 
for Sweet Peas ? I am digging my trenches now (November) 4 feet 
deep, and propose putting the pig manure under the bottom spit. 
The soil is 15 inches light top soil and fine sand underneath, no 
gravel or clay at all. Will lime be of any use in this soil, besides 
superphosphate of lime 1 — R. C, Surrey. 

A. Yes ; you may mix the pig manure freely with the soil 
about 10 inches below the surface. Do not use lime now, but 
apply superphosphate of lime at the rate of 2 oz. per yard run 
of row, Avhen the plants are growing freely. Commence in April 
and give applications every twenty days or so. 



CHAPTER IV 
Flower Garden Trials and Troubles 

How to Destroy IVorms on a Laurn 

Q. "Will you please tell me if there is any possible way of ridding 
a bowling green of worms, or of stopping them from lifting the 
surface in the autumn?— jr. W.. Reading. 

A. You may place 1 peck of lime in 20 gallons of water and stir 
the mixture well. Then allow it to settle and add another 20 
gallons of water. When the liquid has once more settled and is 
clear, water the lawn with it through a fine rosed watering-can. 
The worms will come to the surface, when they may be swept up. 
Apply in autumn and spring. 

Quantity of Lawn Seed to Sow 

(J. Can you tell me how much lawn seed to sow for a lawn 
of CUO square yards, — //. ./. E., Hnrron'. 

A. The usual ciuantity of lawn seed to sow is about 40 lb. to 
50 lb. per acre. To sow 600 square yards would therefore need 
about 5 lb. or 6 lb. of seed. Providing your ground is well prepared 
and level, the seed might be sown at any time now (March). Choose 
a quiet day when there is little or no wind to carry the seed about 
at the time of sowing, and be sure that you obtain good lawn seed 
from a reliable nurseryman. Sow across from north to south and 
from east to west. 

Weeds on Lawn 

Q. "Will you kindly advise me the best way to eradicate a weed 
from my lawn? This starts with small plants, and finally becomes 
quite a largo patch, and the.se patches are now spreading consider- 
ably. The weeds grow so close that little if any grass grows through 
hem. — /'"". N. Ihdton, East Sheen. 

A. Lawn sand will destroy Daisies on lawn, and would destroy 
this (Plaintain). Tliis is the cheapest and simplest way we know 
of getting rid of such weeds. It must be applied in spring, just 
before the grass begins to grow. It may be had of all seed merchants 
and sundriesmen, with directions how to use. It has the effect of 



FLOWER GARDEN TRIALS AND TROUBLES 55 

turning the grass brown for a time, but it quickly recovers.' Or 
you might dig up the roots with an old knife, and if necessary sow 
fresh seed. 

Hovr to Look After a La-wn 

Q. I have recently sown down a lawn. Please give me a few 
hints on how to attend to it during the season. — J/. T. E., 
Hampstead. 

A. Protecting the seeds until they have taken root is important, 
for if left unprotected birds will destroy more than half of them. 
Black thread stretched across the ground helps to keep them away. 
The young grass as soon as it starts grows rapidly at this time of the 
year (April), and at the end of three weeks after sowing it will have 
made sufficient progress to be safe from further molestation. Other 
means adopted for keeping birds away are netting, and setting up 
scarecrows with old clothes, etc. The young grass should be rolled 
as soon as it has attained the height of 2 inches. This consolidates 
the soil round the roots, and causes them to spread more freely. 
For the first three times the young grass is best cut with a scythe. 
It should be cut the first time as soon as it is 6 inches long and 
afterwards every three weeks, when for the rest of the season the 
lawn mower may be used, but the knives of the machine must not 
be set lower than J inch from the surface for the first month, and 
not at any tim.e to cut so low as to injure the heart of the young 
grass plants. If all has gone on well, the lawn may be lightly used 
for play at the end of the summer, but it would be better to defer 
doing so until the following season. Should the spring and summer 
prove to be exceptionally dry, the grass, especially in the early 
stages of growth, should receive copious waterings. 

Renovating the LaiKn 

Q. Is the present (October) a good time to set about improving 
a lawn. If so, what should be done? — Anxious, Stockpo7-t. 

A. One may do a great deal towards ensuring a good sward 
by attending to the lawn in the autumn. Now that the lawn mower 
may almost be discontinued, large weeds should be dug out, the 
holes filled v/ith soil, and the lawn well rolled — indeed, rolling in 
the autumn has a very beneficial effect, as it keeps the worms down 
and makes the green firm. Late in the autumn is the time to spread 
over the grass a light dressing of old manure and soot. It may not 
be very sightly, but it does improve the grass, and one can afford to 
put up with a little unsightliness during the winter months 



56 GARDENING DIFFICULTIES SOLVED 

Improving Neglected Laiwn 

Q. Would you tell me what I can do with a lawn which has 
been so neglected that the greater part consists of Plaintains. To 
root them up looks an endless task. — Doji; Wallingford. 

A. The best and most economical method of restoring a lawn is 
to feed it every autumn or spring time. Turf requires food like all 
other kinds of plant. Use the remains of a Cucumber bed or, better 
still, well rotted manure. Have it finely sifted and mixed with 
loam or soil, and give the turf a dressing of 2 lb. to the square yard. 
To repeat the quantity in February or March will do good. Plain- 
tains can be removed by sulphuric acid, 1 drop to the crown of each 
weed ; but as it is destructive of other than vegetable matter it 
must be confined in a bottle, allowing only 1 drop to escape. 

Moss On Walks 

Q. The walks in my garden are covered with moss. "What is the 
best way to get rid of it? — E. J. A'., WnUingfonl. 

A. The best way to destroy moss on gravel walks is to dig the 
gravel over, burying the moss in the bottom. Lay the gravel in 
the best position to throw off the water, and roll it down firmly. 
If the walk cannot be turned, sprinkle salt over the surface in 
sufficient quantity to give it a white appearance, picking a dry 
time for the work ; or use one of the advertised weed killers, mixed 
in the way advised by the manufacturers, iloss is often troublesome 
owing to the dampness of the soil ; and when this is the case nothing 
short of draining the spot will permanently get over the difiiculty. 

Top Dressing a Lawn 

Q. ily lawn is thin and the grass does not seem to flourish. 
Would a top dressing of manure improve it ? if so, when should 
this be applied 1 — Lawn, llerU. 

A. The best time for doing this is the late autumn ; the early 
part of November will be found suitable. It would be far better 
to apply a mixture of half rotted short manure, together with an 
equal bulk of old potting soil and a bag of soot, than to apply soot 
as a dressing alone, for we note that the soil is chiefly sand and 
is lacking in substance. Let the dressing be applied evenly all 
over the surface to the depth of about 1 inch, and use about half 
as much soot as potting soil. Leave the dressing to be washed in 
by the rains. In late January or February the dressing should be 
repeated. 



FLOWER GARDEN TRIALS AND TROUBLES 57 

When to Put down Weed Killer 

Q. Will you advise me which is the best time of the year to put 
down weed killer for the destruction of weeds on paths and drives 
— in the spring, when they begin to grow, or in the autumn or 
winter ? — A. £., Saxmundliam. 

A. The weed killer will have a more lasting effect if applied in 




THE BEAUTIFUL PALE BLUE DELPHINIUM BELLADONNA THAT 
COMES TRUE FROM SEED. HEIGHT ABOUT 4 FEET. 

spring. If applied in autumn or in winter, the winter rains will 
have the effect of washing away its poisonous properties, making 
it easier for weeds to make an early growth again than would be 
the case if applied in spring. 

Improving Lawn 

Q. 1, how can I improve my grass plot and when should I do it ? 
It is very heavy ; the wet weather has made it very pasty, and it is 
almost impossible to walk on it now (November). Appears to have 



58 GARDENING DIFFICULTIES SOLVED 

been laid on the heavy clay subsoil without proper (if any) drainage, 
has been neglected for many months. As I am only a tenant here 
for a short period, to take up the turf, drain the soil, and relay are 
out of the question. 2, what is the enclosed weed? and how can I 
eradicate it from the grass? — W. J. P., Hornsey. 

A. 1, the best thing you can do is to put on a good dressing of 
gritty soil, such as road drift, during the autumn and winter months. 
Two dressings will be sufficient. 2, the weed you enclose is a Butter- 
cup (Ranunculus), and the best way of getting rid of it is to put a few 
drops of oil of vitriol in the centre of each plant, or pull up every 
one, and as their habit is spreading this is a difficult matter. The 
vitriol is poisonous, and gloves should be worn when using the 
liquid. The latter may be dropped on the plants from a notched 
stick. 

Time to Apply Basic Slag 

Q. When is the best time to apply basic slag and how much 
should be given ? — Ignorant, Shrewsbury. 

A. This is a slow acting manure, rich in phosphates. It should 
be applied in the autumn, since it is some time before it is rendered 
availableas plant food. The finer basic slag is ground the more valu- 
able will it prove as a manure. It is not so valuable as superphos- 
phate for vegetables, but it is a most suitable manure for lawns. 

Making Brick Paths 

Q. I should very much like to alter the paths in my garden and 
make them brick paved. Would it be possible for me to do it 
myself '! Are new or old bricks to be used ? Is mortar or cement of 
any kind required ?— J/. /. ]>., Surrey. 

A. It is necessary to have a perfectly level foundation for laying 
bricks to form a path, and they must be cemented or concreted 
down, and the cracks where they join filled with the same substance. 
There should be a layer of cinders beneath the bricks some i or 3 
inches thick to keep the path dry. The only plan for you to follow 
would be to find a working bricklayer, request him to supply you 
with good hard red bricks and the necessary binding material, and 
pay him a trifle for showing you how to do the work yourself. Now 
is a good time for the operation before frosts come. Vou could place 
the bricks say one third or half an inch apart, fill the cracks with 
sandy soil and put Violet Cress, Mentha and other tiny plants 
there. 



60 GARDENING DIFFICULTIES SOLVED 

Violets in Frame in Winter 

Q. Please tell me how to provide for a supply of Violets during 
winter. — X. }'. Z., Reading. 

A. Make up a liotbed, half manure and half leaves, and put in 
the frame early in September. Upon this place 8 inches of soil ; 
turfy soil 2 parts, leafy soil 1 part. There must be enough manure 




Cv^w* p^ ,y£v J,"*- *;j^ 



A DELL OF FORGET-JIE-XOTS. 

put in to bring the plants within 2 inches of the glass. Fill the 
frame with manure and leaves, then tread it firmly, this will be 
about right. Plant the Violets ten days or so afterwards. Put them 
10 inches apart. Keep the frame closed for a few days to encourage 
them to form fresh roots. Subsequently give air on every favour- 
able occasion. They will not bloom if the frame is kept closed. 
Artificial heat is an advantage, because by this means frost is easily 
kept out, and the atmosphere made dry. Good varieties are Marie 
Louise and Lady Hume Campbell. 

How to Grow Violets 

Q. "Will you tell me when to plant Violets 1—E. M., Swansea. 



62 GARDENING DIFFICULTIEH SOLVED 

A. The best time to plant is during April. The best plants to buy 
are rooted runners. A border should be prepared by digging 
and mixing with the soil well rotted manure and leaf soil. It 
is not advisable to have the border in a shady spot as is often 
advised ; the plants should get several hours' sunshine. Plant 
the weak growing doubles 8 inches, and the strong growing single 
sorts 10 to 12 inches apart. They need little further attention 
during the summer months. Give water in dry weather and a 
dressing of manure to keep the border cool and moist. In August 
runners or growths will appear ; these must be cut off. By Septem- 
ber the plants will have formed good clumps ; towards the end of 
that month is the best time for planting Violets in frames for 
winter flowering. The frame should be in a sunny position. Violets 
are most successful when grown fresh annually. Some of the 
single sorts do pretty well if left alone for two or three years, but 
most sorts thrive best if fresh beds from rooted offshoots are 
planted every April. Princess of Wales, Princess Beatrice and 
Czar are among the best of the large blue-flowered singles. ]\Iarie 
Louise is a good double, lavender coloured ; Lady Hume Campbell, 
lavender blue ; Comte de Brazza, white, and Mile. B. Barron, 
blue, are other good double sorts. 

Best Plants for Shady Border 

Q. The best plants for a shady border with rather heavy, moist 
soil. — G. K., Kent. 

A. Anemone Japonica and varieties, Kniphofia (Tritoma), 
Liliums candidum, ilartagon, and croceum, Senecios clivorum and 
Veitchianum, Primulas Japonica and denticulata, Aquilegia (Colum- 
bine), Sedum spectabile. Foxgloves, Primroses, and Violets, hardy 
ferns in variety. 

Plants for Dry Border 

<J. The best plants for a dry border under trees. — S. T. J/., Ox/nr,!. 

A. Solomon's Seal, Hypericum calycinum, Doronicum Plantagi- 
neura, Lychnis coronaria, Funkia Sieboldii, Saponaria officinalis flore 
pleno, Foxgloves, Periwinkle (Viuca). 

Plants for Warm W^all 

Q. I have a brick wall, i feet 6 inches wide, 10 feet high, side of 
bay window facing south, novir occupied by Virginian Creeper 
Could I train Ivy Geranium or Solanum in place 'i—R. T. T., Fulh^vn. 

A. You must take out every bit of root of the Virginian Creeper, 



FLOWER GARDEN TRIALS AND TROUBLES 63 

then dig a hole 2 or 3 feet square, and fill with a mixture of the soil 
taken out, fresh turfy soil, a few shovels of decayed manure, and 
some coarse sand. Make it firm, and leave for a week to settle 
before planting. Neither Ivy-leaved Geranium nor Solanura is 
hardy, and would most probably die in winter unless thoroughly pro- 
tected. The best plant for your purpose is Ceanothus Gloire de 
Versailles, a climbing shrub with beautiful blue flowers in August. 

Ho\E to Preserve Buds and Flowers 

Q. Can you tell me if there is anything I can do to preserve 
flowers after they are cut? — /. K., Wimbledon. 

A. The following method of preserving flower buds so that they 
will bloom long after they are picked from the plant will interest 
you. Gather the buds when nearly ready to open, and seal up 
the ends of the stalks with sealing wax, wrap the buds in tissue 
paper, and put them in a tin box perfectly airtight. When the bud 
is wanted to open, cut off the sealing wax and put the stalk in water 
to which a little saltpetre has been added. The flowers can thus be 
had in bloom a month or two later than their usual season. I have 
tried the plan with Roses only, but I am told it is equally satis- 
factory with other dowers. 

To prevent Butterflies depositing their Eggs 

Q. Can you tell me if there is anything I can do to prevent the 
large white Cabbage butterfly from depositing eggs, and so to some 
extent rid my garden of caterpillars ? — A. E. W., Derby. 

A. The eggs of the large white butterfly are laid in clusters 
beneath the leaves, but the eggs of the small white, and also of the 
green veined white, are laid singly. This is important, as the eggs 
of the first are easily destroyed by looking for them as soon as the 
butterflies are noticed, and the pieces of leaves covered with them 
torn off and burned. This method will not answer for the small 
white or green veined white's eggs. You should have the chrysalids 
searched for and destroyed. These are chiefly found in outhouses, 
potting sheds, and like places under eaves or palings, or under pieces 
of rough timber. This can be done in winter time, and again in 
June or July when the first brood has pupated, the butterflies you 
recently saw being of that generation. Another means of reducing 
their numbers is to procure some strips of tin, and as many sticks 
pointed at one end for thrusting into the ground, cleft at the top, 
and so long as to be well above the Cabbages. Affix the sticks 
about 6 feet apart, smear the tin on both sides with a mixture of 



6i GARDENING DIFFICULTIES SOLVED 

resin and sweet oil, two thirds of the former melted, and one third 
of the latter, and insert this in the cleft of the stick, one for each. 
The butterflies resting on the strips of smeared tin become affixed. 

Value of House Slops 

Q. Are house slops of any value in the garden l—G. E. 8., Bucks. 

A. If diluted with twice or three times as much water they form 
a valuable manure for such plants as Koses, Dahlias, and all kinds 
of herbaceous plants grown in borders. However, we do not advo- 
cate their use for pot plants. 

Hardy Flowers for Early August 

Q. I want to have my border gay in early August. ^Miat should I 
plant ? — ir. F., Nevcastle-on-Tyne. 

A. In your part of North Britain you would require varieties 
that blossom about the third week in the south of England. You 
will find the following very good. Phloxes : Coquelicot, Fiancee, 
Beranger, and Le Mahdi ; Monkshood (Aconitum Napellus bicolor), 
Anemone .Japonica rosea and alba, Anthemis sulphurea, Aquilegias 
of sorts, Asclepias tuberosa, Aster Bessarabicus, Plume Poppy (Boc- 
conia cordata), Bellflower, Campanula persicaefolia Moerheimi, 
Cephalaria Alpina, Chrysanthemum maximum King Edward VII., 
Chelone barbata, Coreopsis grandiflora, Gaillardiagrandiflora, Delphi- 
niums of sorts, Echinops ritro, Geum Heldreichii, SunHower (Heli- 
anthus rigidus), Heuchera sanguinea, Inula Hookerii, Lychnis chal- 
cedonica fl. pi., Papaver pilosum, Jacob's Ladder (Polemonium 
Richardsoni), Kudbeckia laciniata plena, Scabiosa Caucasica, Sta- 
tice latifolia, Gypsophila paniculata, Torch Lily (Kniphofia corallina 
Pfitzerii). 

Making a Small Pond 

Q. I should be very glad of directions as to the making of a 
small pond in my garden. — //. S-, Woking. 

A. You should excavate the soil to the required depth and 
then puddle the bottom and sides with clay, the layer of clay being 
at least 4 inches thick. An edging of stones fixed with cement 
would look best, the stones being irregular in shape. Yes ; an 
amateur should be able to do the work. As you intend to allow 
ducks to go on the pond, plants as an edging would not answer 
well. The excavation of the soil would cost 6d. per cubic yard, but 
the cost of the carting, clay, stones, cement, and other work would 
depend largely upon local charges and facilities for obtaining material. 



FLOWER GARDEN TRIALS AND TROUBLES 65 

Flowering Plants for Heavy Soil 

Q. My garden soil is clayey and very wet in winter. Many plants 
do not thrive. Can you give me a list of suitable sorts ? — J. A. B., 
Southall. 

A. It is more than probable that the real fault of your garden 
lies in its being badly drained. One row or two rows of drainpipes 
placed about 2 feet below the surface, with a gradual fall to a 
proper outlet, would almost certainly improve the nature of your 
garden soil. There are certain flowering plants which thrive fairly 
well in a soil such as yours. Thus in addition to Irises and 
Montbretias, both of which flourish in your garden, you might 
try Sunflowers, Heleniums, Delphiniums, TroUius, Michaelmas 
Daisies, Hollyhocks, Lupins, and Aconite. There are several 
ornamental and flowering shrubs that would also give a good account 
of themselves ; for instance. Wistaria, Clematis, and Lonicera for 
pergolas and arches. Lilac, Laburnum, and Flowering Currant in 
the shrubbery. The application of quicklime when the ground is 
vacant tends to lighten a soil ; fresh or green manure from the 
farmyard should b3 avoided, as it increases the tenacity of a heavy 
clay. Long strawy manure, however, helps to lighten and aerate 
the soil by means of the small channels made by the long straw. 

A Common Disease of Aster 

Q. Please tell me what is the matter with the enclosed Asters. 
I shall probably lose all I have through this disease.— .£". A. T., 
Stockport. 

A. The plants are afi"ected by the disease popularly known as 
blackleg, the roots dying and the rootstem turning brown and then 
black, and this extending to parts above ground. The plants become 
stunted, cease growing, and die. This has been attributed to various 
causes, such as attack by a white worm, called the Aster worm 
(Enchytraeus parvulus), but there is no evidence of this pest in 
your examples. The disease is of a fungoid nature and a close ally 
of the sleeping disease of Tomatoes and other plants. Resting 
spores remain dormant for a season, then germinate, forming a 
mycelium capable of attacking the rootlets of Asters. By this 
mycelium only can the plants be attacked, all attempts to inoculate 
above ground portions of the plant being futile. It is suggested to 
dress the ground with quicklime at the rate of h lb. per square 
yard, slaking and mixing well with the soil, sprinkling on the 
turned up surface 2 oz. of kainit, leaving for the rain to wasTi 
p 



66 GARDENING DIFFICULTIES SOLVED 

in. This is preferably done in autumn, and in early spring, before 
cropping again, the ground is forked over and a dressing of steamed 
bone meal applied, breaking up and mixing well. 

Wallflovrers Not a Success 

Q. Can you tell me why my Wallflowers are not a success? I 
give them ordinary, careful tKntmQ^t.— Disappointed, Shrewsbvry. 
A. Exceptionally firm planting is needed by this plant, which can 




HARDY CYCLAjrEX GROWING AjroXG FERNS. 

be seen flourishing on old walls where there would seem to be little 
root hold. Half the Wallflowers that turn yellow and die in 
gardens do so because winds have loosened them in the soil ; directly 
they become ill insect pests fasten upon them, and so wireworms 
and other creatures are generally blamed for the mischief that was 
first wrought by a careless gardener. Rich soil is needed for growing 
fine flowers ; it is a customary error to plant Wallflowers in dry, 
stony, unnouri.shed ground just because they are known to live on 
walls. If any gardener will examine wall specimens he will not 
find them with large, lustrous foliage and immense richly coloured 
blooms, such as we now demand from the bed and border specimens 
—unless they have been especially cared for in their lofty nooks. 




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68 GARDENIXG DIFFICULTIES SOLVED 

The Best Bedding Geranium 

Q. I vvisli to have a blaze of colour in one bed and prefer to plant 
Geraniums. Which is the best variety "i — Hopeful, Chestei: 

A. Zonal Pelargonium Paul Crampel is described as richest fiery- 
scarlet in colour, with large flowers and trusses and fine foliage. A 
truer description was never given of a Zonal Pelargonium. Amateurs 
who have not yet grown this variety in their flower beds should do 
so. To obtain the best effect it is best to allow each plant ample 
space to grow in, and, if possible, to devote one large bed to them 
rather than mix them with other varieties. As a rule Zonals should 
not be planted in a rich soil ; but the soil may be rich for Paul 
Crampel. It will then grow luxuriantly and produce trusses of 
flowers as large as the crown of one's hat. 

How to Grow the Flame Nasturtium 

Q. Will you please tell me the best way to grow Tropaeolum 
speciosum 1 Ought I to start with seeds or plants ? — C. F., Cob/ton. 

A. You will have the greatest chance of success with this lovely 
flower if you obtain rhizomes, or underground stems, which are thick 
and fleshy, and somewhat like those of the bindweed in genera 
appearance. These ought to be planted 2 to 3 inches deep in fairly 
good, moist, loamy soil, in a north, north-west, or west aspect. 
Plant in autumn or spring. In some gardens it grows like a weed, 
whilst in others it is most difficult to establish. There is really no 
accounting for its perverseness sometimes, for if the conditions under 
which it thrives excellently in other places are apparently copied in 
every detail it fails to succeed. 

Staking Perennials and Berried Shrubs for Wall 

. Q. What is the best way to stake hardy perennials 3 to 4 feet 
high to maintain a natural appearance and afford protection from 
high winds ? What are the best berry bearing shrubs suitable for 
walls 1. also in the form of bushes for beds or borders '? — A. .S'., Brij:- 
ton Rill. 

A. There are two ways open to you in staking your perennials. 
One method is to tie four or five stakes round each clump and run 
several rows nf string round them. The other is to thin out the 
shoots well, then stake each one separately, taking care to insert the 
stakes so as to give each jilant its natural position . The best ever- 
green wall shrubs are Crataegus Pyracantha, C. crenulata, Cotone- 
aster microphylla, C. buxifolia, and C. angustifolia. For borders all 




SPCCESSFUL PLANTING OF A WALL IX A SUBURBAN 

GARDEN. 



70 GARDENING DIFFICULTIES SOLVED 

the above may be grown except Cotoaeaster angustifolia, -whilst in 
addition Pernettya mucronata and Arbutus Unedo for a large grow- 
ing shrub may be included. 

Making a Windour Box 

Q. I am anxious to make a few window boxes. Can you tell me 
how to proceed 1 — Ellen, S. Wales. 

A. Window boxes may be made in a variety of designs and with 
many different materials. Small branches of unpeeled Larch are 
very useful and effective for covering the fronts of boxes. They can 
be arranged in diamond or star patterns, or simply nailed on vertically, 
with the ends rounded. Virgin cork can be used in the same way, 
sawing it carefully when working out designs with it, and breaking 
it up roughly when making a box with a simple rustic covering. 
More elaborate and fanciful boxes are made by using hearth or 
paving tiles, and enclosing them within a border of wooden mould- 
ing or wrought ironwork. Be sure to make holes for drainage in 
the bottom of the box, and put a strip of wood at each end of the 
box to keep the latter from contact with the window sill. 

Should Gladiolus Bulbs be Lifted? 

Q. Is it wise or necessary to lift Gladiolus bulbs every autumn 
and store them during winter? — W. M., Stafford. 

A. Only a few Gladioli, principally natives of Europe and Asia 
Minor, are quite hardy in the greater portion of the British Isles. 
The others are best treated as half hardy subjects, that is, the bulbs 
should be lifted in the autumn when the leaves become yellow 
throughout. Store them in a cool place where the frost cannot 
reach them until late March or early April, when they should be 
planted out. 

Carnations and Dahlias for Exhibition 

t 

Q. I should be glad of a selection of first class varieties of Carn- 
ations and Dahlias that have figured prominently at recent shows. 
— Carnation, Lanes. 

A. The following Carnations and Picotees are selected from the 
best stands shown at recent exhibitions : Carnatio)is — Sir Galahad 
and Mrs. Eric Hambro, white ; Seagull, blush ; Daffodil, yellow ; 
Carmania, pink ; Bonnie Dundee, scarlet ; W. H. Parton, deep 
crimson ; Cantor, purple. Picotees — Miss Evelyn Cartwright, light 
red edge ; Lady Douglas Galton and Togo, yellow ground ; Amy 



FLOWER GARDEN TRIALS AND TROUBLES 71 

Robsart, heavy purple edge ; Carrie Goodfellow, scarlet edge. The 
Dahlias which follow are arranged according to the average number 
of times they have been staged at the National Dahlia Society's 
exhibitions held in recent years. Six Cactus Dahlias— J. B. Eiding, 
J. H. Jackson, Pearl, Mrs. Edward Mawley, Florence M. Stredwick, 
and Nelson. Four Show or Fancy Dahlias— R. T. Eawlings, Mrs. 
Gladstone, John Walker, and Duchess of York. This year's novelty 





-'yM-'-'. 



'^'f- 













PABONY FLOWERED DAHLIAS. 

Tom Jones, is also worthy of a place. Four Pompons — Bacchus, 
Nerissa, Tommy Keith, and Darkest of All. 

Forty of the Best Cactus Dahlias 

Q. I enclose a list of Dahlias (grown this year) which, thanks to 
llu Gardener, I have been very successful with, and would be very 
pleased if you would kindly correct the list so as to represent forty 
of the best Dahlias up to date. Alpha, Beacon, Britannia, Columbia, 
Coronation, Cloth of Silver, Cockatoo, Dainty, Daisy, Daisy Easton, 
Flag of Truce, F. M. Stredwick, Fairy, Harbour Lights, H. W. Sillem, 



72 GAEDENING DIFFICULTIES SOLVED 

Hyacinth, H. Shoesmitli, J. H. Jackson, J. B. Piiding, Kathleen 
Bryant, Lord of ilanor, Manxman, Mrs. Grinstead, Mrs. Castleton, 
Mrs. Wilkinson, Mrs. McMillan, Primrose, Pilot, Pearl, Pink Pearl, 
Pink Perfection, Purple Jacksoa, R,ev. A. Hall, Ked Piover, Star, 
T. Parkin, T. G. Baker, A'ictorian, Wm. Marshall, White Swan. — 
J. B., Aintree. 

A. Your list is a fairly comprehensive one, and includes prac- 
tically all the older sorts worth growing. In weeding out the inferior 
sorts, we should recommend omitting the following : Alpha, Beacon, 
Dainty, Red Rover, Fairy, Coronation, Manxman, Pearl, Pink 
Perfection, Daisy, Britannia, and Pink Pearl, and in place of these 
add Snowdon, white ; Rev. Jamieson, pink ; Saxonia, crimson ; 
Brigadier, bright crimson ; Monarch, bronzy red ; Harold Peerraan, 
yellow ; Mercury, yellow striped crimson ; C. E. Wilkins, salmon, 
pink ; Flame, scarlet ; Ivernia, fawn ; Helium, yellow and orange ; 
and Nelly Riding, crini.son tipped white. This would bring your 
collection right up to date. We might, however, point out that for 
garden decoration only some of the sorts discarded are very useful 
but we take it exhibiting is your chief aim. 

Failure -with Tufted Pansies 

Q. I should be glad of a few hints as to the cultivation of these, 
I seem to have little success with them. They appear to be 
attacked by some disease. — B. S. K., Lincoln. 

A. In October or November the plants may be lifted and 
divided. In dividing, each portion should have a few young growths 
and some roots ; place them in rows 6 inches apart and 3 inches from 
plant to plant in any convenient ground of a friable soil. Dust 
lightly with air slaked lime and soot to keep down slugs and other 
predatory pests. The plants can be lifted carefully in eavly spring, 
say February or as .soon as the weather permits afterwards, and 
placed in the flowering quarters. This procedure gives opportunities 
for manuring and preparing the ground for their reception . Those 
plants that have turned quite yellow in the leaf and appear to 
be dead at the roots, should be cleared away and burned, removing 
as much of the rootstem as possible. It is evident that they are 
infested by the Mola mould. The fungus is tided over winter 
by resting spores in the rootstems of the diseased and dead plants, 
hence the need for their removal. They should not occupy the same 
ground again for a year at least. The ground where the collapsed 
plants have been should be given a dressing of basic slag, 1 lb. per 



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74 GARDENING DIFFICULTIES SOLVED 

square yard, and 6 oz. of kainit, digging in about 6 inches deep. 
Leave the soil rough during winter, and in February fork over a spit 
deep, mixing and breaking up well by taking small spits. 

Plants for Bank 

Q. My house is one of a terrace facing south-east, on high ground 
facing the sea. In front is a stiff bank, the soil of which is shallow. 
Nothing has grown there yet but weeds. Could you recommend or 
suggest an economical way of laying it out 1 It is too stiff for grass, 




OHOCDSES IN THE GRASS. 

as I could not use a mower. I have thought of dwarf shrubs or Ice 
Plant.— r. H. W., Dover. 

A. You could cover your bank effectively, and at the same time 
make it so that it could be easily kept at little or no after cost, by 
planting groups of various free growing shrubs, such as double Gorse, 
French Gorse, Cornish Heath, Ling, Heather, Lavender, Cistuses, 
Rock Roses (Helianthemums), Cotton Lavender, and Genista pilosa. 
Plant large irregular shaped masses of each in such a manner that 
the different sorts of thing.s run one into the other, in a natural 
manner. Such a method of planting forms one of the very be.^t 
kinds of wild gardening, for an ugly bank can be made effective 



FLOWER GARDEN TRIALS AND TROUBLES 75 

during the whole of the year, and gives exceedingly little trouble 
when the plants are once established. You could, of course, use Ice 
Plants (Mesembryanthemums), but the other things would have the 
best appearance. 
If you desired it, 
a few flowering 
trees could be in- 
troduced if the 
position is not too 
wind swept. 

Hardy Flowers 
for Sunny Bor- 
der 

Q. Can you sug- 
gest hardy peren- 
nials for a sunny 
dry border backed 
with a 3 feet wall ' 
Border faces south, 
but gets some 
shade from a large 
Pear tree. From 
the rough plan I 
enclose, you will 
see I have Holly- 
hocks next the 
wall, then a gap 
of 2 feet at present 
planted with Can- 
terbury Bells, and 
some bedding 
plants in front. I 
propose putting 

Brompton Stocks ^^^^^, primulas in a gakde.v in the 
m the gap this north of England. 

autumn, but want 

to put other plants as well in between to flower later. I want them 
to be about 3 feet high to hide unsightly stalks of Hollyhocks. 
White Phlox would look well, but in such a hot position would not 
last any time. I do not care for yellow as it clashes so with bed- 
ding plants. I thought of Gypsophila, which does well here, witli 




76 GARDENING DIFFICULTIES SOLVED 

perhaps a few Phloxes in between. Is there a flowering shrub that 
would do in such a border as mine 1 Also would you be good enough 
to tell me how you increase Gypsophila and when is the time to do it 1 
I buy small roots. The first year they do not do much, but the 
second they are 1 yard across. Our soil is light but good. — To and 
Fro, Kent. 

A. Certainly Gypsophila would do well in such a position, but 
Phlox requires a very moist soil, and unless you can plant in a sunk 
bed and flood them well in summer we should advise you to omit 
these plants. Some of the large flowered Ox-eye Daisies, such as 
Chrysanthemum maximum M. Prichard, would be fine. Achillea 
The Pearl is a fine showy plant. Hydrangea paniculata would be 
very beautiful, so also would Philadelphus Lemoinei erectus, which 
flowers earlier than the Hydrangea. Then there are some of the 
white flowered hardy ( 'hrysanthemums such as Belle Chatelaine, and 
white flowered Michaelmas Daisies such as polyphyllus. Aster 
vimineus is also a charming small flowered plant. You can in- 
crease Gypsophila paniculata by seed or cuttings. Sow the seeds in 
March and transplant the seedlings. 

Pruning White Jessamine 

Q. There is a White Jessamine covering an arbour in my garden. 
It is a thicket of growth. How should I prune it? — W. J. C, 
Wimbledon. 

A. You may allow a few main branches to remain almost their 
full length to form a base from which the flowering branches will 
spring. The secondary branches may then be cut well back during 
winter to within 1 foot or even less, say two or three buds, of the 
base of the previous year's shoots. The mass of branches which 
usually form at the base of such plants should be cut away each year, 
as they never flower satisfactorily and only serve to weaken the 
plant. Do not allow too many main branches to remain, or they will 
choke the plant up. The object should be to let as much sunlight 
and air as possible have free access to all parts of the plant. 

Making the most of a Garden Frame 

Q,. I have a garden frame. How can I use it to the best advan- 
tage 1 — /I/. J/., ]Vorthi)ig. 

A. The frame comes iu very useful for salads, Strawberries, etc , 
early in the season. It may also be usefully employed to grow 
Cucumbers in during summer. I have wintered Cauliflowers, 



FLOWER GARDEN TRIALS AND TROUBLES 77 

Lettuce, and Calceolarias, protected Strawberries intended for 
forcing, hardened oif bedding plants, and still had a good crop of 
summer Cucumbers out of the same pit, and with very little trouble 
indeed. Half hardy and deciduous ferns, and plants intended for 
forcing, may be wintered therein with safety by simply throwing a 
few mats over the lights at night and during sharp weather ; while 
in the early spring a crop of early Potatoes and Radishes may be 
had, and these may be got out early enough for growing Cucumbers 
and for ordinary propagating purposes. For raising seeds not re- 
quiring bottom heat I have found them of the greatest service — in 
fact, a cold frame need never be empty at any period of the year. 
Prom March until the end of May they may be occupied in harden- 
ing off Celery, Dahlias and other bedding plants, and from that 
time until the month of September by crops of Cucumbers and 
Melons, and in bringing on such subjects as Fuchsias, Petunias, 
Pelargoniums, Balsams, etc. ; from September till spring comes 
round again they may be filled with Cauliflowers, Calceolarias, and 
Strawberries that are intended for forcing purposes, and may be used 
for protecting winter salads, or anything of a half hardy nature. 

Bulbs for Early Flowering 

Q. Can you tell me which are the most suitable bulbs for forcing 
into bloom quite early, so as to have flowers to cut, say, in .January. — 
E. T. W., Hendon. 

A. For ease in culture and forcing into flower the amateur will 
find Roman Hyacinths and the Paper White Narcissi the best bulbs 
to secure. Pot in August and September. Bunch flowered Narcissi 
are useful when good bulbs are secured, but we have never found 
them give such satisfaction in a general way as do the Paper Whites. 
Place Roman Hyacinths as close together as they will go in 5- to 6-inch 
pots, and the Narcissi may well go into those 7 and 8 inches in diame- 
ter. Boxes can, of course, be used for both kinds of bulb, but these 
are more suitable for the large grower than the amateur with 
perhaps, one small house and a frame or two. Early Tulips of the 
Van Thol section may be secured and potted in September ; these 
are small and not in such favour as are the larger flowering sorts, 
but they are bright and, on account of their early flowering tendency, 
extremely useful. 

Montbretias not Flowering 

Q. I cannot understand how it is that my Montbretias do not 
bloom regularly. They are in good soil. — Amateur, Southampton. 



78 gardenin(t difficulties solved 

A. Almost every year we hear complaints regarding Montbretias 
failing to bloom, and questions as to the cause of this. In at least 
nine cases out of ten this reluctance to bloom can be traced to 
similar causes. The mistake is made of leaving the bulbs in one 
position year after year, and as they increase so rapidly the soil 
becomes impoverished, the result being inevitable — little or no bloom. 
But if they are lifted, divided, and replanted about every three years, 
very different results will be obtained. Choose the sunniest position 
possible, 

About Anemones 

Q. The best soil, position, and time to plant Anemones. — G, E., 
Surrey. 

A. The Anemones about which, we presume, you require inform- 
ation are the Poppy Anemone (A. coronaria), the Scarlet Windflower 
(A. fulgens), and the St. Brigid varieties. The position must be a 
sunny one, the best time to plant is September and October, although 
it may be done as late as the end of January. They thrive in well 
drained, light sandy soils, which should be freely manured. A mulch- 
ing of leaf mould is very beneficial early in the year. Plant the roots 
about 3 inches deep, and 4 to 6 inches apart according to size. 

Keeping Dahlias Through the 'Winter 

Q. Can you tell me how to keep Dahlias through the winter ! — 
Alpha, Bermondsey. 

A. Do not cut the plants down until the frost has well 
blackened them, and sever them about 1 foot above the ground, 
attaching the label of each securely to the stem. The lifting of 
the roots should be very carefully performed, using a fork. Do not 
be particular about removing too much soil ; it affords little protection 
to the tubers. The roots should be thoroughly dry before storing, 
but this must not be accomplished by artificial means ; if there 
is no sun place them in a cool, airy position, free from damp, and in 
a day or so they should be ready for their winter quarters. A 
dry, frostproof cellar is the best position for them, but those not 
possessed of this accommodation will find a cupboard or some similar 
place answer the purpose quite well, so long as it is dry, cool, and 
frostproof. During winter an occasional examination is necessary 
to remove any roots that may by chance have decayed. 



CHAPTER V 
The Greenhouse Gay 

To Kill Green Fly in Greenhouse 

Q. I have a greenhouse 9 by 5 feet, and I am removing into it 
about thirty Chrysanthemums — Japanese and incurved varieties. I 
want to fumigate them with the XL ALL vaporising compound, in 
the liquid (I suppose this is one of the best preparations for green fly, 
etc. 1} and should be glad to know how much liquid would be 
required to fumigate them. Would it in any way injure the flowers if 
they wei-e in bloom when it was done ^ — Constant Reader, Ulverston. 

A. Yes ; if you use XL ALL vaporising compound according to 
the instructions given with it, all the insect pests will be killed. 
Place the lamp on the ground near the centre of the house. A 
dessertspoonful would not be suflScient, but a tablespoonful would. 
Keep the ventilators closed all night, opening them the following 
morning. If not successful the first night use the compound again the 
following night. If the flowers are dry they will not be damaged. 

Fern Fronds Turning White 

Q. I enclose a fern frond. Could you tell me what is the reason 
for its turning white like that 1 I have several varieties of this fern, 
and they all are attacked by insects. — H. T., Macclesfield. 

A. The reason for your fern fronds turning white, as you describe, 
is that they are covered with the small insect known to gardeners as 
thrips. The insect is known scientifically as Heliothrips adonidum, 
and feeds on almost any kind of plants. The insects are usually 
most prevalent on plants that are growing in a temperature that is 
too high and an atmosphere that is too dry for them, and a bad 
attack is a serious matter and denotes bad culture. Your best plan 
is to cut away all the worst of the fronds, and burn them. Then dip 
the plants in an insecticide, such as Fir tree oil mixture or a nicotine 
mixture, several days running, and well fumigate the houre once a 
fortnight for the next two months. Lower the temperature, keep 
the house well damped down and the plants well syringed, and you 
will soon see an improvement. 

79 



80 GARDENING DIFFICULTIES SOLVED 

Heating Apparatus for Small Greenhouse 

Q. I should be glad of your advice as to the best method of heating 
my greenhouse. — IC. X. Y., Rutland. 

A. Small oil stoves are very cheap, and fairly effective in keeping 
out frost ; but they require very careful attention, else the fumes 
would be injurious to your plants. A small boiler (tenant's fixture), 
such as the Loughborough or Invincible, would be the most satis- 
factory for you in every way. Such a boiler costs about £2 10s., and 




CUTTINCiS OF TUFTED PANSIES. ONE BAD CUTTING OX THE 
LEFT, THREE GOOD OX THE KIGHT. 

the pipes are not expensive. These boilers are fixed in the wall of 
the house, are fed from the outside, and the chimney is also outside. 
They maintain a good, steady heat, and are quite safe and most 
efficient. 

Maidenhair Fern in Winter 

Q. Can I keep Maidenhair Ferns nice and green throughout the 
winter 1 and if so, what do they require ?— A'. Y. Z., London . 

A. Yes ; you can keep your ferns green throughout the winter, for 
it is not natural for them to die down. You do not say whether you 
have got them in a greenhouse or dwelling room. If they are in a 



THE GREENHOUSE GAY 



81 



greenhouse a minimum temperature of 45° to 50° Fah. and a maxi- 
mum of 50° to 55° should be kept. The pots should be stood on a 
cool ash or pebble bottomed stage, and the stage and floors of the 
house should be damped down twice a day, to keep the atmosphere 
moist. Do not let the plants become dry, but at the same time be 
careful not to over water them ; they will not require more than 
half the water they did in summer. About once every ten days give 
a little weak manure water if the pots are well filled with roots, but 




WELL GROWN HYDRANGEA PLANTS, TWO YEARS OLD. 

not otherwise. Keep a sharp look out for insects, and if thrips 
appear fumigate lightly two or three nights running. If in a dwell- 
ing room, much the same treatment will be necessary ; keep out of 
draughts, and in the event of cold nights stand the plants away 
from the windows. 

Hydrangeas not Flovfering 

Q. I have about 600 Hydrangeas in 5-inch pots ; for some reason 
they did not flower this spring. They have been outside since June, 
the wood now (September) being well ripened. I want to get them 
in flower by the middle of May next. Will you kindly say when to 
cut down and subsequent treatment ? — H. P., Appleby. 



82 GARDENING DIFFICULTIE.S SOLVED 

A. As the wood is well ripened you should plunge the pots in 
ashes or tree leaves during the winter, and then put the plants in 
warmth in spring, in order to get flowers by the middle of May. If 
you can spare a cool frame, put the plants in it, and protect them 
only from frosts. It will not be necessary to cut down the plants 
really, but to lengthen the flowering period you may cut down some 
of them to good basal buds when you place them in heat in the new 
year. Feed liberally when the flower buds commence to develop. 

Keeping Pansy Cuttings through the Winter 

Q. I wish to know if the cuttings from Pansies will keep during 
the winter in an attic, and if so, should I cover with anything to 
protect from cold ? I do not possess a greenhouse. — C. I. ir., Kent. 

A. It is not necessary to put Pansies in either a greenhouse or 
attic in order to keep them through the winter. If subjected to such 
treatment the plants would be greatly weakened. Make up a nice 
bed in the garden, and grow the young plants there. If very severe 
weather comes fix a few arched sticks in the border and then put 
mats on them. 

Cineraria and Calceolaria during Winter 

Q. Can I keep these plants during the winter without artificial 
heat ? — Enthusiast, Doncaster. 

A. The Calceolarias will withstand a lower temperature than 
Cinerarias, but neither will survive being frozen. If the winter 
proves to be a mild one, and you make provision for placing mats 
over the plants in frosty weather, you may succeed in keeping these 
plants ttirough the winter in an unheated greenhouse. 

All about Fuchsias 

Q. Would you give a few practical notes on growing Fuchsias 
as I am anxious to take up their cultivation?— /S'joj'iHiv/. 

A. Fuchsias may be grown in pots for the greenhouse or window ; 
in window boxes either as tall plants or trained to hang down over 
the front of the boxes ; in baskets hanging from the greenhouse 
roof, in the flower garden, and in tubs. A half shaded position is 
one in which few flowering plants do well, yet for a window box with 
a northern aspect Fuchsias are the first plants I would recommend. 
Varying weather conditions in summer have comparatively little 
effect on Fuchsias. They are increased best by cuttings. Spring is 
the best time to put in cuttings. Vigorous young growths should be 



THE GREENHOUSE GAY 83 

selected 2 to 3 inches in length. Eemove the leaves from the lower 
half of the cutting close to the stem with a sharp knife, cutting the 
stem through immediately below the joint. One cutting may be 
placed in the centre of a small pot, or several round the side of one 4 
inches in diameter. A suitable soil consists of equal parts of loam 
and leaf mould, with which should be mixed plenty of sand. Fuchsia 
cuttings will readily root under a bellglass or cloche in the window 
of a dwelling house, or, better still, in a warm greenhouse. The 
young plants will soon require potting, one being placed in a pot 
Ij inches across. If grown for the greenhouse or window, or for 
planting outside during the summer months, the tip of the young 
shoot is removed when the plants are 4 to 6 inches high. To obtain 
tall pyramids the central shoot is supported by a strong stake, the 
side growths also being encouraged. The latter must be stopped 
as often as each shoot has made two pairs of leaves, till the plant 
attains the required size. For hanging baskets and window boxes 
I can strongly recommend Scarcity and Madame Cornellison . It 
will be found most convenient to use wire baskets, working the 
young plants at suitable distances between the wires. Kemove 
the tips of the shoots when the young plants are 3 inches high. To 
prevent the soil falling between the wires line the baskets with 
moss. Standard Fuchsias are obtained by restricting each plant to 
one growth, removing all side shoots till the required height is 
reached. The top of the plant is then cut off and the points of the 
new shoots removed at intervals, to induce other growths to form a 
head. Good varieties are— Single : Madame Cornellison, white, red 
calyx ; Improved Rose of Castile, purple, white calyx ; Scarcity, 
dark carmine red, light red calyx ; Amy Lye, salmon, white calyx ; 
Mrs. Kundle, salmon, flesh calyx ; Marirka, red self. Double : 
Ballet Girl, white, red calyx ; Phenomenal in three distinct colours, 
purple, rose, and white ; Pythagore, dark plum, red calyx ; and 
Madame Danjoux, white shaded mauve, carmine red calyx. 

Ventilating Greenhouse 

Q. Please give me a few hints on ventilating a greenhouse. — 
B. T., WUdsov. 

A. In spring the ventilation of glass houses is an important 
matter. The welfare of the plants depends entirely upon the 
attention of the owner. If an animal be shut up and then neglected 
it will soon die. Plants in greenhouses would, too, if the ventilators 
were kept closed during the greater part of each day, or on some 




BEGONIA REX, 



A PLANT WITH HANDSOME FOLIAGE SUITABLE 
FOR THE SJIALL GREENHOLTSE. 




THIS HEGIINLA JFAY BE INCHKASEn EASILY BY CITTING 
THROUGH THE RIBS OF THE LBAF AND PLACING THIS ON 
SAND IN A WARM GREKNHOUSE. LITTLE PLANTS WILL FORM 

AS SHOWN. 








° Pi 




86 GAEDENING DIFFICULTIES SOLVED 

days not opened at all. In winter time the plants would not .suffer ; 
but in spring the young, tender shoots are growing and require 
plenty of fresh air. But the air must be admitted judiciously in 
order to prevent cold draughts blowing directly upon the foliage. 
The top ventilators of a greenhouse should, from March onwards, be 
opened slightly at 7 o'clock on fine mornings. Then increase the 
width a few inches at 9 o'clock, and again at 10 o'clock ; and if the 
outside air be warm and the sun shining brightly, open the front 
ventilators too at the last named hour. Commence reducing the 
amount of ventilation at 3 o'clock in the afternoon. The upper venti- 
lators may be left open a little way each night during the summer. . 
Usually both doors and ventilators may be opened wide in the 
middle of the day without detriment to the occupants of the house. 
The danger to avoid is keeping the house closed too long, until the 
interior becomes very hot, and then suddenly throwing open the 
ventilators and doors. The opening and closing is best done 
gradually. 

Marguerite Leaves Ruined by Insect 

Q. Will you tell me what causes those white streaks in Marguer- 
ites ? My Cinerarias were also similarly disfigured. I can find no 
insect. — E. M. C, Bolton. 

A. The leaves received were badly attacked by the leaf mining 
maggot. Undoubtedly your Cinerarias are afflicted in the same way, 
for the Cineraria is subject to the attacks of the leaf miner. The 
larvae are living inside ; they tunnel their way between the tissues 
of the leaves. By holding the leaves to the light the position, 
of the larvae may be readily seen. Since the culprits live within the 
leaves, it is exceedingly difficult to get rid of them. Although many 
remedies are sometimes recommended, the only certain cure is to 
remove the worst leaves and immediately burn them, and to kill the 
other grubs by pressing them between the finger and thumb. If 
this method is followed out from the first, and good growing con- 
ditions are also provided, injury from this pest will not be very great. 

Geraniums for Winter Flowering 

Q,. Please tell me when I should take cuttings to raise a stock of 
Geraniums for winter flowering. — E. J. K., Maldon. 

A. February is the time to insert cuttings to make strong plants 
for flowering in the winter in a warm greenhouse. The best cuttings 
are made from the tops of plants which have flowered in the 



THE GREENHOUSE GAY 87 

greenhouse, but only strong and sturdy ones should be selected. 
They are best inserted singly in 2j- or 3-inch pots, according to their 
size. Plenty of sand and a little spent lime should be used in the 
compost, and the cuttings must be made quite firm in the soil. 
Water them in well, and then stand them on a light and airy shelf in 
the full sun. They will require but little water until rooted, but a 
dewing with the syringe twice a day will assist the emission of roots. 
Grow in cold frame in summer. 




GOLDEN BAYBD LILY (LILIUM AUKATOM) GROWN IN, 
FLOWER POT. 

Gloxinia Leaves and Buds for Examination 

Q. For several years I have grown Gloxinias very successfully, but 
this year they are proving a failure. I enclose leaves and buds for 
your inspection, and shall be pleased if you can suggest the cause and 
a remedy, and how to prevent a recurrence next year. — Q. H. W., 
Chelmsford. 

A. The leaves and buds are seriously damaged by the rust mite 
(Tarsonymus tepidariorum), a very pernicious pest, as by its punctures 
of the leaves and tender parts of plants it not only abstracts their 
juices but causes the parts to become stunted, browned, and rusted, 



88 GARDENING DIFFICULTIES SOLVED 

checking growth and spoiling the appearance of the plants. It is also 
a very difficult pest to suppress, particularly on Gloxinias and Ges- 
neras, as from the wooUiness of their leaves they are liable to be 
seriously affected by an insecticide. The whole mite family have a 
great dislike to sulphur, hence recourse is had to paraffin emulsion, 
2 oz. to 1 gallon of water, adding ^ oz. of sulphide of potassium, and 
using as a spray. This, however, has a stunting effect on plants 
with hairy leaves, and I find it better to use tobacco water, or, better 
still, nicotine wash — 1 oz. nicotine solution (98 per cent.) to 8j gallons 
of rain water, and spray the plants with this at intervals of three or 
four days about three times, and then at fortnightly or three weekly 
intervals to prevent recurrence of attack. 

How to Get Rid of Woodlice 

Q- My greenhouse is infested with woodlice. How can I get 
rid of them 1~E. K., Wimborne. 

A. The most practical means of getting rid of them is trapping. 
If a little old hay or dry moss is placed in the bottom of a dirty 
flower pot with a little piece of cooked Potato, the woodlice will 
feed therein in great numbers. These traps should be emptied every 
morning, this will be found to have a wonderful effect in lessening 
the numbers of woodlice. 

Green Fly in Conservatory 

Q. I should be glad to know the best -means of keeping down 
green fly which swarm.s on Roses and other plants in my conser- 
vatory.— S. E., MUcliion. 

A. Undoubtedly the best means of keeping down green fly in 
a greenhouse is by fumigation. If you are not prepared to go to 
the expense of purchasing the concentrated preparations of nicotine 
for fumigating, the next best thing for you to do is to purchase 
tobacco rag from a horticultural sundriesman. All that is necessary 
is to drop a few handfuls of the tobacco rag on to two or three red hot 
pieces of coke from the furnace. Whilst smoking it must be care- 
fully watched, flames must be kept down, otherwise it will be 
injurious to the plants near. Place the red hot coke in very small 
heaps on the path of the house about 15 feet apart, and remove the 
plants immediately over the fumes. 

How to Gro^K Begonia Gloire de Lorraine 

Q. I am anxious to grow this beautiful winter flowering Begonia. 
Will you please give me the essential details of cultivation ? — Epping. 



THE GREENHOUSE GAY 89 

A. With a greenhouse having four rows of liot water pipes, it 
should be a comparatively easy matter to keep the liouse at a 
sufficiently high temperature to suit the requirements of this highly 
decorative Begonia. A uniform night temperature of 50° F. is found 
to suit very well ; in the daytime the temperature will, of course, 
rise with the heat of the sun, when a little top air should be 
admitted. Yes ; it would be advisable to purchase plants now 
(September). In reference to the varieties which resemble Gloire de 
Lorraine, Turnford Hall and Caledonia are the best white forms, 
and Agatha has slightly larger flowers a little deeper in colour 
than the type. Plants purchased now would soon produce flowers, 
and these should all be picked off until the early spring, since this 
is the time when it is desired that they should be in full flower. 
Winter flowering Begonias in general need very careful watering, 
otherwise they will soon turn yellow and rot ofl: at the base. The 
plants purchased at this season should be in their flowering pots, and 
would simply require careful attention to bring them into full 
blossom. These Begonias are increased by means of leaf cuttings 
taken in early spring. If a few of the older leaves are placed on 
a bed of sand in a propagating case in a hot house, young plants will 
form. When rooted these are potted up. 

Taking Geranium Cuttings 

Q. Is now (end of August) a suitable time to take Geranium 
cuttings for bedding out next summer ? — A. H.^ Finchley. 

A. Cuttings for next season's stock should be procured as soon 
as possible. By careful examination of the plants, cuttings may be 
secured without spoiling the appearance of the flower beds. It is 
always worth the trouble to lay out the cuttings after being made on 
the floor of the potting shed for two days, but not to allow them to dry 
enough to cause the leaves to wither, only to flag slightly. Cuttings 
thus treated rarely, if ever, damp off when dibbled into boxes. 
Another precaution should, however, be taken to guard against this, 
and that is to stand the boxes of cuttings on trellises a few inches off 
the ground. 

Fuchsias in lAfinter 

Q. Last winter I lost a lot of my Fuchsias. Can you tell me 
how I can preserve them safely? — Anxious, Streatham. 

A. " I put my Fuchsias under the stages last winter, and when I 
came to take them out for repotting half of them were dead." This 



90 GARDENING DIFFICULTIES SOLVED 

is a reaiark one often hears. They had not suffered from excess of 
moisture, but the reverse, for they were placed at the back of the 
water pipes, and became dried up. These most useful plants either 
for greenhouse or garden simply need to be kept from frost in 
winter ; a cool shed is an excellent place, but if they have to be 
located in the greenhouse they should be kept from the heat of 
pipes and the constant drip of the other plants on the stages above. 

Plants for Greenhouse in Winter 

Q. What are the best plants to put in my conservatory for the 
winter ? What in my window boxes 1 What should be planted out 
in the garden now (October) ? Would Geranium and Carnation 
cuttings be likely to thrive in the conservatory (no fire) in the 
winter 1 How can I fill up a draughty north-east bed ? What 
soil should be used for potting plants? — W. W. W., Worthing. 

A. You may have Azaleas, Arum Lilies, Deutzias, Spiraeas, 
Zonal Pelargoniums, Cinerarias, Primulas, Calceolarias, winter 
flowering Begonias, Cyclamens, and various kinds of bulbous plants 
in your conservatory for the winter months' display. In the window 
boxes and in the beds in the garden, bulbs such as Hyacinths, 
Tulips, Narcissi, Snowdrops, Seilla sibirica, Violas, Wallflowers, 
Myosotis, Silenes, Aubrietias, and Pansies. Wallflowers would be 
suitable for the draughty bed. If frost and excessive moisture can 
be excluded from the greenhouse Geraniums and Fuchsias would 
live in it through the winter. A good general potting compost 
consists of turfy soil, leaf soil, and sand. 

Treatment of Various Orchids 

Q. Will you give general instructions for treatment of Cypripe- 
dium, Odontoglossum, Dendrobium, and Cattleya? — E. A., Swindon. 

A. Cypripedium insigne, or Lady's Slipper, is one of the most 
easily cultivated of all Orchids. It succeeds in quite a cool house 
with such plants as Geraniums and Cinerarias, and maybe stood in a 
cold frame in summer. It will stand several years in the same pans 
without changing the compost, and blossom finely each year. A 
minimum winter temperature of 40" to 4.j^ will suit it, though 
a temperature 5' higher will not harm it. Well drained pots or 
pans are absolutely essentia], and in each case from half to two-thirds 
of the pot should be filled with crooks. The compost should consist 
of 2 parts of good fibrous peat, 1 part of sphagnum, some coarse 
pieces of sandstone and charcoal, and clean crocks. If really good 



THE GRP]BN HOUSE GAY 91 

loam can be obtained a little may be used for C. insigne. All fine 
material should be sifted out and the rough pieces only used. Work 
the compost lightly about the roots, and be careful with watering 
until roots are active. Keep the water out of the growths at all 
times and fumigate frequently S/S a preventive of insects. Odonto- 
glossum crispum and varieties must be grown in quite a cool house 
shaded from bright sun. By fire heat the house should never be 
allovred to rise above 40°. A compost similar to that reoomniended 
for the Cypripediums will do. The Dendrobiums require a high 
temperature, full sun, and an atmosphere heavily charged with mois- 
ture during the growing season. The temperature may rise above 
100° with sun heat and ought not to drop below 70°. When growth 
is finished the water supply should be reduced and the plants placed 
in a cooler house with a drier atmosphere. A shelf exposed to full 
sun forms an ideal position. As the leaves die reduce the water 
supply until none at all is given. When the flower buds appear in 
spring place the plants in a warmer house again and give water 
sparingly until growth begins. They may be placed in hanging pots 
or bxskets in a compost of fibrous peat, sphagnum, and charcoal. 
The Cattleya may be grown with the Cypripediums and a similar 
compost used. In all cases keep the floors and stages of the houses 
damp and the houses well ventilated. 

Forcing Lily of the Valley 

Q. I am anxious to have Lilies of the Valley in bloom in the 
greenhouse early in the year. Please advise. — E. 0. K., Leeds. 

A. September is the month in which to pot the roots intended 
for forcing. It is necessary to obtain plump, well matured crowns 
to commence with or failure will result ; thus, if they have to be 
purchased it will be better to pay a little extra to a reliable nursery- 
man than to buy rubbish which cannot flower. In potting, use a 
somewhat light compost, consisting of turfy soil, leaf mould, and 
sand, placing six or eight crowns or single roots in a 5-inch pot. No 
good will result from cutting the roots about, unless, of course, they 
are too large for the pots, when they may be slightly trimmed. Let 
the tops of the crowns show just above the soil, and water them well 
in. Different growers have different ideas regarding the later treat- 
ment of the Lilies, but a very simple method is to plunge them in a 
box of cocoanut fibre over the hot water pipes in the greenhouse, 
well covering the crowns. It is important to keep the fibre in a 
moist condition, when growth will soon commence. They can be 



92 GARDENING DIFFICULTIES SOLVED 

removed when growing strongly and gradually introduced to the full 
daylight to liring them to their proper colour. 

Marguerites Suddenly 'Withering 

Q. I am sending you two Marguerites which have suddenly 
withered and died. I should like to know the reason why, as I 
have lost a good few in this way. Other Marguerites in the same 
beds and window boxes are looking very healthy. Last year I lost 
some in the same way, plants very much larger than those I am 
sending you, in fact, one measured over 1 yard in diameter. I 
should esteem it a favour if you can tell the cause and how to 
remedy it, as I am afraid my beds will soon begin to look unsightly. 
— Marguerite, Sussex. 

A. The plants are infested by the Sclerotium disease, a parasitic 
fungus which probably attacks and kills more plants of different 
species, and belonging to widely separated orders, than any other. 
The disease first shows itself in the sudden cessation of growth in 
the plants. Upon examination the roots and rootstem are found to 
be dead, and on them, usually at or near the ground line, appears a 
very delicate white mould encircling the stem. The mycelium also 
penetrates into the interior, and gradually extends upwards. Finally 
the stem becomes dry and brittle and falls down. The whitish fluffy 
mould first seen soon changes to a brownish colour, and liberates 
clouds of minute spores when rubbed. This is the earliest and most 
frequent form under which the fungus appears, and is called the 
Botrytis or summer stage. In Potatoes, Beans, and other plants 
with hollow stems, the mycelium or spawn grows up inside the 
stem, and there forms numerous irregularly shaped solid bodies 
varying in shape from that of a Mustard seed to that of a grain of 
wheat. In the Chrysanthemum and othei plants of a semi-ligneous 
nature, these bodies are formed just beneath the bark, and somewhat 
more sparsely and much smaller. They are at first white or pale in 
colour, but become black outside when mature, and are called 
sclerotia, and give name to the fungus, viz. Sclerotinia sclerotiorum. 
They remain in this condition until the following season, when, 
owing to the decay of the host plant previously, and thus liberated, 
they produce spores which infest a new crop. The prevalence of 
the sclerotium disease is due to plants containing sclerotia being 
left on the land, or in the dead plants being thrown on the rubbish 
heap, and their remains as vegetable mould being returned to the 
land. It is important, therefore, to remove and burn all plants 



WINDOW PLANTS 93 

, infested by the disease. Gas lime or quick lime should be applied 
to the land. 

Making and Planting a Window Box 

Q. I should be glad of a few hints on the above subject. — Suburban. 

A. The box should be made about 2 inches wider than the 
window sill, and 7 inches deep. Bore a number of holes through 
the bottom of the box to drain away all surplus water, and paint the 
outside of the box dark green. Use f-inch boards. Wedges may be 
used to make the box stand level on the window sills. Put in 
cinders 2 inches deep for drainage, and use a compost of loam and 
leaf soil in equal proportions. Scarlet Geraniums, white Marguerites^ 
and blue Lobelia ; or Fuchsias, single flowered Petunias, and Lobelia 
would make good combinations. Put in the plants in May. Carna- 
tions are admirable plants for a window box ; they should be 
allowed to droop over the edge. 

Selection of Plants for Windows Box 

Q. Will you please give a list of plants suitable for growing in a 
window box ? — E. A. T., Sutton, 

A. The following list of plants that may be grown in windows 
will be useful for reference : Bulbs of dift'erent sorts, especially 
Crocuses, Snowdrops, and Hyacinths ; Cactus, various kinds ; Arum 
Lily, Richardia aethiopica ; Campanula pyramidalis ; Creeping 
Jenny ; Eoheveria ; Euonymus variegatus ; Indiarubber Plant, 
Ficus elastica ; Fuchsias, various kinds ; Geraniums, various ; 
Hydrangea ; orange coloured Lily, Imantophyllum ; Ivy-leaved 
Geranium ; Ivies, various kinds ; lemon scented Verbena ; golden 
rayed Lily, L. auratum ; Lobelias, various kinds ; Lily of the 
Valley ; Mother of Thousands, Saxifraga ; Musk ; Myrtle ; Oak- 
leaf Geranium ; Orange Tree ; Saxifrages, various sorts ; Vallota 
purpurea, Soarboro' Lily. 

Windoiiir Box Plants for Winter 

Q. What can I put in my window boxes for the winter now that 
the Geraniums and other flowers are over 1— Anxious, Bury. 

A. Window boxes are too frequently stored out of sight at 
this season ; but they may be utilised for the reception of 
several different kinds of shrub. Variegated Euonymus, Cupressus, 
Hollies, Box, and others, can all be purchased in small pots at no 
great price ; these, if plunged in the soil of the boxes, with a few 
bulbs intermingled, will provide a cheerful if not brilliant display. 



94 GARDENING DIFFICULTIES SOLVED 

which will be found far preferable to the blanks caused by the 
removal of the boxes. Small plants of variegated Ivy can be 
secured for draping the front of the boxes. 

Treatment of Newly Potted Bulbs 

Q. I am told that newly potted bulbs should be plunged for five or 
six weeks so as to encourage the formation of roots before top growth 
starts. Could 1 use sawdust for covering them 1 — E. A. T., Rugby. 

A. Yes ; you may plunge the pots containing the bulbs in 
sawdust, but ordinary sand would be far more suitable — it is better 
than ashes. Crocuses, Snowdrops, Tulips, Hyacinths and Narcissi 
should all be plunged in the same way. 

Rose of Jericho 

Q. I should be glad of a few particulars of this extraordinary 
plant. — AmtitcHi; S. Wale«. 

A. This is a common name for Anastatica Hierochuntina, which 
is also known as one of the Resurrection Plants. This plant recovers 
its original form, however dry it may be, on immersion in water, but 
it is not true that it will come into full flower in so short a space of 
time. This curious plant is in fact an annual, the leaves of which 
fall off after flowering ; the branches and branchlets then become 
dry, hard, and ligneous, curling inwards at their extremities. Even 
after the lapse of many years in this dry state the plant will resume 
its vitality on being placed in water. It is a native of Syria and the 
Mediterranean region, and when in a dry round ball it is readily 
blown about the sea shore. By some commentators it is supposed to 
be the " rolling thing before the whirlwind" mentioned by Isaiah. 

About Tuberoses 

Q. When is the best time to pot up Tuberoses to provide blossom 
in the greenhouse in summer ! — E. K. J., Sussex. 

A. April is a suitable time to pot the bulbs of Tuberoses to 
flower during the summer. Suitable pots are those of the 3^- 
or 4-inch sizes. The Tuberoses like turfy soil, and leaf mould, 
decayed manure, and sand should be included. It will be necessary 
to plunge them in cocoanut fibre, and if this is directly over the hot 
water pipes so much the better. One watering immediately after 
potting is all that is required till growth commences, although if 
close to the pipes the fibre should be kept moist. When growing 
freely remove to 6- inch pots, place on a sunny shelf, and water more 
liberally, giving occasional applications of liquid manure. 



CHAPTER VI 
All about Chrysanthemums 

Taking Chrysanthemum Cuttings 

Q. Will you tell me when and how to take Chrysanthemum 
cuttings ?—£■. H., Staines. 

A. When the plants have finished flowering let them get a little 
dry at the roots, then cut them down to within 6 inches of the soil. 
They should be exposed to the open air for a day or two, as this will 
make the cuttings firm and not so likely to fail. They are best 
struck in 3-inoh pots, which should be perfectly clean and well 
crocked to ensure thorough drainage. Fill up the puts nearly to the 
rims with soil, and press it down firmly, and over this place a 
sprinkling of silver sand. The strongest cuttings should be selected 
and taken off with a sharp knife ; they should be about 3 or 4 
inches long. Cut off a few of the lower leaves, and they will then 
be ready for inserting in the pots. Four or five cuttings should be 
inserted round the sides of the pots, and the soil should be pressed 
firmly about them. This done, sprinkle them with water. If the 
cuttings are wintered in a frame the pots should be placed on a layer 
of ashes. Keep the frame shut up close till the cuttings have taken 
root, then admit air on every favourable occasion to prevent them 
from becoming drawn. During frosty weather the frame should be 
covered over with mats. Those who have a greenhouse can winter 
their cuttings with more ease and safety, and nothing suits them 
better than to be placed on a shelf near the glass. 

Chrysanthemums for blooming in November 
and December 

Q. Please give me a list of varieties that will bloom at this 
season. I shall grow them in the border, and pot up in September 
and bring into the greenhouse. — /. 0- H., Wanstead. 

A. The following are suitable varieties, namely. Source d'Or ; 
White and Yellow Selborne ; Kathleen Thompson, A. J. Balfour, 
Mrs. W. Knox, Crimson Source d'Or, Dr. Enguehard, Madame R. 
Oberthur, Princess Victoria, white, aho yellow Princess Victoria, 

95 




(H'TDllclli CIIRYSANTIIEMUM MAGGIE (LTGHT YELT.OW). 



ALL ABOUT CHRYSANTHEMUMS 97 

W. H. Lincoln, Tuxedo, La Triomphante, Winter Cheer, Souvenir 
d'une Petite Amie, Jason,^ Mr. F. S. Vallis, J. H. Silsbury, Mrs. G. 
Beach, L. Canning, Mrs. J. C. Neville, Koi des Blancs, Western 
King, and Christmas Crimson. 

On "Stopping" Certain Chrysanthemums 

Q. Will you give directions as to stopping the shoots of the follow- 
ing varieties ? — 0. T. E., Chester. 

A. Assuming that you wish to grow the plants for the production 
of blooms for the early November shows, you should treat the plants 
as follows. Henry Perkins and Madame Carnot, stop March 20th, 
and take second crown buds. Chrysanthemum Leroux, Joseph 
Rocher, Mr. F. S. Vallis, Countess of Warwick, Capt. P. Scott, and 
George Lock should be allowed to make natural breaks, and first 
crowns be taken in August. Miss Lily Mountford, J. H. Silsbury 
and Vicar of Leatherhead, stop April 20th, second crowns. Madame 
R. Oberthur, Emily Mileham, and Bessie Godfrey, stop May 20th, 
first crowns. Miss Mildred Ware, Lady Randolph, and N.C.S. 
Jubilee, stop April 10th, second crowns. Ben Wells, stop March 20th, 
second crowns. Mrs. F. Judson, stop May 5th, first crowns. Merst- 
ham Yellow is an early flowering variety, and should only be stopped 
once, at the end of April. Western King is a late flowering variety, and 
should be stopped twice, in April and in June. 

Ho»r to Grovr Chrysanthemums 

Q. I have (November) bought three dozen Chrysanthemums in 
bloom; they are in 8-inch pots. I have had them about five weeks. 
Some of them are over now, but there is new growth starting. I 
bought these with the object of increasing them next year. Now 
some of my friends say bury the pots as they are in the open, some 
say stand them in a cold frame, and all say you will get some shoots 
for cuttings next spring. I would like your advice. — H. W., CUssold 
Parh. 

A. When all the flowers have faded place the pots in a cold 
frame, or, failing a frame, in a greenhouse close to the glass, to pre- 
vent the young shoots being drawn up weakly. Cut off the old 
stems 6 inches above the soil level ; they are now useless. In March 
next you may use the young sucker shoots — those growing through 
the soil— for increasing the stock ; they will root readily enough in 
sandy soil when inserted as cuttings. The cuttings will grow into 
fine flowering plants next autumn. 
H 




OUTDOOR CHRYSANTHEMUM WHITE ST. CROUTTS. 



ALL ABOUT CHRYSANTHEMUMS 



99 



Hois to Cure Chrysanthemum Rust 

Q. My plants are badly affected with this reddish fungus. What 
can I do to cure it or prevent its appearance another year ? — Anxious, 
Surhiton. 

A. Take the cuttings in December, sooner or later as convenient, 
trim the leaves off the cuttings, and do not leave more foliage than 
is absolutely necessary ; do not cut the bases off, label each lot of 
cuttings, and bury them in sulphur in a close fitting box — a biscuit 
box would do. Use plenty of sulphur so as to cover the cuttings. 




CHRYSANTDEMUM CUTTINGS. BAD ON LEFT ; (iOOD 
ON BIGHT. 

Leave them in the box for twenty-four hours, then take out, cut off 
the bases and insert in the usual way. The cuttings will flag a little, 
but will soon pick up after being put in the cutting box. If 
possible strike them in another house, apart from the house in which 
they flowered, or even in a cold frame. This treatment invariably 
effects a cure : you may follow it with confidence. 




UNSUITABLE CUTTING, CONTAINS 
FLOWER BUD AT A. BUDS 
WILL FORM PREMATURELY 
AS AT n. 



SUITABLE CUTTING PREPARED 
FOR INSERTION. LEAF RE- 
jroAED AT A, B, STEM CUT 
THROUGH AT A. 




STEM CUTTINGS (UNSUIT- 
ABLE) ARE SHOWN AT A. 
GOOD CUTTINGS (FROM 
soil) are SHOWN AT B. 



A SHOWS BLUNT STICK FOR MAKING 
HOLE FOR CUTTING. NOTE THAT 
SAND FALLS IN HOLE PROM SUR- 
FACE FOR BASK OF CUTTING (B) 
TO REST ON. 



ALL ABOUT CHRYSANTHEMUMS 101 

Chrysanthemums Unsatisfactory 

Q. Herewith I send you leaves of Clirysaiithemiims. I shall be 
grateful if you will tell me the cause of the trouble and the cure. — 
11'. G. A., Arundel. 

A. The leaves of the Chrysanthemums are infested with a leaf- 
mining grub. Gather the bad leaves and burn them. Your plants 
need stimulants. Feed them with clear soot water, liquid manure and 




'•TAKING" CHRY.SANTHEMUM BUDS. 
TERMINAL BUD SECURED BY CROWN BUD SHOWN AT ,V : THIS 

REMOVING OTHERS. WOULD NOT DEVELOP UNLESS 

SHOOTS B WERE REMOVED 
WHEN SM.VLL. 

artificials judiciously. The Carnations are also suffering from rust. 
Pick off the leaves affected, and carefully syringe the plants with the 
Bordeaux mixture. Use copper sulphate 1 lb., soda crystals li lb., 
water Hi gallons ; or you may use verdigris 1 lb., water 12 gallons- 
Spray the plants thoroughly. 
Treatment of Chrysanthemums 

Q. What artificial manure do you recommend for Chrysanthe- 
mums after they are housed ? For the last three or four years I have 



102 GARDENING DIFFICULTIES SOLVED 

grown some fine plants of Chrysanthemum, which have produced 
very promiaing buds. I try to grow them on to what I think is the 
best bud for each individual variety, the buds appearing ready for 
taking generally from the first week of August until the middle of 
September. When housed, as a rule, my plants are perfectly clean and 
healthy, but the buds do not develop as I anticipate, considering the 
health and strength of the plants. I fancy it is something to do with 
feeding after they are housed. I have so far restricted myself to 
pure Peruvian guano, keeping the house and atmosphere as dry as 
I can with a temperature of 50° to 55°. Would you also tell me what 
you think is the best bud to take to get good blooms of Mrs. 
A. T. jMiller, Rose Pockett, Pockett's Surprise, Formality, and 
Splendour ? — Chrysanthemum, Upper Norwood. 

A. It is quite possible that you have taken first crown buds too 
early, and that the petals have not, in consequence, opened as freely, 
and developed into as large flowers as they would if buds were taken 
ten days or a fortnight later. Furthermore, you may bavo crippled 
the roots by over feeding. Clay's Fertilizer, guano and other con- 
centrated manures are suitable for feeding the plants after the latter 
are placed under glass. The best buds to take of the following 
varieties, Formality, Mrs. A. T. ]Miller, Rose Pockett, Pockett's Sur- 
prise, and Splendour, are second crown buds. 

Outdoor Chrysanthemums in Winter 

Q. Will you tell me how to preserve outdoor Chrysanthemums 
during the winter ? The situation is rather low. Last winter after I 
had cut them down I covered them well over with ashes, but lost 
every one. — B. J. C. Melton Mowbray. 

A, If you have a cold frame, the best way is to take them up and 
plant them thickly together in the frame, covering with mats in very 
severe weather, planting in the borders again towards the end of 
March. If you have not a frame, we should take them up and plant 
at the foot of a south warm wall, packing some dry leaves well round 
them, but not covering up the top of the plants. On very severe 
nights cover over with mats or litter. In this way you should have 
no difficulty in preserving your plants through the winter. 



CHAPTER VII 

Failures with Bulbous Flowers — How to Avoid 
Them 

Gladioli not Flowering 

Q. I planted a lot of Gladiolus bulbs in March, very few of 
which flowered the same year. Are they likely to be of any use 
another year? — H. C, Southsea. 

A. If you lift, dry, and store the bulbs until the early part of 
spring, they will probably flower next year. They have not 
been strong enough to do so this year. The bulbs must be of 
sufficient size, and be well ripened to produced flower spikes. 

Daffodils, Tulips, etc., for Kxhibition 

Q. Please inform rae the best varieties of Daffodils, Tulips, and 
any other kind of bulbs suitable for exhibition. Also the best time 
to pot same for exhibiting the early part of April, and whether to 
keep pots in cold greenhouse or outside. — Carnation, Oospoi't. 

A. Daffodils : Emperor, M. J. Berkeley, Mrs. Walter Ware, 
J. B. M. Camm, Madame de Graaff, Gloria Mundi, Sir Watkin, 
Barrii conspicuus, Albatross, Duchess of Westminster, John Bain, 
Poeticus ornatus. The above varieties represent the chief sections 
into which Daffodils are divided. A representative section such as 
this should find favour with the judges, in preference to all yellow 
trumpet or bicolor varieties, for instance. The sorts named can all 
be obtained at a reasonable price. Early single Tulips : White, 
Joost van Vondel, King of the Yellows, Rose Gris de Lin, Prince of 
Austria, Couleur Cardinal, and Duchesse de Parme. May flowering 
single Tulips : Clara Butt, Bouton d'Or, Pride of Haarlem, Mrs. 
Farncombe Sanders, La Tulipe Noire, Picotee. Hyacinths would 
be excellent bulbs for you to grow for exhibition ; good varieties 
are Vuurbaak, crimson; Cavaignac, pale rose pink; Mont Blanc, 
white ; Grandeur a Merveille, pale blush ; Captain Boyton, lilac 
blue ; General Havelock, dark blue ; Bird of Paradise, yellow. 
Pot up the bulbs in October, plunge them in ashes for about six 
weeks, then, if rooting freely, remove to a cold frame till February, 

103 



104 GARDENING DIFFICULTIES SOLVED 

plunging the pots to the rims in ashes. Towards the end of 
February place them in a cold greenhouse. If too early you can 
retard them by shading from the sun, and keeping abundance of 
air on the house. If you decide to grow the May flowering Tulips, 
bring these into your greenhouse a month earlier. 

Bulbs from Stem of Tiger liily 

Q. Will you tell me whether the enclosed bulbs (taken from 
joints of stem of Tiger Lily) will bloom the first year, and also any 
special preparation as regards soil and growth 1 — /. Hewlett, Bow. 




FOUR TITLIP BULBS POTTED IN .>IXCH WIDE POT. 

A. The bulbs you speak of, which have been taken from the 
stems of Tiger Lilies, will not flower next year, or for two or three 
years to come, most likely. You may get flowers the third year 
after the bulbils have been formed, or an odd one or two may even 
appear the second year, but this is very unlikely. The best way to 
grow them is to make up n bed of peat and sandy loam in about 
equal proportions, about 6 inches deep, on well drained ground. 
Plant the bulbils from 1 inch to 2 inches below the surface, on a bed 
of silver sand, and scatter a little more sand on them before coverincr 
them with soil. In two years' time lift, sort into large and small 
and replant. 




FIVE DAFFODIL BULBS IN 6-INCH POT. SOIL HAS STILL TO BE 
"added, A.ND WILL HALF COVER THE BULBS. 




THREE HYACINTH BULBS IN A 6-INCH FLOWER POT. THESE 
AND TULIP BULBS SHOULD BE HALF COVERED WITH SOIL. 



106 GARDENING DIFFICULTIES SOLVED 



Lilies Diseased 

Q. Will you please tell me the probable cause of enclosed Liliums 
(lying off? Both blooms and leaves are falling. I cannot account 

for it, unless it is 
because I have 
given them on two 
occasions weak 
manure water 
(sheep's). I have 
nearly a dozen va- 
rieties of Liliums, 
in my garden. 1 
should like to 
give the ground a 
good digging this 
autumn or winter. 
Shall I leave the 
bulbs in and not 
disturb them or 
take them out and 
put in again, as I 
have done each 




HIIW A LILY BULB IS POTTED. 



previous year 1 — 
F. B., Bow. 

A. Your Lilies 
are affected with one of the diseases that of late years have at- 
tacked these lovely subjects. There is little you can do to stay 
its progress. Some Lily growers, when their bulbs have been 
attacked, have taken thein up and placed them in bags of sul- 
phur, allowing this substance to percolate well among the scales. 
Replanted the next year they have shown no signs of the disease. 
We should certainly advise you to take up the bulbs and replant 
again after turning over the ground as you propose. In replanting 
place a little peat beneath each bulb and surround it with i inch of 
sand. L. aura turn should be planted 8 inches deep, and L. umbella- 
tum about 5 inches. 

About Lily Bulbs 

Q. I have three Lilies (Lilium auratum) which have just finished 
flowering — two of the pots contained seventeen and thirteen blooms 
respectively— and now I do not know how to treat them. Should 




ONE OF THE FINEST OP ALL DAFFODILS FOR THE GARDEN, 
SIR AVATKIN, PALE YELLOW. 



108 GARDENING DIFFICTTLTIES SOLVED 



they be put outside and repotted in the spring 1—J ■ A'- ','., li'orth 
umherlnrid. 

A. Place the pots containing the bulbs in a cool frame and 
gradually withhold water. In spring repot them in small pots so 
that you can transfer them to larger ones in due course. 

Growing Lilies in Pots 

Q. I am anxious to grow Lilies in pots. Which are the best for 

the purpose? and how are they grown IS. E. W., Bnmsgate. 

A. The potting 

should be done at 

any time during 
the resting season 
of the bulbs, pre- 
ferably in autumn. 
A good soil is 
made by mixing 
together loam and 
peat in equal parts, 
and adding smaller 
quantities of sharp 
silver sand and 
charcoal broken to 
the size of Hazel 
Xuts. Deep pot- 
ting should be 
practised so as to 
leave space above 
the bulbs for top 
dressing later on 
when growth is 

being made. iSpeciosum varieties, auratum and candidum are 

the most useful. 




CKOCl'S SIB AVALTER SCOTT. GROWN IN 
FLOWER POT IN COLD GREENHOrSK. 



Gladiolus Bulbs 

Q. Last season I grew a lot of Gladioli The Bride, and some 
hybrids in pots in heated greenhouse. Would these bulbs be worth 
growing in pots another year 1 — Eosa, Derby. 

A . You can grow these on another year and they would succeed 
very well. The bulbs should be shaken free of soil and hung up 
in an airy shed, until the sap has gone out of their foliage, when 



ROOM PLANTS 109 

they may be cleaned and placed in dry sand or bags, and kept in 
a cool, dry place ready for another season. 

Room Plants 
Room Plants Failing 

Q. Will you please tell me what is wrong with my Aspidistra — 
why the leaves that have grown up tall all split, and why all the new 
leaves that come up now have taken to be so short ? They unfold 
so quickly and do not grow at all. — JE. B., Kensington. 

A. The leaves have most likely been knocked by people passing 
by, especially when they were young and tender. As the young 
leaves lack vigour the plant evidently needs dividing and repotting. 
If unable to do this take it to the florist. Turfy soil 2 parts, sand 
and leaf soil 1 part, make up a good soil mixture. February or 
early March is a good time to repot. This plant, when well rooted, 
needs a lot of water in summer and comparatively little in winter. 
Norfolk Island Pine (Araucaria excelsa) in Room 

Q. I have a fine plant of this in my dining room. It is full 
grown, six tiers high, the lower branches still on and (juite healthy, 
but the roots show on the top of the pot, also at the bottom, and I 
am told they object to repotting. I do not want to lose it by so 
doing ; can you please advise me as to how it should be dealt with 1 
—M. M. C. W., Essex. 

A. If the pot is well filled with roots it will be advisable to repot 
the plant in spring. Use a mixture of fibrous loam and peat in 
equal proportions, and sand to make the whole porous. Press down 
the new soil carefully and firmly, and see that the soil never gets too 
dry or is kept in a saturated condition, and then the tree will 
improve in every way. 
Repotting Room Plants 

Q. Can you give me a few hints on repotting room plants 1 — 
8. T. E., Ealiny. 

A. Eoora plants should be examined in February, and if roots in 
large numbers have reached the side of the pot, repotting is neces- 
sary. I refer to such subjects as Aspidistras, palms, and various 
ferns which are used for indoor decoration. Unless the plant is to 
be returned to a pot of the same size as was previously occupied it 
will not be advisable to disturb the roots a great deal. For some 
time after potting watering must be carefully performed, giving it 
only when the soil is fairly dry, or sourness of the soil will result, 



CHAPTER VIII 
Grape Growing in Greenhouses 

Vine for Unheated Greenhouse 

Q. I have an unheated greenhouse. Can I grow Grapes there 
with any measure of success 1 — E. S. T., Finchlei/. 

A. Quite easily. Excellent crops may be had from an unheated 
greenhouse provided (1) this is in a sunny place, (2) the proper 
varieties are grown, (3) that certain simple cultural details are 
attended to. The first thing is to make a good border. Dig out a 
hole 3 feet across and 3 feet deep. Put a layer of bricks in the 
bottom for drainage and a layer of turves, grass side downwards, on 
these. Then fill the hole with turfy soil (turves each chopped into 
about 6 pieces with a spade) with which a good sprinkling of half 
inch bones and one fourth part well rotted manure were previously 
mixed. Do not plant within a fortnight ; this will allow the soil 
to settle down. A properly prepared border is of the first im- 
portance. 

Q. Does it matter whether the Vine is planted out of doors or 
inside the vinery 1 

A . It makes no real difference providing the border is well made. 
The Vine is hardy, frost will not harm it. If planted outside, how- 
ever, it is wise to protect that part of the stem that is out of doors 
by wrapping it round well with straw or hay. 

Q. Which are the most suitable varieties? 

A. Black Hamburgh is the best of the black Grapes for this 
purpose ; Foster's Seedling, Buckland Sweetwater and Royal 
Muscadine are suitable white sorts. 

Q. When should vines be planted ? 

A. In March just as growth is about to commence, or in autumn 
or winter. 

Pruning Yines 

Q. How are Vines pruned? — Ii/iinranf, WiiiJaor. 
^1 . Newly planted Vines are cut down to within a foot of the 
base. One shoot is allowed to grow to form the future stem or rod ; 

110 




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W 

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H 
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H 
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a 

w 
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112 GARDENING DIFFICULTIES SOLVED 



all the others are rubbed off. If there is room for two stems then 
two may be allowed to develop. The following year the Vine may 
be left 3 feet long ; each year 3 feet of new stem is left until the 
allotted space is filled. Meantime side growths will form. >Some 
of the best, at intervals of 15 to 18 inches apart, are allowed to grow ; 
others are rubbed off in spring when quite small. Those shoots left 
are called laterals and will form spurs. 

Pruning Lateral Shoots. 

Q. How are lateral shoots or spurs pruned ? — Ignorant, Windsor. 

A. The pruning is simplicity itself. Each year (in January) the 
previous summer's growth is cut back to within two buds of the 
base, thus practically all the previous year's growth is cut away. 
When these two buds start into growth in spring only one is retained ; 
if neither contains a bunch then the weaker is rubbed off ; if one 




jrAKlXG .\ 

VINE 

BORDER. 



contains a bunch and the other does not, naturally the former is 
retained. The embryo bunch can be distinguished when the shoot 
is only an inch long. 



GRAPE GROWING IN GREENHOUSES 113 



Treatment of Vines during Summer 

Q. Would you give general directions for treatment of Vines 
during the summer months ? — Ignorant, Windsor. 

A. The side shoots are " stopped " at one leaf beyond the bunch ; 
if the shoot bears no bunch then it is stopped when it has made 
five leaves. Further shoots that grow are stopped beyond one leaf. 
Until the top of the vinery is reached the leading shoot 
is allowed to grow unchecked, .3 feet only of the summer's 
growth being left at the January pruning. A moist, warm atmo- 
sphere is necessary until the Grapes begin to colour, then more 
air and less moisture are essential. Avoid giving much air at 
once ; the ventilators should be opened gradually. Allow the 




^'INB WITH ROOTS SPREAD OUT 
FOR PLANTING. THE WAVED 
LINE INDICATES SURFACE OF 
SOIL. 



VINE AS RECEIVED FROM 
THE NURSERY. 

temperature to rise 10° above the minimum night temperature before 
air is given. When the Vines are in bloom more air and less 
moisture than usual should be the order of the day. When the 
Grapes are about the size of Black Currants they apparently cease 
to make any progress for two or three weeks ; this is the " stoning " 
period, the period of seed formation. Thinning the berries when 
they are about the size of Peas is an important item of work. When 
the Grapes are cut the Vines need full exposure. They cannot then 
have too much air. If cut with about 4 inches of growth. Grapes 
will keep for weeks in a cool, airy, dark or shaded room. The piece of 
I 



114 GAEDBNING DIFFICULTIES SOLVED 

growth is inserted in a bottle of water, the bottles being fixed on a 
shelf, slantingly, so that the bunch may hang free. 

Vines not Fruiting 

Q. I have five Vines (they are twenty -five years old) in a leanto 
greenhouse facing south-east. They are trained on wires ; the 
border is outside, made and drained. I cut down the old canes 
to about 3 feet from the border because they did not produce fruit, 
and trained up young canes in their places. The young canes are 




SIDE SHOOT OB 
LATEBAL OF 

VINE AS PRUNED 
IN JANUTABY. 




ONE OP THE BUDS WILL GIVE RISE TO A 
SHOOT LIKE THIS WHICH IN SUMMER IS 
STOPPED TWO OR THREE JOINTS BEYOND 
THE BUNCH. 



healthy and have plenty of foliage, but where the fruit ought to be 
they produce tendrils. — J. W., Essex. 

A. The reason the young rods have not borne bunches is, no 
doubt, owing to lack of maturity. If the house is heated, keep the 
pipes warm during the autumn and admit plenty of air in the day- 
time and even at night, to ripen the wood. In December, just 
before Christmas, prune back the young rods to within 3 feet 
or so of the base of the current year's growth ; do this each year 
until the allotted space is covered. Also top dress the borders with good 
fibrous loam and some bone meal. It is probable that the variety 
you have needs a warmer temperature than you give it. Muscat of 



GRAPE GROWING IN GREENHOUSES 115 

Alexandria, Madresfield Court, Cannon Hall Muscat, Muscat Ham- 
burgh and Mrs. Pince are useless in an unhealed house. 

Grapes Spoilt 

Q. Will you tell me how to prevent Lady Downe's Grapes from 
going bad as per berries enclosed ? The Vine is very old, and is grown 
in the same house as Black Hamburgh. I have the roof shaded over 




IIUXCH OF tiBAPKS 

UNTIIINNED. 



liUXCH OK GRAPHS 
THINNED. 



the Lady Downe's, and ventilators open about 6.30 a.m. I have the 
same trouble more or less every year about stoning time and 
although I did not thin them so hard I have had to cut away a lot 
of berries, which has spoilt the look of the bunches. The house is 
not heated regularly, only on dreary, cold, and wet nights. — W. Foster, 
Acton. 

A. Your Crapes are badly scalded. The variety Lady Downe's is 
more liable to scalding than any other, since it has such a thin skin. 



116 GARDENING DIFFICULTIES SOLVED 

Scalding is always worse when a bright spell of weather comes after 
a prolonged dull one, especially if at the time when the berries are 
stoning, i.e. when the stones are hardening, and before colour- 
ing commences. In addition to the free ventilation and light 
shading given, admit a little air all night and warm the pipes too ; 
this is all you can do. When the top ventilators are left open an 
inch or two all nighty the berries are rarely scalded. Scalding is 
caused by the sun shining on the Grapes when they are moist. If 
the ventilator is left open the moisture does not settle on the 
Grapes. 

Foster's Seedling Grape Spotted 

Q. Can you tell me the reason of my white Grapes being spotted 
in this way? I enclose a bunch. — E. W., Hetidon. 

A . The spots on the berries of your Grapes are the result of the 
atmosphere of the vinery being kept too cold and too damp. AVhen 
Grapes are quite ripe it is the inevitable result that decay follows 
unless the air of the house is kept sufficiently warm and dry to 
prevent it. 

Grapes Shrivelling before Ripe 

Q. I am much disappointed in my Grapes. The berries and 
the stalks shrivel, rendering the fruit quite useless. — H. E. S., 
O.ron. 

A. The shrivelling of the berries is due to shanking, a failinf.' 
brought about by a number of causes, the chief being a sour and 
badly drained border. At the same time the berries will shank if 
the border is allowed to become dry, and it should be borne in mind 
that Vines from the time of starting until the time of colouring need 
copious supplies of water, with occasional applications of liquid 
manure. Examine the border frequently, and never allow it to 
become dry. The fumes from burning sulphur are, as you have 
learnt, very injurious to growing Vines, but we attribute the shank- 
ing either to sour soil or to overcropping the previous year. 

Top Dressing Vine Borders 

Q. What is the best material with which to top dress Vine 
borders? Can I use fowl manure ?— J . -i". W., Wahall. 

A. Cow manure is by far the .best, but as you are unable to 
procure it the fowl manure may be used as a substitute. It should 
first of all be mixed with about its own bulk of turfy soil, and then 



GRAPE GROWING IN GREENHOUSES 117 

spread over the borders to a depth of 2 or 3 inches. Horse litter 
may also be given, liut not in the fresh state. When half rotted it 
may be spread evenly over the border. 

About a Greenhouse and Neglected Vines 

Q. 1 write to ask your advice about a greenhouse I have. It is 
50 by 14 feet, and contains no stage or shelves. It is 3 feet high at 
sides, and 9 feet high at the apex. Can I grow vegetables in it 1 or 
what would be more profitable 1 I have a Vine that has not been 
pruned for three years. Can I cut it hard back? — Constant Reader, 
Stockport. 

A. You may force Ehubarb and Seakale in the greenhouse in the 
winter months, and grow Mushrooms, early Lettuces, and, later 
Kidney Beans, in pots or boxes. In summer time you cannot do 
better than grow Tomatoes. The proper time to prune the Vine is 
at the end of December, but if you cut away the growths of several 
years hard back to the main rod, side shoots will grow again, but 
there would be little fruit the same year. The best plan would 
be to prune to the base of the shoots of this year's growth, leaving 
two buds only. There would be long spurs, but it is not possible to 
avoid them unless you cut hard back, and sacrifice most of the fruit 
for a year or two. This would be best in the end ; it would give the 
Vines a new lease of life and result in fresh vigorous growths. 

Treatment of Ripening Grapes 

Q. My Grapes are just beginning to colour. Should I still con- 
tinue syringing and damping down the path and walls ? and .if so, 
how long? They are mostly Black Hamburgh and Alicante. — 
O. N., Hampstead. 

A. You must cease syringing the Vines, but damping down 
should continue a little longer, say for two or three weeks, although 
it must be gradually diminished. On dull, wet days it will not be 
necessary at all. 

Grapes Failing 

Q. I am sending a bunch of Black Alicante, and should feel very 
grateful if you could tell me the reason of their disfigurement. I 
have two Vines, and for two or three years have had occasional 
bunches go in the same way, but this year every bunch is affected ; 
I have about twenty bunches on each Vine. The Vine itself seems 
quite healthy. I have the border inside, so that I keep it in good 



lis (iARDKXIXd DIFF1CULTIP:s ^;<^)LVED 

condition. I do not force them at all — just have a little heat when 
they begin to grow, generally about March, until warm weather sets 
in. Is it lack of heat ? Gros Colraar and a white Muscat do well in 
same house. I shall have had them nine or ten years. — A Lady 
GnrdeniT, Suftolk. 

A. Your Vines are affected with what is known as scjld. It is 
caused through ineiBcient ventilation, especially on bright, sunny 
mornings whilst the vinery and even the berries are damp with con- 
densed moisture. It usually attacks Grapes when they have nearly 
finished stoning. There is no cure for the berries once affected. 
The way to prevent its attack is to ventilate freely as soon as the 
berries have commenced to stone, until they have done stoning and 
are commencing to colour. The ventilators, both front and top, 
should be thrown wide open in front of the Vines in warm weather 
during the day, and a little air must be left on all night. 

Treatment of Vine 

Q. Will you please give me information as to the treatment of 
a Black Hamburgh Vine? I have gathered all the Grapes and 
the leaves are fast dying off, and I am now at a loss what to do. 
The previous owner of the Vine advised me to lift it down from 
the glass and lay it on the floor of the greenhouse to rest, also to 
place a small load of cow manure on the roots in January. Is this 
the correct treatment 1 I know that the laterals should be pruned 
back to two buds ; but when 1—W. S. 8., Notts. 

A. The Vine needs little or no attention now. Its chief need is 
fresh air, so that the growth may ripen well ; therefore keep the 
house cold by opening the ventilators wide. Pruning may be done 
in December or January. Each of the side shoots is cut back to 
the two lowest buds on the past summer's growth. A dressing of 
cow manure on the outside border in January would be advisable ; 
strawy litter would be better, putting on and forking in the cow 
manure in March. The strawy litter would be warmer as a winter 
covering. 

Sulphuring Hot Vf ater Pipes in a Vinery for 
the Destruction of Red Spider 

Q. Would you kindly advise me if it would be safe to use sulphur 
and lime on the hot water pipes in a vinery in which the Grapes are 
ripe and in which there is a lot of Maidenhair Ferns and other 
plants t I have no other house for plants, and later on there will be 



GRAPE GROWING IN GREENHOUSES 119 

all the bedding plants and Chrysanthemums. Kindly advise me as 
to the best time to clean the house. — No. 53, Bucks. 

A. It is quite safe to sulphur the hot water pipes in a vinery in 
which the Grapes are ripe, provided it is not done excessively, other- 
wise there is danger of injuriously affecting the skin of white Grapes 
such as Muscat of Alexandria, White Frontignan, and indeed all white 
varieties, the fumes turning the skin to a bluish colour, and to some 
extent detracting from their appearance. But as you say there are 
a number of Maidenhair Ferns and other plants in the house, it would 
not be safe to use the sulphur on the hot water pipes, as the fumes 
will certainly injure the more tender of the growths and cause them 
to become brown. The better plan would be to use a sponge and go 
over the leaves carefully, the sponge being moistened with a soft soap 
solution, 2 oz. or 3 oz. soft soap to 1 gallon of water, and thus break 
up the webs and remove most of the pests by the process. This is a 
tedious but a sure way of palliating the evil, and would be the best. 

Rust on Muscat Grapes 

Q. Enclosed is a sample of Muscat of Alexandria Grape, being the 
first fruit of a four year old Vine with an outside border. The 
Vines were started in the first week of February. The brown marks 
on the Grapes were noticed about a fortnight ago (August). — 
Enquirer, Newbury. 

A. The Muscat of Alexandria Grapes are affected by rust. Over- 
heating of the pipes while the berries were small would cause the 
mischief. If the roots of the Vines are in a cold border, this condi- 
tion of affairs would be aggravated ; violent changes in the tempera- 
ture are also likely to predispose the Vines to this malady. 

Vine lieaves Diseased 

Q. Can you tell me what is the matter with the Vine leaves 
enclosed 1 They seem in a bad way. What can I do to cure them ? — 
A.E.T., Bury. 

A. Your Vines are suffering from a bad attack of thrips, red 
spider and mildew, and if these pests are not speedily destroyed you 
stand a very poor chance of getting any useful returns from your 
Vines. Amongst the 'chief causes of attack from red spider and 
mildew are the following : Over cropping the Vines in previous 
years ; insufficient thought and care in ventilating, especially in 
spring and early summer ; dryness at the roots, and a too close 
proximity of the foliage to the glass in hot weather. The cause of 



120 GARDENING DIFFICULTIES SOLVED 

attack from thrips is usually the bringing of plants which are infested 
with them into the vinery. For the destruction of red spider and 
thrips you should fumigate with XL ALL on two successive evenings 
when the weather is calm, of course closing down the ventilators to 
prevent the escape of fumes. To destroy the mildew you should 
heat the hot water pipes moderately and paint the pipes over with 
flowers of sulphur made into the consistency of paint ^by added 
water, sealing up the vinery as closely as possible, as in the case of 
fumigating. Do this on two successive evenings of calm days. 
Afterwards do all you can to encourage healthy growth, by keeping 
up a moist and congenial atmosphere in the vinery. 

Fumigating -with HydFOcyanic Acid Gas 

Q. White ily is a nuisance in my greenhouses. I am thinking of 
fumigating with hydrocyanic acid gas. In the directions it says : 
" After an hour the doors should be opened, also the ventilators, 
but only if they can be opened from the outside. In no circum- 
stances should the house be entered until the next morning after 
ventilating." Most of my houses are span-roofed, with top venti- 
lators and one at end. I could arrange to open the end one from 
outside, and, of course, the door. Would this be enough 1 How 
long would it be necessary to ventilate ? Will white fly live all the 
winter in cold houses or frames 1 — E. M., Chepstow. 

A. If you were to open the end ventilator all night it should be 
sufficient to clear the house of gas ; but it would be just as well to 
stand the door open for an hour in the morning. When using it I 
could only open the side ventilator of the houses, and I always 
found them clear in the morning. Great care should be exercised 
when using the above fumigant. The door of the house or houses 
should be securely fastened, and a notice on it warning anyone from 
entering the house ; one inhalation of the gas will jyi-ova fatal. If 
only troubled with white fly, I would advise fumigating with 
XL ALL compound, or any of the other good compounds offered 
for sale, as white fly is very easily killed. Of course, to get rid of 
it one must fumigate several times, as fresh broods hatch out. It 
is usually troublesome during autumn, and should not live during 
winter in houses or frames, unless they are kept hot and close 
The proportions I have used per 1,000 cubic feet are 2i oz. cyanide 
of potassium, 4 oz. fluid . ulphuric acid, 8 oz. water. LTse a 
shallow earthenware vessel, and be careful to add the acid to the 
water, not the water to the acid. 



CHAPTER IX 
Fruit Growing Problems 

Apple Trees Affected by Insects 

Q. Will you inform me how to get rid of a pest which has in- 
fested about fifty of my young apple trees ] It appears at first white 
and fluffy, and when examined bugs are seen. They fasten on the 




AN OLD ESPALIER APPLE TREE IN PULL BLOOM. 

young growth and cause an ugly swelling on the bark, and eat right 
through the bark in places and cause the growth to die back. A 
gardener in this district told me to use soft soap, but I am sorry to 
say it has had little, if any, effect on them. I am afraid it only 
serves to drive them from one branch to another. — Wm. Lawrence, 
Guildford. 

121 



122 rTARDENING DIFFICULTIES SOLVED 

A. Your trees are infested by the American Blight (Schizoneura 
lanigera). In the autumn procure some ammoniacal liquid from the 
gasworks, and with a stiff brush well work the liquid into all 
cracks and indentations of the bark. Paraffin may be used. A'ery 
loose pieces of bark remove altogether. Having dealt with the 
branches and the trunk of the tree, carefully remove the soil from 
around the base of the trunk down to the roots, and treat it in a 
similar manner. Kemove all the surface soil as far as the full spread 
of the branches, burn it, and put on some fresh loam in its place. 

Grafted Apple Trees Dying 

Q. Can you tell me the disease which has caused the death of 
enclosed Apple tree ? I have grafted a good many trees the last year 
or two, many of them have been stricken in the same way.— .£■., Ke/it. 

A. It is very seldom one hears of the death of an Apple tree 
grown under the usual natural conditions, but it is not at all unusual 
for grafted trees to succumb to the operation in the course of a year 
or two's time. This is more particularly the case with trees which are 
fairly old when grafted, the reason, we believe, being that the shock 
of cutting away the trees' limbs has so disorganised and weakened 
the trees' functions, both root and branch, that they have never re- 
covered. We think that the death of your trees is due to this cause. 

Transplanting an Apple Tree 

Q. I moved an apple tree from one part of my garden to another 
on September 18th, All the leaves have shrivelled and appear dead. 
What can I do ?— W. H. C, Essex. 

A. It is a pity you moved the tree so early. You should have 
waited until the leaves had fallen and growth had ceased— say at the 
end of October or early in November— and the tree would scarcely 
have felt the check of removal. Being a young tree, we have 
no doubt it will soon get over any injury received. The symptoms 
you mention as regards the leaves dying and sticking on the 
branches, and the branches shrivelling, are the usual indication of 
too early lifting. Prune the tree about the end of December. 

Pears Cracked and much Disfigured 

Q. Can you tell me why my Pears are cracked and disfigured in 
this way ? I enclose a few fruits.— .S. 2\ )('., Slough. 

A. The fruits are infected by the disease known popularly as Pear 
scab, caused by the parasitic fungus, Fusicladium dendritic um var- 



FRUIT GROWING PROBLEMS 123 

piriiiuui. Tliis is probably the most general and widely distributed 
of fungoid diseases attacking Pears. The disease is usually only 
recognised on the fruit, the casual observer not noticing that the 
scab first appears on the leaves and young shoots, from whence 
the spores are washed by rain on to the fruit, which, as a rule, is 
the last to be attacked. If the fruit is nearly full grown before it is 
infected the spots formed by the fungus remain comparatively small 
and cracking does not generally ensue. As regards preventive and 
repressive treatment, the chief points to be attended to are : 1, all 
diseased fruits, or parings of them, should be collected and burned, 
and it is good practice to gather and burn the leaves as soon as they 
have fallen in the autumn, or bury them somewhat deeply in 
the ground. 2, spray the trees with a solution of sulphate of copper, 
1 lb. of the sulphate to 25 gallons of water, or 1 oz. to 14 gallons. 
This should be applied during the winter. 3, spray with a solution 
of sulphide of potassium, dissolving 1 oz. of the sulphide in 1 gallon 
of hot water, and in another vessel 6j oz. of soft soap in a similar 
quantity of hot, soft water. When both thoroughly dissolve, add the 
latter solution to that of the sulphide of potassium, stir well, and 
dilute to 6j gallons with cold, soft water, mixing well. The spraying 
with the solution should be as follows : First, just as the flower buds 
begin to open ; second, when the petals of the flowers are falling ; 
and third, when the fruit is the size of Peas or slightly larger. If the 
season be rainy, a fourth treatment should be given twelve days 
after the third. 

Pear Tree Cankered 

Q. The enclosed Pear is from a tree about twenty or more years 
old, which is badly cankered. Can this be brought round to a 
healthy state 1 It is now showing vigorous growth, but has suff'ered 
from neglect in the past. Will you kindly tell me good solutions 
with which to syringe large fruit trees for green fly, black fly, 
American blight ? — Surrey Subscribe): 

A. The Pear tree may be improved by root pruning and the 
removal of a lot of surface soil. The latter must be replaced by new 
loam and a mulching of rotted manure. Cut off the cankered shoots 
quite close, and coat over the cut parts with Fir tree oil. To get rid 
of American blight, dress the tree with a solution of i lb. of caustic 
soda dissolved in 1 quart of water, and 4 oz. of soft soap in a similar 
quantity ; add the two together, and then dilute with 5 gallons of 
rain water. The whole of the bark down to the roots of the trees 



124 GARDENING DIFFICULTIES SOLVED 

must be thoroughly scrubbed with the mixture. Wear gloves while 
applying it. Quassia extract, used according to instructions, will 
kill the green and black aphides. 

Plums Dropping before Ripening 

Q. Many of the Plums on my trees are dropping this season 
before they are ripe. Can you explain this ]—II. E. E., Maidsfone. 

A. The fall of undersized fruits before they commence to colour 
is generally attributed to overcropping. It may also be due to the 
blossom being imperfectly fertilised, a condition brought about by 
the lack of bees or other insects which visit the early flowers. From 
the sample of soil and subsoil sent, we do not think that this is the 
cause of failure. We note that the tree was root pruned on one 
side last autumn ; if the tree has made a good deal of growth since 
then, we strongly advise you to root prune the other side this autumn 
and be sure that all large roots are cut, particularly those which go 
vertically downwards right underneath the base of the tree. Koot 
pruning will oft-times bring an otherwise barren tree into bearing. 

About Pruning Fruit Trees 

Q. Please tell me why fruit trees cannot be pruned before the 
leaves fall. — Fruit, Bedford. 

A. The reason why fruit trees ought not to be pruned before the 
foliage falls, is that by early pruning the tree would send out 
fresh shoots before the autumn had passed. These shoots would be 
useless as fruit spurs or as flowering wood, as they would be poorly 
developed and not ripened. Summer pruning consists of stopping 
the young growths in July. 

Pears in Greenhouse Falling While Small 

Q. The fruits are falling off my Pear trees (in greenhouse) in con- 
siderable numbers, although they are not half developed. Why is 
this 1—U. E. B., Blaclcpool. 

A. The fruit is dropping on account of the imperfect fertilisation 
of the flowers. On cutting you will find that the young fruit is 
practically seedless. There are various causes accountable for this. 
Sometimes the pollen on the anthers of the flowers is weak and 
scanty, and lacking the power to fecundise the stigma. The remedy 
in this case is artificially to fertilise the flowers by applying the 
pollen to the stigma by the aid of a camel hair pencil. Too close 
and hot an atmosphere at the time the trees are in bloom will have 



FEUIT GROWING PROBLEMS 125 

the same effect, therefore always ventilate freely at this time in 
sunny weather. It is the same with the Apricot as the Pear. You 
will find the stone is jelly-like. You cannot keep the temperature 
too low whilst the Apricot is in bloom— say from 40° to 45° at night, 
with air all night and day. 

Nectarines Splitting 

Q. Many of my Nectarines on outdoor trees are badly .split. Is 
it due to the wet summer? — ,/. 0. H., Wciibridge. 

A. The excessive wet is most probably the cause. It is not an 
uncommon occurrence. Extreme drought owing to failure to supply 




Blenheim Orange. Ribbtun Fippin. Lane's Fnnce Albeit 

THREE GOOD APPLES. 

the trees with sufficient water ; saturation of the soil and overcrop- 
ping all tend to induce the splitting of the fruits. Boards are some- 
times placed on the borders to keep off heavy rains. Plums and 
Apricots are liable to be similarly affected. 

Peach Lieaf Blister 

Q. Can you tell me the cause of my outdoor Peach tree leaves 
becoming badly blistered in April l—E. W. W., Hastings. 

A. This is due to the attack of Peach curl or Blister fungus 
(Exoascus deformans) ; Cherries and Plums are also attacked by it. 
It is a troublesome disease, and until within the last few years no 
remedy has been found. However, a preparation called Medela, 



126 GARDENING DIFFICULTIES SOLVED 

made by Messrs. Q. Bunyard and Co., the Eoyal Nurseries, Maid- 
stone, is said to be a certain cure. 

Pruning Gooseberry Bushes 

Q. Will you please tell me when is the proper time to prune 
Gooseberry bushes ? — B. J. C, Melton Mowhray. 

A. The best time to prune Gooseberry bushes is in March, just 
before they start into growth, because birds during severe weather 
are very destructive to the buds. If they are pruned too earlj', 
there is a danger of the few buds left after pruning being destroyed. 
If all the branches are left on until spring, the birds are not so 
likely to do serious harm. If you have the means of protecting your 
trees from the birds, you may prune them any time between Novem- 
ber and March. 

Pruning Pear Trees 

Q. My Pear trees bear little fruit, they are a mass of growth. 
Ought I to thin out the latter 1 — Anxious, iSale. 

A. There are too many small spurs bearing only leaf buds on 
your trees. These, when they are fully developed in summer, crowd 
the trees to such an extent that a minimum amount of sunshinei 
light, and air penetrates amongst the branches of the trees. As a 
consequence weak and unripe growth results, which cannot possibly 
produce remunerative crops of fruit. The best way of remedying 
this in your case is by disbudding. Thi.s means the act of rubbing 
away, with the finger and thumb, the weakest of the young shoots, 
which will appear on these spurs towards the end of April or the 
beginning of May, as soon as they are from i to i inch long. There 
will probably appear on each of the spurs from three to five of these 
young leaf growths ; in the case of the former, one, the weakest, 
should be rubbed otf, and in the case of the latter, three of the 
weakest should be similarly rubbed otf. 

Myrobella Plum Hedge 

Q. One side of my garden has a hedge formed of Myrobella Plum. 
Will you please inform me how to keep same trimmed so as not to 
take up too much room t—L. J/., Cuf/onL 

A. If the hedge in question is taking too much space, you may 
cut the side shoots back severely in the autumn, or not later than the 
end of February next. Young shoot.s will grow in .■spring, and these 
may be cut in in July. 



FRUIT GROWING PROBLEMS 127 

Plum Tree Infested by Aphis 

Q. I send you cuttings from a Plum tree to get your opinion of 
the malady and what you would recommend to cure. The whole tree is 
affected, and other trees in its neighbourhood are slightly contami- 
nated by it. — Coupar Angus. 

A. Your tree is badly affected by black aphis. The best way of 
destroying it is to cut away all the badly affected points of the young 
shoots and burn them, and then syringe your trees copiously with the 
following insecticide : Boil 2j lb. of Quassia chips, and 1| lb. of soft 
soap, adding to them 25 gallons of water. This is a cheap and effective 
remedy for getting rid of aphis of all sorts. To make doubly sure 
of its destruction we should advise you to spray your trees in winter 
with the burning alkali wash. This will destroy all insect life it 
comes in contact with, without injury to the tree. It should be 
applied as soon as the trees are pruned in winter. This wash may 
be had of most seed merchants, with directions how to use. 

Meaning of Freestone and Clingstone 

Q. I often see these terms used in reference to Plums and Peaches. 
Can you explain ^ — T. 0. A., Uxhridge. 

A. The term freestone means that the flesh parts cleanly from 
the stone when ripe. In clingstone varieties the opposite is the 
case. Old lime rubble or mortar rubbish will do very well to mix 
with the soil for fruit trees. Be careful not to over do it, however, 
especially if the ground is light. 

Gumming in Stone Fruit Trees 

Q. Some of my Cherry and Plum trees are not thriving ; the 
shoots exude a gummy substance. What can I do to cure them? — 
Southerner, Hants. 

A. Most of us who possess or have the management of gardens 
know something about this disease, so far, at least, as its effect upon 
the trees is concerned. No fruit trees subject to it can have a long 
or prosperous life. There may be— probably there is— a predisposi- 
tion to gumming in certain trees. The Moorpark Apricot is a notable 
sufferer, and I suppose, speaking generally, gumming is often 
caused by some injury to the branches, or a too free use of the knife. 
The fungus spores find a home where the bark is broken, and subse- 
quently gum is seen to be exuding from the wound. A tight shred, by 
forcing the branch into contact with a nail, may break the bark and 
provide a genial home for the fungus. When gum is seen exuding 



128 GARDENING DIFFICULTIES SOLVED 

from a branch or branches, if the tree is to be restored, cut out 
the infected part, and put on a poultice of cow manure, lime, soot, 
and clay, filling the wound with it, binding it on with a piece of 
cloth, and keeping the air from it until the wound has healed and 
filled up with new bark. Trees which are predisposed to gumming 
should be pruned chiefly in summer, and the knife as far as possible 
kept ofl^ them in the winter and spring. There are predisposing 
causes in cultivation, the most common being planting young trees 
in land which has been made too rich with manures. 

Mulching Young Fruit Trees 

Q. I have been told that it is a bad plan to manure the ground 
for young fruit trees at planting time. Is there any objection to 
giving manure afterwards? If not, how should it be applied] — 
Amateur, Watford. 

A. Many people adopt the commendable practice of avoiding 
the use of any natural manure at all when they are planting their 
young trees in autumn or spring, for they fully appreciate the fact 
that there is already suflBcient tendency to rampant growth without 
further encouraging it with stimulative materials. It is, however, 
most desirable to do something for the trees in the early summer 
which will encourage the roots to remain near the surface, instead 
of striking downwards into the cooler lower soil as soon as the 
weather becomes intensely hot and dry. To this end the grower 
should give as much water as may be necessary to moisten the soil 
to a depth of 3 feet or thereabouts, then fork over the surface 
and apply a 2-inch mulching of short manure. The food virtues 
of this will gradually find their way downwards, and the covering 
will tend to keep the surface cool and moist, and thus practically 
ensure the roots remaining near the top. 

Cordon Gooseberries 

Q. 1 have been recommended to plant cordon Gooseberries 
against a fence facing west. Do you advise my doing so ? — Grant, 
DorkiiKj. 

A. Cordon G-ooseberries fruit well either on north, south, east, 
or west fences. In fact, by planting a few on each aspect a welcome 
succession of fruit is obtained. Either single or multiple stemmed 
cordons may be chosen, the management of the plants does not 
present any serious difficulties. Summer pinching of the young 
shoots is necessary to admit light to the fruits and the buds on 



FRUIT GROWING PROBLEMS 



129 



the stems, while the winter pruning will simply consist uf hard 
cutting back to the two basal buds. Keep the surface loose and free 
from weeds, and maintain the supplies of available food by mulching 
in May with the finest natural manure that is at command. 




O SHOWS POINT OF SUMMER 

PKUNING PEAR ; B POINT OP 

WINTER PRUNING. 



Unfruitful Strawberries 



AS A RESULT OF STOPPING THE 
SHOOT FURTHER GROWTHS 
WILL FORM AS AT A. THESE 
TOO ARE STOPPED WHEN A 
PEW INCHES LONG. PRUNE 
BACK TO B IN WINTER. 



Q. My Strawberry plants have far too many leaves on them, and 
the leaves are too big. Can you give me any idea of the reason for 
this ? Many of the plants did not flower, and the others had not 
much fruit.— ,S^. A. G., Croydon. 

A. Your large, unfruitful plants of Strawberries have probably 
been layers taken from others which were unfruitful. Destroy them 
and plant fresh runners in August or early September. Strawberry 
layers should only be taken from plants that are fruitful. 

Raspberries Unsatisfactory 

Q. My Raspberry canes (which were planted sixteen years ago) 
have borne very little fruit this summer, and the new growths for 
J 



130 (lARDENING DIFFICULTIES SOLVED 

next year's crop are also disappointing. Every autumn I have 
stirred the surface soil very slightly and then laid on a fairly large 
quantity of stable manure. Is it possible that I have given them 
too much of this 1 — Cnncs, Hawick. 

A. Your Raspberry plants are very old, and the best thing you 
can do is to make a new plantation. The medium sized young canes 
from your old plantation may be used for the new one, but it would 
be more satisfactory to purchase new canes. The old plants may 
be retained for one more year until the new ones are remunerative. 
In the meantime allow the manure to lie on the surface, and do not 
dig it in either this autumn or in spring. The pruning of Rasp- 
berries is simple. The fruit is produced on the previous year's 
growth ; thus the shoots that have fruited are cut out as soon as 
the fruit is gathered. The young growths are, of course, taken care 
of and tied up ; they will fruit the next year. 

Ga^.hering Pears 

Q. Can you give me a few hints on gathering Pears ? — Amateur, 
S. Wales. 

A. Test the fruits by gently lifting, when if they part easily 
from the trees it may usually be safely taken as a sign of readiness 
for gathering, though not for eating. Late sorts should be allowed 
to hang as long as possible ; premature gathiTing of these will 
cause them to shrivel and be tough and leathery in texture, devoid 
of juiciness and flavour. 

The Loganberry 

Q. We are thinking of planting the Loganberry here, but as our 
soil is very heavy, with yellow clay subsoil, would you inform me if 
you think it would do in this soil? — Sutton, SKn-ei/. 

A. Yes ; you may plant the Loganberry in the heavy soil ; the 
plants will succeed very well. But it is advisable, of course, to 
trench the ground, and thoroughly break up the subsoil, leaving it 
below, however. The Loganberry grows vigorously in good soil, and 
is an admirable plant for covering unsightly fences, ugly corners, etc., 
or it maybe trained as an espalier. It fruits best when the branches 
are spread out. The pruning is similar to that needed by the 
Raspberry. Cut out the old growths as soon as they have fruited, 
and train in the new to fruit the following year. The best fruits are 
produced by canes of the previous summer's growth : removing the 
old shoots encourages the development of new ones. 



FRUIT GROWING PROBLEMS 



131 



Red Currants Failing 

Q. I have sent you a few leaves of my Red Currants, also a small 
box of fruit. Would you please tell me how I can prevent their 
getting so black ? The leaves first get in a sticky state and then 
turn black just as if soot had been thrown over them. Do you think 
smuts from chimneys would cause it 1 We have a brick kiln near. — 
J., Bradford. 

A. In the first place your Currant tree leaves have been infested 




Mi 



PBAB DUBONDEAU. 



badly with aphides, and the matter from them has covered the 
leaves with a sticky substance which has been favourable to the 
collection of dust, and soot from the brick kiln. The only thing you 
can do is to syringe the bushes early in the season and free the 
foliage from the aphides, and frequently afterwards to dislodge the 
dust and soot. 

Black Currants Affected with Big Bud 

Q. Can you tell me how to cure my Black Currants of this most 
troublesome pest ? — Anxious, Esher. 

A. Since the trees are young, having been planted only two years, 



132 GAKDENINC; DIFFICULTIES S(JLVED 

it would be rather unwise to uproot them all on account of the big 
bud. A better plan is to cut them all hard back now (April). Cut 
each infested shoot down to within a few inches of the ground, and 
remove by hand any suspiciously large buds as they appear. After 
this hard pruning, which at this season will mean the loss of a year's 
crop, dust the bushes with a mixture of lime and sulphur, and repeat 
the application after an interval of two weeks. Next spring dust 
again with lime and sulphur, using 1 part unslaked lime to 2 jjarts 
flowers of sulphur. Thoroughly dust the bushes over when they are 
wet, and continue to do so every few weeks until the middle of ]\Iay. 
After pruning carefully collect all the prunings and burn them. 
Yes ; it is quite likely that the old bushes will be affected since the 
disea.se is now present in your garden. As a preventive du.st the 
bushes over with the lime and sulphur mixture and pick off any buds 
unduly swollen. If you intend to propagate new plants from cut- 
tings be sure to do so from a clean stock. 

Gathering and Storing Filberts 

Q. Please say ho.w Filbert Nuts should be stored. — E. W. IF., 
Kent. 

A. The Nuts should be obtained on a fine dry day, not separating 
them from the husks. We have found it a good plan to lay them 
out on mats and sacks for a few days ; they are then readily picked 
up and carried to shelter at night or should rain set in. Afterwards, 
they may be stored in jars or boxes, or be spread out evenly and 
thinly upon the floor of a cool, dry shed. 

Keeping Medlars 

V. ^^'ill you tell me the best way to keep and ripen Medlars ? — 
J. AxtriiJije, Hantx. 

A. Gather the fruits before they are frozen on the trees, and 
store them on shelves in a cool, airy room where they will .';often and 
become fit for use. You only need guard against damp and decay of 
the fruits. 

Replanting Raspberries 

Q. I have a large stock of canes which have been allowed to run 
riot. They have grown over S feet high, and though there is every 
indication of a good supply of fruit we have not been able to net a 
handful from the complete row of over 80 feet run. I thought of 
transplanting them this year to a new situation and of making them 



FRUIT GllOWINCi PROBLEMS 138 

form a screen round a plot whicli I iiropose to make into a fruit 
garden. Do you recommend this, and ho tv can I proceed so as to 
malje tliem form sucli a screen 1 —T. E., Mitchan. 

A. Yes ; the Raspberries would do well planted to form a screen 
round the fruit quarter in the garden. The planting should be done 
in November. Select canes of medium strength and discard the 
gross and weakly ones. Dig the soil deeply and put in some rotted 
manure, and after planting is done put on a good surface mulch of 
littery manure. The canes should be planted about 9 inches apart. 
Black Currants do best in a cool position ; the Red and White 
varieties require an open, sunny place. 

How to Keep Walnuts 

Q. Would you kindly inform me as to the best way to keep Wal- 
nuts when they are ripe, so as to have them good for some length of 
time 1 — A. S., Surrey. 

A. When the Nuts are ripe, spread them out thinly just long 
enough to get the shells dry, then place them in bottles or jars, and 
securely cork the latter. Store the bottles or jars in a cool, dry cup- 
board. 

Q. Referring to the above question. As we have rather a large 
quantity this season, would tins such as biscuit tins answer the pur- 
pose if they were fastened down securely 1 We put some in a large 
pot with a piece of thick tin for a cover and buried them in the earth 
floor of the potting shed, but they did not keep. Was it because 
they were too damp or not sufficiently airtight? — A. Scrivener, 
Bucks. 

A. Yes ; if you can seal up the biscuit tins the Nuts may be kept 
in them. The Nuts, buried in the earth as you state, would rot, un- 
less they had been first dried and then kept in airtight vessels. 

Blackberries for the Garden 

Q. I am anxious to grow Blackberries. Should I plant the com- 
mon kind, or are there better sorts'!— J gnoramus, Bath. 

A. So widely are excellent Blackberries appreciated that one can- 
not help feeling surprised that they are not far more extensively 
planted in gardens. They do not involve either a great deal of 
space or a considerable amount of skilled attention, and the crops of 
fruit which they bear annually will be more than welcome. I should 
advise planters to beware of the majority of American varieties, for 
some of the seedlings of our own country are superior in every 



134 GARDENING DIFFICULTIES SOLVED 

respect. A really good form of the Parsley Leaved Bramble cannot 
be beaten, but apart from this selected wildings are the things to 
choose. Planted in deeply dug and generously manured ground in 
November, watered with liquid manure freely after perfect establish- 
ment, and mulched with good manure each winter, they will thrive 
and crop grandly for years. Practically the only attention demanded 
in the way of cutting is to remove all old shoots for which there is 
not room after the fruit is gathered. 

Morello Cherry 

Q. Is this a profitable fruit to grow on walls f—E. W., Hendon. 

A . The Morello Cherry is valuable for covering the walls of cottages, 
on which it hardly ever fails to produce good crops. It will thrive 
on a wall facing north . The fruits sell well, as they come in after 
the glut of other fruit is over. This Cherry grows and produces well 
on any aspect, and the simplest kind of training suits it best. Plant 
healthy, fan-trained trees, and let them spread out evenly in all 
directions. Keep them clean during the growing season by dusting 
with tobacco powder or syringing with tobacco water, dipping 
the points of the young shoots into the mixture. Cover with nets to 
keep oil' birds, so as to let the fruits get fully ripe. In winter cut out 
weakly and exhausted fruit, and nail in the young shoots of the pre- 
ceding summer's growth full length, as the ]Morello bears the finest 
fruit on the young wood. 

Pruning Roots of Pear Trees 

Q. I should like your advice about two Pear trees which I have. 
They are wall trees facing west and south-west, very vigorous, and 
plenty of bloom every year and set fruits, but when these get about 
the size of Peas they fall off. Every year this happens I get no 
fruit. This has been going on for nine years. They always bloom 
the second time each season, and seeing your article on root pruning 
I thought I would try the operation. I took out a trench -2 feet 
deep, about 3 feet away from the stem, half way round the tree, but 
could not find any roots to prune ; the roots seem to strike down 
into the subsoil close to the wall. I could not find any short fibrous 
roots near the surfa.ce at all. If you could advise me on the subject 
I should feel grateful. — iS'. C, Devonport. 

A. We are rather surprised you did not find any roots after dig- 
ging 2 feet deep at 3 feet from the stem of a tree nine yeai-s old- 
Possibly they have gone under the wall to the other side. If you 



FRUIT GROWING PROBLEMS 135 

can get at the other side, try to find them there. If this cannot be 
done, the next best thing to do is to open out the trench again, dig- 
ging it 1 foot deeper and clearing all the soil out. Fou must then 
tunnel under the tree until you come to the main tap roots, which 
you will find not far from a direct line of the stem of the tree. Cut 
them through and leave in the ground. Fill in the space tunnelled, 
ramming the soil hard, and we hope the effect will be to bring your 
trees round to fruit bearing condition. 

Standard Fruit Trees for Sandy Soil 

Q. I have a small space in my garden in which I wish to put 
standard fruit trees ; the soil is pure sand. I have had holes 5 feet 
square and 3 feet deep dug, into which I intend putting soil and 
manure. It is on the north slope of the hill. I have room for seven- 
teen trees 9 feet apart, and would be very glad if you could advise 
me what trees I ought to have. I thought of having Apples, Pears, 
Plums, and Cherries if I could get them suitable for the ground. I 
want them all for dessert fruit, not cooking, if possible. — Spindrift, 
Farnhani. 

A. The following varieties of the different kinds of fruit you 
require we hope will suit you well. They are strong growing, fruit- 
ful sorts. Six Apples, all dessert : Mr. Gladstone, ripe July and 
August ; Lady Sudeley, September ; James Grieve, October ; Cox's 
Orange Pippin, November to Christmas; Allington Pippin, 
December and January; Allen's Everlasting, January to 
March. Four Pears, all dessert : Williams' Bon Chretien, Septem- 
ber ; Louise Bonne of Jersey, October ; Emile d'Heyst, November ; 
Doyenne du Comice, December. Four Plums : Eeine Claude de 
Bavay (Gage), Old Green Gage, Kirk's, Transparent Gage. Three 
Cherries : Kentish Bigarreau, Guigne d'Annonay, Governor Wood. 

Cherry for "West Fence 

Q. Which is a good eating Cherry to grow on tarred boards, 
aspect west, soil gravel and clay? — G. E., Sussex. 

A. Frogmore Bigarreau, light, and Black Tartarian, dark, are 
suitable sorts. 

Three Late Keeping Apples 

Q. Which three late keeping Apples are most suitable for an 
orchard as standards, soil gravel and clay 1 — G. E., Sussex. 

A. Newton Wonder, Bramley's Seedling, and King Edward VII. 



136 GARDENING DTPFIGFLTIES SOLVED 

Manure for Strawberries 

(I. I have been advised to dre.s.s Strawberry beds heavily with 
stable manure. This I have not, but have a good quantity of 
fowl manure. AVould this do as well if used in smaller quantities 1 
—J. H., Devon. 

A. Littery manure is put on as a mulch to protect the roots as 
well as to feed the plants. Fowl manure would not answer the 
purpose as well, though you may apply it at the rate of 1 bushel 
per square rod of i^round in spring. It would feed the plants, 
but not protect them much. 

Cuttings of Gooseberries and Red and White Currants 

(J. I understand Oiiusebeiries and Currants are readily increased 
from cuttin.ns. Will you me tell how to prepare these? — Aniateur, 
Berl-s. 

A. Cuttings are made in October from the past summer's growth. 
Like Ro.se cuttings, they should be about 12 inches in length, but it 
is essential to cut out all the buds with the e.xception of about four 
of the uppermost, from which the bush i.s produced. Were the others 
left they would be a constant source of annoyance from the suckers 
they would certainly produce. Insert the cuttings similarly to those of 
Koses. In making Black Currant cuttings the lower buds are not 
cut out. 

FRUITS UNDER GLASS 

Nectarines Shrivelling 

Q. I enclose herewith a Nectarine. Will you tell me the cause 
of its shrivelling and, in nwny ca.se>, the cause of the non-stoning of 
the fruit ? The tree is well established in an unheated leanto Peach 
house. Also, Avhat should be the night temperature of the house 
after the blossoms have set I — /(jnonint, Haiiipxfiirf. 

J. The Xectiuines have been mildewed when they wei-e in a 
green state, and it is the cause of the fruit's decay now. The soil is 
deficient in lime, and in consequence the fruit did not stone properly. 
After the fruits liave set, ,i night temperature of »iO"' will be suffi- 
cient. 

Peaches Stringy 

(,>. Could you tell me the cause of Peaches .getting stringy towards 
the stone? — C. D., <'heshiir. 



FRUIT GROWING PROBLEMS 



l.iT 



A. We think that this is a (]uestion of the varieties of Peaches 
you may happen to grow, as the Clingstone \'arieties often have 
this failing. You say that your trees are very healthy, and the fruits 
very fine, therefore the stringiness cannot be the fault of the cultural 
treatment. 

Fertilising Melon Flourers 

Q. I understand that the female flowers of ilelons have to be 
fertilised ; could you tell me how to tell the female flowers and how- 
to fertilise them ? — G. V. W,, Cheshire. 




GROWTH OP MELOX SHOWING 
MALE OR POLLEN FLOWER. 



JCELOX SHOOT SHOWING 
FUJFALE FLOWER. NOTK 
THE EJIBBYl ) FRUIT AT .V. 



A. You will readily recognise the female flowers of the ilelon 
by the embryo fruit at the base, and by the absence of anthers (bear- 
ing pollen), while the male flowers bear anthers only, no stigma. To 
fertilise the female blossoms, pluck a male flower and apply the 
pollen from the anthers to the stigma of the former. The best time 
to do this is about midday. The atmosphere is then likely to be 
dry ; a dry air is necessary to fertilisation. In wet, dull weather 
Melon fruits often fail to " set " or form. 

Pears and Plums under Glass 

Q. I have a Peach house, facing south, with a high wall, and I 
should like to grow some Cordon Pears and Plums on the back, as 
it is not a very good district for growing fruit outside. If you think 
it is a suitable position, I should be glad if you would name a few 
varieties.— IF. W., Wahall. 



138 GARDENING DIFFICULTIES SOLVED 



A. Yes; you may grow Cordon Pears and Plum trees on the 
back wall of your Peach house successfully, if j'ou do not force them 
too hard. Marie Louise Marie Louise d'Uccle, Souvenir du Congrfes, 
Durondeau, Pitmaston Duchess, Doyenne du Cornice, Louise Ponne 
of Jersey, and Williams' Bon Chretien, Pears ; and Denniston's 
Superb, Green Gage, Jefferson, Kirke's, and Transparent Gage Plums 
may be planted. It is impossible to force Plums and Pears as 
Grapes, Peaches and Xectarines may be forced. They will not 
succeed in a high temperature. LTntil the fruits are formed an 
average temperature of 50' is high enough, afterwards it may be 
increased to 60 \ 




.MALE ,\NI) KK.M.VLB PLOWEHS OF THK JtP.LOX. THE L.\TTER 

ARK KASILA" DISTINUUISHRD BV THK EJIBHYO FRUIT 

liKI.OW THE PET.ALS. THE THIRD FIGURE SHOWS HOW POLLI- 

XATION IS CARRIED I H'T. 

Cherries and Tomatoes Growrn in Same House 

Q. Can Cherries be forced profitably so as to get the house 
cleared by the end of May? to be followed by Tomatoes that have 
been brought on in 5-inch pots in another house. — CV. W. 7'., St'tri's. 

A. Cherries in pots can be successfully forced to produce Cherries 
from the first to the last week in May. The plants should be brought 
under glass the first week in December ; started in low temperature 
(40°), and forced very slowly without excitint; the trees until the fruit 
is set, when more heat, up to 60*^, may be applied. Governor Wood, 
Early Kivers, Frogmore Bigarreau, and Black Tartarian are suitable 
sorts. 



FRUIT GROWING PROBLEMS 139 

Nectarines Splitting 

Q. Can you say why ray Nectarines grown under glass have split 
badly ?-G^. E. H., Worcester. 

A. The cause of the Necturines splitting is insufficient ventila- 
tion during hot weather. Temperatures under glass rise in conse- 
quence, causing so great an acceleration in the flow of sap as partly 
to congest the arteries through which it flows. Hence an overflow, 
and the consequent splitting of the fruit. Remedy : Eeduce the 
temperature by free ventilation night and day whilst the hot 
weather lasts. You may safely let the temperature drop to 50'' Fah. 
or lower at night ; in the middle of the day, with sun heat and plenty 
of air in the house, it may rise to 80° or 85'^ for a few hours. 

On Growing Cucumbers 

Q- I am anxious to be able to gather Cucumbers in April. Will 
they need a hotbed, and when should I sow the seed "? — E. J. A'., 
Enfield. 

A. First get together suitable material for filling the pits. The 
best material for keeping up a steady heat is that composed of 
freshly gathered up leaves and short stable manure mixed well 
together and turned several times in an open shed, previous to 
filling the Cucumber pit. Sowing the seed in small pots early 
in January is the plan usually adopted, as this ensures no check 
in potting on. Use soil fairly damp and plunge in the hotbed, 
giving no water until germination takes place. When the third 
true leaf appears they may be planted out into mounds of rich soil. 
Syringe the plants frequently with tepid water, and see that a con- 
stant and suflScient heat is maintained. A night temperature of 
60°-65° is best, rising 10° during the day without sun heat. Keep 
free from draughts. Cucumbers require a warm atmosphere with 
little ventilation. 



CHAPTER X 
Trees and Shrubs 
Self Clinging Climbers 

Q. Will you please give me a list of self clinging climbers, other 
thaa Ivy, suitable for a cement wall facing south 1 — S. H. P., Belfast. 

A. The following are suitable : Hydrangea petiolaris, Yitis semi- 
cordata, and of course Ampelopsis Veitchi. The choice of self 
clinging climbers, excluding Ivy, is very limited, but these three are 
good growers and thrive in most places. 

Planting Bed of Flowering Shrubs 

Q. 1 enclose a rough sketch of bed 24 feet long, 12 feet wide, 
with wall 3 feet high at back facing east, well sheltered by house 
and buildings. Will you advise the best flowering shrubs and bush 
Roses to grow for garden decoration intermixed with hardy annuals, 
and, finally, bedding out plants 1 I wish to make a tennis lawn on 
south-west side of wall, but I want to hide it from the other part 
of the garden without having the shrubs too high and cumbersome. 
Will you also advise how to plant ] I should like bush Roses of 
the Sweet Briar class, but do not wish to confine myself to that 
class alone. — Beijinner, maiidfonJ. 

A. Taking the part of the house nearest the bed, we should plant 
the following shrubs and Roses, which would occupy a width say of 
about 6 feet. Commencing near the Bay tree, plant Clenista andre- 
anua, Rose Aglaia, Philadelphus granditiorua, Veronica Traversii, 
Lilac Madame Lemoine, Spartium junceum, Rose Hiawatha 
on stump or pole. Then, starting 3 feet away from these plant?, 
Rose Blush Rambler, standard Pyrus Malus floribunda. Hybrid 
Sweet Briar Lady Penzance, Buddleia veitchiana, Hybrid Sweet 
Briar Anne of Geiurstein, standard double flowering Cherry Jas. H. 
A'eitch, Forsythia suspensa. Rose Rubin. Towards the outer side of 
bed, starting near Rose Blush Rambler, plant Weigela E. Rathke, 
Rose Goldfinch, Rose Conrad F. Meyer Spiraea A. Waterev, Rose. 
Tausendschon, Guelder Rose, Hybrid Sweet Briar, Amy Robsart, 
Rose Gruss an Teplitz, Rose Leuchtstern, Pyrus Mains angustifolia. 

140 



TREES AND SHRUBS 141 

Should you want a few slow growing subjects to finish off with 
plant Yucca flaccida, double flowering Gorse, Fuchsia Riccartoni. 
Caryopteris Mastacanthus, and Hibiscus Lotus albus. Allow the 
Roses to grow as free bushes, and do not crowd any of the plants, 
rather leave some out altogether. One cannot quite definitely say 
how to arrange unless one is on the spot, but this is a general idea. 

Evergreen Shrubs to Grov; Beneath Austrian Pine 

Q. Can you tell me if there is any evergreen shrub that will 
thrive beneath an Austrian Pine 1 — E. H. T., Southampton. 

A. The best evergreen shrubs to grow beneath Austrian Pines 
are Rhododendron ponticum, Aucuba japonica, Berberis Aquifo- 
lium. Periwinkle, St. John's Wort (Hypericum calycinum), and 
common Ivy. The Pine leaves are detrimental to many shrubs, 
but the above plants succeed fairly well, more especially when the 
leafage is not very dense. 

Shrubs and Plants for Border Facing North 

Q. Please give a list of shrubs and plants suitable for north 
border. — M. S. 8., Hazlemere. 

A. Aucuba, Laurustinus, Euonymus, Lilac (Syringa), Laurel, 
Deutzia, Spiraea (S. aruncus being very suitable), Campanula, 
Anemone, Sunflower, Veronica, Michaelmas Daisies, Gaillardia, 
Delphinium, herbaceous Phloxes and Funkia, tuberous Begonia, 
Fuchsia, Phlox Drummondii, Mignonette, Stocks, Asters, Marigolds, 
and Marguerites are suitable. 

Plants to form Strong Fence 

Q. I am about to put a fence around a plot of ground intended 
for garden, and I thought of planting a Myrobalan Plum for a quick 
growing and an almost impregnable fence. Should be glad if you will 
give your opinion on the following : Would it be wise to mix the 
Myrobalan Plum with Privet or not? Would it add to beautifying 
the place if fronting the road was planted with say Hornbeam or 
Hornbeam and Privet mixed, or same as above 1 Do you advise 
Holly for the front, say bushes about 2* feet in height?— TT. M., 
Lynn. 

A. Myrobella Plum and Privet would form a very good fence or 
hedge. Put in three plants of the former and then one of the latter. 
Yes ; Holly would do splendidly for a front fence. Put in the plants 
zigzag fashion and about 15 inches apart from plant to plant. 



142 GARDENING DIFFICULTIES SOLVED 

Pruning Deutzia 

Q. This flowering shrub has been very beautiful in m3' garden, but 
I am at a loss as to how to prune it. Please advise.— 1?. A. M.^ 
King's Li/iiii. 

A. All that is necessary is to thin out to the base feeble and 
weak growths where they are crowded, and to leave the plant in such 
a condition that it appears shapely. This may be done as soon as it 
has finished flowering. If you cut it hard down, as you propose 
doing, it would simply give rise to an abundance of young and use- 
less growth. 

On Planting Trees 

Q. I should be glad of your advice as to the proper method 
of planting trees. Which is the best Pine to plant to form a screen ? 
— Midhiiid. 

A. Since the soil is a tenacious clay and presumably not well 
drained, the stations in which the trees are to be planted .should be 
dug out to a depth of 24 or 3 feet ; the width of the stations should 
be in proportion to the trees or shrubs to be planted ; in your soil 
they cannot be too large. Place broken bricks at the bottom, and 
follow with lime rubble and rough turf. Plant the trees to their 
previous depth, and carefully spread out all the roots before covering 
in the soil. If possible, some good, coarse, turfy loam should be in- 
troduced with the garden soil at the time of planting, but the soil 
which immediately covers the roots should be tine. One of the best 
Pines to form a screen is the Corsican Pine, Pinus Laricio ; it is of 
rapid growth, and rabbits and hares are said not to interfere with it. 
In planting Pines and Lombardy Poplars to form a screen they 
should be placed rather closely together, so that the alternate trees 
may be removed after a year or two. The distance apart depends 
entirely upon the size of the trees at the time they leave the nursery- 
man's hands. In addition to the Lombardy Poplar and the Corsican 
Pine, the following are suitable to form a screen or wind break ; 
Hornbeam, Larch, Austrian Pine, and Dou,;;las Spruce. 

When to Transplant Shrubs 

Q- Please tell me the best time to transplant the shrubs 
mentioned. — H. IT. A'., Clifford. 

A. Rhododendrons and Azaleas can be transplanted with safety 
in early April, and we should advise you to defer the operation until 
that season. The Mock Orange, Berberis, and Clerodendron may all 



TREES AND SHRUBS 14;J 

be removed in October. Transplanting will not delay the time of 
flowering of your strong growing Clerodendron trichotomum ; it is 
more likely to induce it to flower. Lilies may be lifted in October 
and stored in dry silver sand for the winter in a frostproof shed. 

Planting Ampelopsis 

Q. I should be much obliged if you could tell me the best time 
to plant Ampelopsis Veitchi and any special cultural hints.— ^1. E. B., 
Watford. 

A. The best time to plant is in early November or late October, 
although planting may be carried out between October and the end 
of March when the weather is mild. This plant is of the simplest 
cultivation, and all you have to do is to attach the shoots to the wall 
to give it a start. 

Hedge Round Garden 

Q. I am thinking of planting a hedge round my cottage garden, I 
want one that will grow strong and quickly. I thought perhaps 
Privet would be most suitable. — C. G. B., Basingstoke. 

A, You would probably find Privet the best plant for your pur- 
pose. It will make a good hedge sooner than anything else. Make 
sure you get the oval-leaved Privet (Ligustrum ovalifolium). Horn- 
beam makes a good hedge and is fairly quick growing, while Quick 
or Thorn has much to recommend it. 

About Clematis, Quick Growing Plant, and Low Hedge 

Q. What quick growing plant would you recommend for hiding 
cottage bedroom windows overlooking vegetable garden 1 What 
would make a nice low hedge in front of drawing room and facing 
drive gate? Last spring we planted two Clematises, Jackmani 
superba and Gipsy Queen, to trail on pillars of verandah in drive. 
The former grew quickly to about 7 feet and ready to blossom, when 
suddenly it began to droop and died downwards. — Jfrs. Adams, 
Bucks. 

A. Clematis plants thrive best in a naturally dry situation, and 
in a fairly light soil. The plants do sometimes die down suddenly, 
owing to some check. The young shoots may grow up and prove 
successful. Ceanothus azureus Gloire de Versailles bears long spikes 
of lavender blue flowers from midsummer to late autumn. It would 
be a charming substitute. Cupressus macrocarpa would quickly 
grow and form a screen ; and the oval-leaved Privet or Euonymus 



in (;ai;i)Ening difficulties solved 

or Daisy Bush, Olearia Haasti, would prove satisfactory as a low 
hedge. 

Pruning Clematis montana 

(^). The house that I have leased has a very old Clematis montana 
growing over porch in front. When I first saw the house this was a 
mass of white bloom, but underneath the bloom was a thick mass of 
dead wood, which I thought most objectionable. When doing up 
the house all this had to be cut away, now the front of the house is 
covered with long trails. I am told there will be no blossom next 
year if I trim these long trails, but I cannot have them hanging all 
over the place, yet I should like to have the blossom. — M. de K., 
Bourneniu uth, 

A. C. montana requires quite different treatment from C. Jack- 
mani, as the former flowers next yeiir on the growths made this 
year. If you wish for flowers next year you must leave this year's 
young growths. Cut back the plant each year as soon as the tiowers 
are over. C. Jackmani is in flower now (August) on the growths 
made this spring and early summer. 

Pruning Ivy 

Q. Please tell me how to proceed when pruning Ivy on wall. 
When should I prune?— .E'. J/. //., Ashbourne. 

A. The specimen you send is one of the large-leaved Ivies, called 
Hedera Helix Amurensis. You may prune it in March, and it can 
be cut back fairly hard so as to get it back to the wall. Subsequent 
prunings may take place twice a year, spring and summer, to keep 
it within bounds, the spring pruning being severe and the second or 
summer pruning in July light. In the former ca?e it may be cut 
well back to the wall, whilst in the latter case the long, loose shoots 
only should be shortened. It i.s usually advisable to use a knife 
instead of shears for the large leaved Ivies, for if leaves are mutilated 
they are very unsightly. 

Evergreens for Hedge 

Q. Can you ad\isc as to planting an evergreen shrub for a 
division line position, north side of house shaded by an Ash tree, 
height to be kept to -2 feet? Would Butcher's Broom (Euscus 
aculeatus) be suitable? if so, would it be too late to plant now 
(Noveuilierl ? and what distance apart should you plant to form a 
continuous row ! 1 want to keep clear of Privet. — F. M., Leici ster. 

A. The plant you suggest, Butcher's Broom (Kuscus aculeatus), 



146 GARDENING DrPFICULTIES SOLVED 

will be suitable for the position you mention. The distance apart 
to place the plants will depend entirely on their size, but from 9 to 
12 inches would be a suitable distance for average sized plants. 
Other useful shrubs for such a position are Gaultheria Shallon and 
Berberis (Mahonia) Aquifolium. The latter is an easily obtained 
plant, does very well in shade, and stands cutting back well. 
November is a good month for planting. 

Transplanting a Holly 12 feet High 

Q. Might I safely undertake the transplantation of a Holly 
12 feet high 1 If so, when should the work be done? — Jf. J/., fftrfx. 

A. It is quite possible safely to transplant a Holly 12 feet high, 
but it must be done carefully. The work should be done either in 
September or early May. You will need to move a large ball of 
earth with it, especially if it is a very old specimen. Two men will 
be required to get the plant ready to transplant — that is to work 
round the ball and tie it up tightly in stout canvas, undermine it, 
and place two pieces of plank beneath the centre — and prepare the 
new position. If it is only to be moved a short distance a trench 
can be made from one hole to the other, and four or five men will 
be able to do the work by means of planks and rollers. If, however, 
it has to be moved some distance it will have to be rolled out of the 
hole by means of an inclined plane and rolled into the new one. by 
the same means ; this would require eight to ten men, according to 
the size of the ball. 

Evergreen Shrubs for Garden 

Q. Please name shrubs that will keep green all the winter, say, 
for ordinary soil near house. What shrubs can you recommend for 
planting soon (October) ? — E. S., Becl-enham. 

A. The following shrubs would do well with you, and keep green 
all the winter. Aucuba japonica, Berberis stenophylla, B. (Mahonia) 
Aquifolium, Tree Ivies, Rhododendron ponticum and any of the 
garden varieties, variegated Box, Olearia Haastii, and Laurustinus. 
The latter may be damaged if a very severe winter is experi- 
enced, but it usually grows again from the bottom. All may be 
planted at once. The two best for a sluidy place are Aucuba japon- 
ica and Rurberis Aquifolium. Any ordinary garden soil is suitable 
for these shrubs except the Rhododendrons. These can cntl^v be 
grown in places where linio is not found in any great quantity 
although they do not need peat as commonly supposed, 



148 GARDENING DIFFICULTIES SOLVED 

Sowing Seeds of and Pruning Forest Trees 

Q. Please give me information about the sowing of seeds of 
Larch, Oak, Ash, Beech, the time to collect the seeds, and the time 
to prune Ash, Oak, and Beech. — ir. J. B., Norfolk. 

A. Larch, Oak, and Beech seeds may be collected in early 
October. Ash should be collected in August. Oak and Beech ought 
to be sown in October in nursery beds 4 feet wide. If you are 
troubled by mice, roll the seeds in red lead before sowing. Larch 
seeds may be either sown in October or kept until spring. If kept 
until the latter time store in a cool room. As Oaks lose their 
vitality very quickly if allowed to become dry, store them in damp 
sand if you are unable to sow when gathered. Ash seeds may be 
sown as soon as collected. Oak, Beech, and Ash trees may be 
pruned any time between the beginning of June and end of Decem- 
ber, but not during the spring and late winter months. If the trees 
are planted under proper forest conditions they ought to require no 
other pruning than the snipping off of a rival leader, for, by close 
planting, the trunks clean themselves. If you are going to pruvie 
large trees, be careful to make the cuts well up to the trunk and 
tar the wounds over as soon as made. 

Raising a Stock of Evergreens 

Q. I should be glad if you wou Id tell me how I can raise a stock 
of evergreen plants for shrubbery planting. — E. I'. U., WilUsrhn. 

A. October is probably the best month of the .year for the 
propagation of hardy evergreen shrubs by means of cuttings. Pro- 
tection is unnecessary, yet a frame is very useful when choice 
varieties have to be dealt with, as they root more readily with 
this assistance. Choose pieces from 6 inches to 1 foot in length 
and remove the lower leaves. A north border that is slightly 
protected is the best position for them, and they should be inserted 
to about two thirds their length, placing a little sand in the bottom 
of the trench to assist root formation. Make quite firm, and if 
after severe frost any are lifted they should be trodden down 
immediately ; the lifting power that frost possesses is remarkable. 
Rough winds will also cause damage if the cuttings are not kept 
firm. Where a frame is used this precaution is to a certain extent 
unnecessary, but it is well to look over them after a spell ot hard 
frost. Among the shrubs which may be propagated thus are 
common Laurel, Aucuba, Privet, Box, Choisya ternata (in the 
south), Euonyraus, etc. 



CHAPTER XI 
Home Grown Vegetables 

Storing Carrots and Turnips 

Q. Please instruct me how to store Carrots and Turnips properly. 
I have lost many through improper storage. — A.S. T., Edinburgh. 

A. On the approach of severe weather, that is generally during 
October, the Carrots should be very carefully lifted, some of the 
superabundant earth removed, the tops neatly cut off, and the roots 
stored in sacks with the heads outwards, filling in the crevices and 
covering with sand. They may also be stored in clamps out of 
doors in the manner often practised with Potatoes. Or they may be 
stored in a frostproof shed in layers with straw between each layer. 
The Turnips would be better used as they are lifted, but they 
may be kept for a time, in the manner advised for Carrots, in a 
frostproof shed. 

On Growing Cardoons I 

Q. I should be glad of some help in the matter of growing the 
Cardooh, a vegetable I am fond of, but which is greatly neglected. 
— J. U., Monmouth. 

A. We do not recommend you to try to propagate the Cardoon 
from the shoots sent up from the roots, as it is so readily raised from 
seed sown after the winter has passed. Seed should be sown in the 
places where the plants are to be grown. Sow the seed in little 
bunches about 18 inches apart in rows 4 feet apart. The plants can 
then be thinned to one at each station, and in due time secured 
to stakes. Blanching should take place when full growth is attained, 
i.e. during August. It takes about two months to blanch properly. 
If you wish to save time you could sow seed under glass in May and, 
after planting out, adopt the French method of covering each plant 
with straw thatched from the bottom to the top around each plant. 
A small ridge of soil is drawn to the foot, and blanching is perfected 
in about a month. The Cardoon does not meet with the favour in 
Britain'with which it is regarded on the Continent, where the stalks 
and midribs of the inner leaves are esteemed in soups and salads. 

149 



150 GARDENING DIFFICULTIES SOLVED 

Clubbing among Vegetables, Application of Lime 

Q. Cabbages and other vegetables of the Brassica family are 
badly attacked by club. I thought of applying lime to the soil ti > 
improve matters. Is this right 1 if so, how much .should I apply ?— 
H. A. -B., Xeyport. 

A. You are. certainly contemplating the right thing, for nothing 
will tend to check the ravages of this widespread disease more than 
lime. Scatter freshly slaked lime all over the surface of the soil in 
October or November. On a large scale it may be used with good 
effect from b to 7 tons per acre. The lime .should be dug into the 
ground after the lapse of two or three days. Do not apply the lime 
so near to the fruit trees that it is brought in direct contact with the 
roots when digging in. 

Young Marrows Failing to Develop 

(/ Can you tell me why Vegetaljle Marrows, when 1 inch or 
2 inches long, refuse to grow any bigger and are worthless ? — 
E. W. M., Cke^u-r. 

A. The reason for the young Marrows turning yellow and 
damping off when about 1 inch or -2 inches in length is their not 
being fertilised. The Marrow plant produces two kinds of flowers 
—the female which bears the Marrow fruit, and the male which 
pollinates the female. If the female flowers are not pollinated, they 
are in consequence unfertilised and therefore undeveloped. As a 
rule bees are responsible for the pollination of Marrow flowers ; 
in order that bees and other insects should perform this work it 
is very necessary that the male flowers should not be removed, for 
it sometimes happens that the male flowers are picked off under 
the wrong impression that they are false blooms and of no use to 
the plant. The very damp and much colder weather which we 
have had may also have a good deal to do with the Marrows failing 
to set their fruits. 

Club Disease in Cabbages 

(■I. Please tell me what causes these knotted lumps on Cabbages. 
My crop is'badly attacked by this disease. The leaves are much 
eaten by caterpillars. — W. ,9. T., Mnlvern. 

A . The plants are affected by club disease and attacked by the 
grubs of the Cabbage butterfly at the same time. As soon as you 
can manage to do it the allotment should be given a heavy dressing 
of lime, for this is the best known agent to ward off the club root 



HOME GROWN VEGETABLES 151 

disease of Cabbages, Turnips, and similar crops. It would be as 
well to grow Potatoes, Onions, or otlier crops, and to give all the 
Brassicas a change, since they are so liable to be attacked on your 
soil. It is quite possible that the plants were attacked at the 
time of planting out. They should be examined at planting time, 
and if affected the roots should be puddled in a mixture of paraffin, 
soft soap, and soot water. 

liiming Ground for Potatoes 

Q. Please assist me in the following. I have a plot of garden 
ground (26 poles), to which I intend giving lime. The soil is medium 
stiff. What quantity would you advise me to give it 1 The best 
time to put on, now (autumn) or spring? Whether to dig or fork 
it inl I am to crop it with Potatoes again. — Constant Reader, 
MontroM. 

A. Deeply dig your plot, leaving the soil rough on the surface. 
Then apply 2 pecks of slaked lime (in powder form) per rod of 
ground. Scatter the powdered lime evenly on the surface, and let it 
remain so for a few weeks, then fork it in. 

Asparagus 

Q. Can I water Asparagus beds with sea water, and frequently or 
otherwise ^—H. B., I. of W. 

A. Seaweed in moderation is a good manure to use in the making 
of new Asparagus beds, but we have never known or heard of beds 
being watered with sea water. Unless very greatly diluted, the 
result of using it, we think, would be disastrous to the Asparagus 
plants. Asparagus plants thrive best when kept on the dry side 
during winter, and should be watered only in spring and early sum- 
mer when growing fast, and again at the end of summer to help the 
grass plump up good crowns for next year's bearing. Liquid manure 
from a farmyard is best ; in the absence of this an occasional light 
dressing of Peruvian guano is the next best, washing it in with a 
copious application of clean water. 

Saving Seed of Onions 

Q. I have some good Onions, grown from a prize strain, and wish 
to save seed. Kindly advise.— Grower, GJiertsey. 

A. Only bulbs of uniform shape and large size, according to the 
variety, should be selected for seed production. It is found in prac- 
tice that new forms quickly deteriorate if selection is not rigidly 



152 GARDENING DIFFICULTIES SOLVED 

carried out. February is the best time to plant tlie bulbs out, and a 
sheltered position in a rich soil should be chosen for them. So long 
as the soil is in a rich and fertile condition you need not add any 
more manure. Care should be taken to tie up the flower stalks, 
each to a stake, as soon as support is needed. The time to harvest 
depends upon the condition of the seed vessels ; thus, as soon as they 
begin to turn brown and to burst open, the heads should be cut otf 
and dried in the sun. Afterwards place them in paper bags and 
suspend them from the roof of a cool and dry shed. The seed is 
readily cleaned, and may be kept for a season or two, but it cannot 
be depended upon afterwards. 

Forcing Rhubarb 

Q. Will you please tell me how to proceed to force Khubarb ? 
—21. K., D<ty1/„rd. 

A. Khubarb is one of the easiest of vegetables to force, and any 
structure having a temperature ranging from 5.5° to (in'-^ may be 
used for the purpose ; or the loots may be covered in the open 
air with boxes -i feet in height, having lids, and sufficiently wide 
to accommodate the crowns. Rhubarb pots, too, are often used. 
They may Ije bought at any pottery, and with care will last for 
years. The easiest method of forcing Khubarb is to lift some strong 
roots and plant them in large pots or boxes, and place them under 
glass ; or the roots may be set moderately close together upon 
the ground, and covered with soil 2 inches above the crowns. Then 
give them a thorough soaking with water, to settle the soil among 
the roots. Afterwards, too, when in active growth, they must be 
well supplied with water, or the stems will be tough and stringy 
Any structure will suit Rhubarl), provided it has a warm, moist 
temperature. A furcing pit heated with hot water is, however, 
the best place for it where required in large quantities and of the 
very best quality, ^^'hen forced in the open garden underneath 
pots or boxes, a heap of warm manure must be placed round each 
box. Where not forced, some long litter placed over the crowns 
early in spring will encourage early growth, when a few dishes 
may be had before the general crop i;omes into use. 

Useful Winter Vegetables 

Q. Could you give a list of useful winter vegetables with concise 
cultural directions?— xl;«t'?7/, Lu-ds. 

A. From a May sowing on a piece of good ground, and treated 



HOME GROWN VFJGETABLES 153 

like Carrots, splendid roots nearly 18 inches long of Salsafy or 
Oyster Plant may be had by November. When properly cooked 
and served they form a really excellent dish. Scorzonera requires 
identical treatment, and where one is appreciated the other is sure 
to be welcome. Good Turnips are often at a premium late in the 
year, and Kohl Rabi makes a very good substitute. Sown in drills 
in April, 15 inches apart and thinned out to 1 foot in the rows, 
good roots will be available for winter use; the purple variety is 
best for winter. They require more cooking than Turnips. While 
every gardener is familiar with the ordinary Purple Sprouting variety 
which proves so valualjle in early spring, the merit of Christmas 
Sprouting Broccoli for providing a dish at midwinter is sadly over- 
looked. Plants from an early April sowing grow nearly 4 feet 
across, and give an abundance of good sprouts to be cooked like 
Asparagus during the festive season. It is more dwarf and compact 
growing than the ordinary variety, and stands severe frosts with 
impunity. Green Sprouting Broccoli is a great acquisition to the 
winter vegetables. The young shoots are produced in great abund- 
ance, and if picked while young make a delicious vegetable, even 
to those who often rate Winter Greens unpalatable. Stewed Celery 
is well known, in fact, owing to the great demand for it, many 
gardeners wish it were not so ; it is a trifle disheartening to get 
up nearly a dozen of one's best sticks, only to find later more 
than half the stick has been thrown away. In such cases it will 
be as well to try to introduce Celeriac, the roots of which make 
a valuable winter vegetable, and do not require nearly so much 
time spent upon them during the summer as Celery does. 

Black Scab in Potatoes 

Q. My Potatoes are attacked by the black scab disease. Can it 
be cured 1~E. 0. H., Hants. 

A. The disease may be introduced with the seeds or sets, or it 
may be present in the soil from a diseased crop. If scabbed 
Potatoes are used for seed without having been sterilised, the result- 
ing crop will almost certainly be diseased, and in addition the fungus 
will pass into the soil, where it is capable of living for several years. 
But scabbed Potatoes may be used for seed without the slightest 
danger of spreading the disease if they are immersed for two hours 
in a solution of 4 pint of commercial formalin (formaldehyde 40 per 
cent.) mixed with 18 gallons of water. The Potatoes are then spread 
out to dry, when they may be cut and planted in the usual manner- 



154 GARDENING DIFFICULTIES SOLVED 

Care must be taken after the Potatoes have been treated with the 
formalin solution that they are not used for food, and they should 
not be placed in sacks or hampers that have contained scabbed 
Potatoes. Land that has produced scabbed Potatoes should not be 
planted vi^ith Potatoes for several years afterwards. Beet, Swedes, 
Carrots, and Cabbages are also affected by the fungus ; cereals may 
be sown with safety on infected land. In the case of gardens and 
small allotments, where, of necessity. Potatoes are grown every year, 
the trenches in which the Potatoes are planted should be sprinkled 
with flowers of sulphur, this being done by means of a bellows 
apparatus. As you require 45 bushels of Potatoes for table use, you 
would need to plant j acre, the produce of 1 acre of late Potatoes 
being about 6 tons, and 45 bushels equals 224 cwt., so that some 
margin will be left in excess to account for small or otherwise 
unusable tubers. It certainly pays allotment holders to grow their 
own Potatoes with land at Is. per rod, £8 per acre, also many private 
and public establishments ; your cost of labour, however, is high, 24s. 
per week, and that may make just all the difference between econo- 
mical and unremunerative production. I 

The Carrot Fly 

Q. Please say what worm this is cfttacking my carrots. Some of 
the roots are a rusty brown colour, while others are rotten. — A . 2\ S., 
L'o/rhesfer. 

A. The worm is the larva or maggot of the Carrot fly. The fly 
does not, as a rule, attack them until the end of !May. The flies 
appear in spring, and when the Carrot roots are well established the 
flies lay their eggs on them just below the ground. When full fed 
the maggots leave the roots for pupation in the soil ; the pupa case 
is light brown in colour, horny, and striated. There are several 
generations during the summer, but it is a remarkable fact that Car- 
rots sown after the middle of July are seldom attacked, and good, 
useful Carrots are obtained by sowing about that time, say after 
early Potatoes. The freeing of the ground from pupae by dressing 
with gas lime in winter is an old fashioned preventive, but as the 
fly infests other umbelliferous plants the thing is to keep a sharp 
look out for the flies, and when they are seen about or on the Carrot 
plants, spray these with a solution of paraflin emulsion, 1 part of 
emulsion to 20 parts of water. This can be put on with a syringe 
having a spraying nozzle. To act preventively, spray the Carrot 
bed, after sowing, with the paraffin emulsion; spray again with it 



HOME GROWN VEGETABLES 155 

after the plants are well above ground ; and a third time after thin- 
ning. 

Mint During Winter 

Q. How can I obtain a supply of Mint during winter 1.^ Chester. 

A. Procure some boxes in which holes have been made for drain- 
age, cover these with a large layer of leaves or short straw, 
then a layer of soil on top ; next lift some of the roots from the 
beds, shake off most of the old soil, then place them in boxes 
as close together as possible, covering them with 1 inch or so of 
soil. Any old potting soil will do. Give a good watering, after 
which place in a warm house. The roots will soon begin to pro- 
duce an abundance of nice green shoots. In place of boxes, if so 
desired, pots may be substituted, and will often be found more 
convenient, especially where only a very small quantity is required. 
As there is often a demand for Mint before it comes on under 
natural conditions, this method of forcing is particularly handy, since 
it entails little or no trouble beyond a plentiful supply of moisture. 

Wlien and How to Form an Asparagus Bed 

Q. Can you tell me the best time to plant A.sparagus, and how 
to begin to form a bed 1—S. A. 6., Devon. 

A. The best time to plant Asparagus is during the month of 
April. Trench the ground in the autumn, and put in plenty of 
manure if the soil is poor in quality. Form low beds with shallow 
alleys between if the soil is light, and if it be heavy raise the beds 
6 inches. Put out the plants in rows 15 inches apart, and 9 inches 
from plant to plant in the rows. 

Tomato Fruits not Setting 

Q. Can you tell me why the fruits fail to form on my Tomato 
plants in the greenhouse 1 They bloom well, but instead of setting 
the flowers fall oK— Anxious, Bije. 

A . The soil most probably needs a liberal dressing of lime. Do 
not plant Tomatoes in it again at least for a year. Instead of plant- 
ing them in the border, plant them in boxes, tubs, or pots, using 
new soil, of course, and place them on the border. You will get 
quite as heavy crops ; at least, you will not be troubled with flowers 
falling. To prevent the further falling of your flowers we strongly 
advise you to give more air on warm days, leaving a little on also 
at night, and if possible have a little warmth in the hot water pipes 
at night. 



156 GARDENING DIFFICULTIES SOLVED 

The Tomato Disease 

Q. Please enlighten me as to the cause of these large black 
patches on my Tomatoes, which are greatly disfigured ]—8. T. 11'., 
Ridimonil. 

A. Your Tomatoes have got the Tomato disease. It is the same 
thing as the Potato disease (Peronospora infestans). Pluck off and 
burn all the infested fruit ; they are not fit for consumption. How 
the disease has come to attack your plants is difficult to tell, but 
we think the plants are too close together, or they have been allowed 
to become overcrowded with leafage, making it imiiossible for much 
air and light to permeate amongst the plants. Keeping the plants 
too wet at the root, and the atmosphere too damp, tends to bring on 
the disease. You should thin out the laterals and also some of the 
leaves to let in more light and air amongst the plants. Yentilate 
freely in warm weather, and on cold, wet days and nights you had 
better have a little heat in the hot water pipes, always with a little 
air on. If the disease has attacked the stems or leaves have the 
diseased parts dressed with flowers of sulphur. 

Earthing Up Potatoes 

y. How and when .should Potatoes be earthed up^ — Gratej'ul, 
Exeter. 

A. To cover the young growing tops with a large bulk of soil, 
as obtains in some gardens, is decidedly a mistake, for in so doing 
many shoots get badly broken or knocked ofl^, consequently the 
growth is checked, and the crop suffers. I like to earth up our 
Potatoes twice during the season. First, by gently drawing a little 
soil to them when a few inches above ground, and again three weeks 
later. Previous to the latter earthing we go over the whole plot 
and remove all superfluous growths from each root, leaving only 
the two strongest ; at the same time a dressing of soot or wood ash 
is given. This during the earthing becomes incorporated with the 
soil, and has a wonderful influence on the foliage and the crop. 



LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS 



Apple tree, espalier 
Apples, three good 



I'AGE 

121 
125 



Begonia, ornamental-le.ived . 84 
Bulbs, potting . . 104, 105, 106 

Carnation Elizabeth Shil^ner . 45 
Carnations, cuttings of perpetual 

flowering . . 40, 41, 43 

Chrysanthemum buds, taking . 101 

„ cuttings . 99, 100 

„ Maggie . , 91! 

White St. Croutts 98 
Fronf. 
108 
74 
. 6S 



Clematis, mountain . 
Crocus Sir Walter Scott 
Crocuses in the grass . 
Cyclamen, hardy 

DafiEodil Sir Watkin . 
DahKas, Paeony flowered 
Delphinium Bella Donna 

Forget-me-not dell, a . 



107 

71 

. 57 

. 60 

Gloxinias . . . . 85 

Grapes in amateur's greenhouse . Ill 

„ , thinning . . .115 

Hydrangea plants, well grown 81 

Irish garden, an . 59 

Lily, golden-rayed . . 87 



I'AiiE 

Melon flowers, fertilising . 138 

,, shoots and flowers . 137 

Pansies, cuttings of • 80 

tufted . . 73 

Pear Durondeau . 131 

Pears, pruning . . 129 

Primulas, hardy . 75 

Pruning Roses 4, 5, 6, 8, 9, 10 

Rhododendron Lord Palmerston . 145 
Rose Betty, 20; Conrad F. Meyer, 21 ; 
cuttings, 31, 32; Dorothy Per- 
kins, 13; Lady Gay, 17; Mme. 
D'Arblay, 19; Mrs. Sophia Neate, 
25 ; Reve d'Or . 7 

Roses, crimson, 22 ; in pots, 34, 35, 
36 ; pink, 29 ; pruning, 4 ; red 
and yellow, 3 ; standard . 15 

Spiraea, a handsome 147 

Spring flowers . 61 

Standard Roses . . . 15 

Sweet Pea plant from one seed 50 

Sweet Pens, well grown 51 

TroUius, or Globe Flowers . . 67 

Vine border, making . 112 

Vines, planting, 113 ; side shoots 

o£ 114 



Wall in suburban garden . 



69 



157 



INDEX 



American blight on Apple treos, 122 

Anemones, 78 

Aphis on Plum tree, 127 

Apple tree, transplanting. 122; trc<:'H, 

American blight on, 122 
Apples, late keeping. 135 
Asparagus, 151; bed, forming, 155 
Aster, a common disease of, 65 



B 

Bank, plants for, 74 

Basic slag for Roses, 50 

Beds, preparing for Carnations, 44 

Begonia Gloire de Lorraine, 88 

Blackberries for the garden, 133 

Black Currant mite, 131 

Border, hardy flowers for sunny, 75; 
plants for dry, 62; shady, 62 

Briar stocks, preparing. 14 

Brick paths, making, 58 

Bulbs, early flowering, 77; for ex- 
hibition. 103; Gladiolus, 108; 
Lily, 106 ; newly potted, treat- 
ment of, 94 



Calceolarias during winter, 82 

Cardoons. 149 

Carnation attacked by celworm. 46 

Carnations, border from cuttings, 
45; diseases that attack, 47; for 
exhibition. 70; fragrant, 46; per- 
petual flowering, 39, 41, 44; pre- 
paring beds for, 44; winter, 42 

Carrot fly. the. 154 

Chrysanthemum cuttings, taking, 
95; rust, how to cure, 99 

Chrysanthemums, artificial manure 
for, 101; for blooming in Novem- 
ber aiid December, 95; how to 
grow. 97; outdoor in winter, 102; 
stopping. 97 



Cinerarias during winter, 82 

Clematis, pruning, 144 

Climbers, self clinging, 140; climb- 
ing Roses, fragrant, 26 

Club in vegetables, 150 

Cucumbers, growing, 156 

Currants, Red. aphides on. 131 

Cuttings, border Carnations from, 
45; of Gooseberries and Cur- 
rants, 136 

Cherry. Morello, 134 



Bahlias for exhibition, 70; forty 

best. 71 
Disease, a common, of Aster, 65 
Diseased Vine leaves, 119 
Diseases that attack Carnation.-;, 47 



Eelworm, Carnation attacked by. 46 
Evergreen shrubs, 146 
Evergreens, for hedge, 144; raiding 
stock of, 148 



Fence, plants for. 141 

Fern, fronds turning white, 79; 

Maidenhair, in winter, SO 
Filberts, gathering, 132 
Forest trees, sowing seeds of. 148 
Fruit trees, for sandy soil. 135; 

gumming in, 127; mulching 

young, 128 
Fuchsias, 82; in winter, 89 



Garden frame, making mo.*t of. 76 
Geranium, cuttings, t-akiug, 89; the 

best bedding. 68 
Geraniums for winter flowering, 86 
Gladioli, lifting, 70; not flowering, 

103 



l.VS 



INDEX 



159 



Gladiolus bulbs. 108 
Gloxinia infested by rust, 87 
Gooseberries, cordon, 128; pruning, 

126 
Grafted Apple trees dying:, 122 
Grape (Foster's Seedling), spotted, 
116; growing in greenhouses, 110 
Grapes, Muscat, rust on, 119; ripen- 
ing, treatment of, 117; scalded, 
115, 117; shrivelling before ripe, 
116 
Greenfly in conservatory, 79, 88 
Greenhouse, Grape-growing in a, 
110; greenfly in, 79; heated, 
climbing Roses for, 33; heating 
apparatus for small, 80; in win- 
ter, plants for, 90; unhealed, 
Climbing roses for, 33; ven- 
tilating, 83 
Ground, preparing, for Sweet Peas, 
49 

H 

Heating apparatus for small green- 
house, 80 

Hedge, evergreens for, 144; plants 
for, 143 

Holly, transplanting, 146 

Hydrangeas not flowering, 81 



1 



Ivy, pruning, 144 



Jessamine, pruning white, 76 



Kainit for Roses, 30 



Lawn, improving, 56, 57; renovating 
the, 55; seed, quantity of, to sow, 
54; top dressing a, 56; weeds on, 
54 

Lilies, diseased, 106; in pots, 108 

Lily bulbs, 106; of the VaHey, 
forcing, 91; Tiger, increasing, 
104 

Loganberry, 130 

M 
Maidenhair Fern in winter, 80 



Manure, artificial, for Chrysanthe- 
mums, 101; Clay's, 36. 52, 102; 
for Strawberries, 136; pig, for 
Sweet Peas, 48, 53 
Manures, artificial, for Roses, 28 
Marguerite leaves ruined by insect, 

86 
Marguerites suddenly withering, 92 
Medlars, keeping, 132 
Melon flowers, fertilising, 137 
Mildew, spraying roses for. 33 
Mint during winter, 155 
Montbretias not flowering, 77 
Moss on paths, to destroy, 70 ; on 

walks, 56 
Mulching young fruit trees, 128 



N 

Nasturtium, Flame, 68 
Nectarines shrivelling, 136; splitting, 
125, 139 



Onions, saving seed of, 151 
Orchids, treatment of, 90 



Pansies, failure with, 72 

Paths, making brick, 58 

Pea mould. Sweet Peas killed by, 52 

Peach leaf blister, 125 

Peaches, stringy, 136 

Pear, scab on, 122; cankered, 123; 

pruning, 126 
Pears, gathering, 130; greenhouse, 

falling while small, 124 
Perennials, staking, 68 
Pergola, Roses for, 24 
Planting trees, 142 
Plum (Myrobella), hedge, trimming, 

126; tree, aphis on, 127 
Pond, making a small, 64 
Potatoes, black scab in, 153; liming 

ground for, 151 
Pots. Sweet Peas in, 50 
Pruning. Clematis. 144; forcrft trees. 

148; Gooseberry bushes. 126; Ivy, 

144; Pear trees. 126; Roses. 4; 

Vines. 110 ; White Jessamine. 76 
Pansy cuttings, keeping through 

winter. 82 



160 



INDEX 



Raspberries, replanting, 132 ; un- 
satisfactory, 129 

Red Currants, aphides on, 131 

Red spider on Vines. 118 

Rhubarb, forcing. 152 

Root pruning, 134 

Rose of Jericho, 94 

Roses, artificial manure for, 28 ; 
basic slag and iainit, 30; bush, 
in pots, 36; Christmas, 34; climb- 
ing, for greenhouse, 33; for cold 
garden, 16; exhibition, 12; forc- 
ing, 37; hedge, 12; heavy clay 
soil, 18; north wall, 11, 25; per- 
gola, 24; shady wall, 11; sub- 
urban garden, 18 ; fragrant 
climbing, 26; from cuttings, 30; 
how to plant, 1; Hybrid Per- 
petual, 23; Hybrid Tea, 23; half 
standards, 16; preparing Briar 
stocks, 14; pruning, 4; Rambling, 
8 ; selection of standard, 15 ; 
spraying for mildew, 33; soil for 
potting. 34 ; Sweet Briar for 
hedge, 2; sweet scented, 20; that 
do not droop. 11 ; time to plant, 1 

RuHt, Chrysanthemum, how to cure, 
99; on Muscat Grapes, 119 



Shrubs, berried, for wall, 68; ever- 
green, beneath trees, 141; for 
north border. 141 ; flowering. 140 

Soil for potting Roses, 34 

Staking perennials, 68 

Strawberries, manure for, 136 ; un- 
fruitful, 129 



Sweet Pea buds falling, 49 

Sweet Peas in pots, 50; killed by 

Pea mould, 52; manure for. 48; 

pig manure for, 53; preparing 

ground for, 49; selection of. 48; 

stopping. 49 



Tomato, disease, 156; fruits not set- 
ting. 155 
Trees, planting, lf2 



Vegetable marrows failing. 150 
A^'egetables, storing, 149; useful win- 
ter, 152 
Vine, borders, top dressing. 116; 

leaves, diseased, 119; treatment 

of, 118 
Vines, neglected in greenhouse, 117; 

not fruiting, 114; pruning, 110; 

red spider on, 118; treatment of. 

during summer, 113 
Violets, how to grow, 60; in frame 

in winter. 60 



W 

Wallflowers not a suoti'ss, 66 
Walnuts, how to keep, 133 
Wall, plants for warm. 62 
Weed killer, when to put down. 57 
Weeds on lawn, 54 
Woodlice, how t-o get rid of. 88, 109 
Worms on lawn, how to destroy. 54, 
58 



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